Rolex transitional Sub

Charlie Mike

Charlie Mike

Sober since 1-7-14 (still a Paranoid Nutjob)
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Nov 1, 2000
Messages
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I just popped the bracelet on my Sub and was surprised to say the least. I thought it was one of the first of the 16610 but it is a 168000. If anyone has more information on this (value?), please chime in.
 
A true 168000 will have greater value than a 16610 (assuming equal condition) simply because the 168000s were produced in far fewer numbers. The 16610 was in production for over a decade, whereas the 168000 was only offered for about nine months in 1988 and 1989.

Note, however, that I said "true" 168000. The model that preceded the 168000 was the 16800, which, like the 16610, was also in full production for a decade. Because the 168000 is so rare, relatively speaking, compared to these other two models, there have been countless instances of unscrupulous dealers taking older 16800s and stamping an extra "0" on the case in an attempt to increase their value. I'm not sure who I would trust other than an authorized Rolex repair facility to determine the authenticity of your watch. Once that's accomplished and you know precisely which model you have, Bernard Watch Co. is a pretty good resource for determining its value on the used market.

www.bernardwatch.com
 
Just took these...

Reference #
IMAG0230_zpse93c8d47.jpg


Serial #

IMAG0231_zps06d89452.jpg
 
AFAIK, the only difference between the 16800 and 168000 is in the case steel - the 168000 being the first model to incorporate the newer, more corrosion resistant 904L steel. Thus there's no other visual cues to tell them apart just by looking. Perhaps Rolex or someone on a Rolex forum would be able to tell you which model you have based on the serial number of your watch.

I do notice in your photo that the "168000" doesn't look to be perfectly centered in the space between the lugs in the way that the "ORIG ROLEX DESIGN" engraving appears to be. The "168000" is slightly offset to the right. However, without that last "0", a marking of "16800" would be centered as well as the other text. This is total speculation on my part and hopefully I'm wrong, but this could be an indication that 16800 was, in fact, the original model number and that the last 0 was added on later.
 
I've checked pics on TRF and it looks legit. Besides, it would still be offset if it were 16800.
 
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