rolled most of the edge on my Manix

K

kbog

Joined
Apr 11, 2004
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540
Took my Manix out to cut some cardboard and it simply could not cut it. I was stunned. When I looked at the edge, I quickly noticed that almost the ENTIRE edge had rolled. Only about 1/2 inch from the hilt and about 3/4 inches at the tip had remained.

I have never seen an edge do this. I think I must have done it when I cut a large rather woody weed the other day. I cut the stem at ground level and maybe I sliced a rock or something.

Anyhow, the edge was so perfectly rolled over that it formed a large perfect burr on one side. I used my sharpmaker to get a "version" of the old edge back, but let me tell you I cannot get the knife to nearly the same level as it came for that portion of the blade. This is really the only knife I have where I have trouble sharpening it (my only s30V blade). With this new problem, I feel beaten.

Any opinions on what I should do? I'm toying with asking Spyderco to resharpen it for me. Is there another way to get the edge back that I am unaware of? Do I just need to spend a night grinding away and this knife on the sharpmaker?

Thanks.
 
I would contact Spyderco sounds like a failed heat treat, rolled edge and impossible to sharpen with normal methods.
 
I keep thinking that, but the knife is over a year old and has not let me down yet. I suppose it cant hurt to just call and talk to them.

Thanks for the reply.
 
If the edge was badly impacted off a rock then it is likely you will need to remove a large amount of metal to restore it. I would take a benchstone and regrind the edge. If you do not have one available then use the flats of the medium rods, but it is going to take a long time as in maybe a half an hour or more. A cheap hardware x-coarse stone will do this in a few minutes.

-Cliff
 
I mangled the edge of my Al Mar Shrike through aggressive gardening an an unfortunate experiment with a kitchen sharpener designed to leave an almost serrated edge. I restored it on a sharpmaker. I wrapped the sharpmaker sticks with 100 grit sandpaper to remove 90% of the metal, then the coarse and fine sticks to finish the job. You might try that if the sharpmaker sticks are taking too long.
 
The easiest way to get it sharp is to send it in to Spyderco.
The quickest way is to reprofile it yourself. I use a DMT coarse diamond bench hone for the purpose myself. I use my knives hard at work, and I've seen that sort of thing happen many times. My best results have come from removing all the fatigued (rolled) steel.
That can take a really long time on the Sharpmaker, as it is not intended for hogging off steel.
 
yablanowitz said:
The easiest way to get it sharp is to send it in to Spyderco.
The quickest way is to reprofile it yourself. I use a DMT coarse diamond bench hone for the purpose myself. I use my knives hard at work, and I've seen that sort of thing happen many times. My best results have come from removing all the fatigued (rolled) steel.
That can take a really long time on the Sharpmaker, as it is not intended for hogging off steel.
Click to expand...
Right on the money brother.:thumbup:
 
moving-van.jpg
 
I would definitely try wrapping the Sharpmaker rods in 100 or 220 grit sandpaper. That works pretty well, but if you want to do the work even faster, follow Cliff's advice and go to a hardware store and pick up a coarse benchstone.

I picked one up from Home Depot for $5.
 
Great ideas folks. I think I will try some of the suggestions before I call Spyderco. I would imagine this can happen again in the future and I would like to know how to deal with it.

I have the sandpaper, perhaps I will try that first. If not then the benchstone...

Thanks for the move Cougar.
 
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