I have a Maddog LabRat and was using it to cut chicken on a glass cutting board. Noticed not too long ago that the edge is slightly rolled towards the tip (where it begins to curve up into the tip). Not sure if it was the cutting board that did it but I've been trying for some time now to get the roll out of the edge. I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker set on the standard 40 degrees. I've sharpened it and sharpened it and nothing is working. The edge is still slightly rolled. Do I just need to sharpen it more to get the edge back? Thanks!
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Rolled my knife edge! Help!
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Do this:
Put the white stones in your Sharpmaker with the corners facing in (what, step 3?). Instead of starting at the top of the stone, start at the bottom, and pull the knife back toward you, and up the stone-reverse of sharpening. Basically, you have just steeled the edge, though you may have to use more force than when sharpening, depending on how badly the edge is rolled.
Same principle with using the spine of another knife, or a steel, but that seemed alot easier to illustrate
Put the white stones in your Sharpmaker with the corners facing in (what, step 3?). Instead of starting at the top of the stone, start at the bottom, and pull the knife back toward you, and up the stone-reverse of sharpening. Basically, you have just steeled the edge, though you may have to use more force than when sharpening, depending on how badly the edge is rolled.
Same principle with using the spine of another knife, or a steel, but that seemed alot easier to illustrate
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Just wanted to add that most of the time when your knife gets "dull", the edge may just be slightly misaligned, and that same reverse stroke (strop) on the Sharpmaker stones will push it back into alignment, and make touching up the edge much easier.
Most of the time, my touchups involve pulling the knife along the corner of the white stones one time, followed by a couple of strokes, and...done.
Last night at work, the knife I was using got "dull", and would no longer shave or cleanly slice paper along its length. I steeled it on the spine of my other knife, and it was back to shaving hair, and pushcutting paper.
I think steeling will make sharpening much easier, and prolong the life of your blade, since you don't have to remove a bunch of metal to regain your edge.
btw, welcome to the forums
Most of the time, my touchups involve pulling the knife along the corner of the white stones one time, followed by a couple of strokes, and...done.
Last night at work, the knife I was using got "dull", and would no longer shave or cleanly slice paper along its length. I steeled it on the spine of my other knife, and it was back to shaving hair, and pushcutting paper.
I think steeling will make sharpening much easier, and prolong the life of your blade, since you don't have to remove a bunch of metal to regain your edge.
btw, welcome to the forums
Cliff Stamp
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If the edge on the knife is more obtuse than the Sharpmaker setting, which is likely, then it will take a long time before anything happens as you are not working the edge at all. Does the rest of the blade get sharp when you hone it on the Sharpmaker? If not then you need to either adjust the honing angle until it matches and the blade starts to sharpen, or keep honing at that angle until the edge starts to get sharp (this could take a long time, like an hour or so).
A glass cutting board likely didn't roll the edge, but instead just mashed it straight in as glass is much harder than steel. In such cases it often isn't possible to restore the edge by steeling as that only works if the edge was bent to one side or the other. This can usually be felt with your finger, and just seen in most cases. You can try steeling as Owen described to see if it will help in any case, the worst it will do is nothing. However if you have already honed on the Sharpmaker, any rolled steel has been cut off unless as noted the angles didn't match.
Personally, I would just sharpen as needed and let the dented/rolled section come back to full in time. It would be a large waste of steel to hone all the edge back to get the damaged area back to optimal.
-Cliff
A glass cutting board likely didn't roll the edge, but instead just mashed it straight in as glass is much harder than steel. In such cases it often isn't possible to restore the edge by steeling as that only works if the edge was bent to one side or the other. This can usually be felt with your finger, and just seen in most cases. You can try steeling as Owen described to see if it will help in any case, the worst it will do is nothing. However if you have already honed on the Sharpmaker, any rolled steel has been cut off unless as noted the angles didn't match.
Personally, I would just sharpen as needed and let the dented/rolled section come back to full in time. It would be a large waste of steel to hone all the edge back to get the damaged area back to optimal.
-Cliff
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I have always had the job of keeping one of my daughter-in-law's kitchen knives sharpened. Several months ago she started complaining about her knives getting dull quicker than usual. I asked her if she had been using the knives on something different than she had been using them on, and she said no. This went on for 3 or 4 months and the blades were terrible to resharpen. To make a long story short, I found out that a relative had given her a glass cutting board. This is what was causing her problems.
Matteo Escobar
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It's been my experience that glass cutting boards are more dangerous than wooden ones. When cutting on a glass board the knife tends to slide when it hits the surface, as opposed to biting into a wooden one. This sliding reduces overall control of the blade, and increases accidental cuts.
Yeah, the glass cutting board sounded like such a cool idea when my sister suggested it but now I'm definetly going to get rid of it! I HATE cutting on it as my knife does tend to slide around and the noise it makes is unbearble. Didn't know that glass was harder than steel but it makes sense now that I think about it. Thanks again everyone!
PS: So Mr. Cliff Stamp, if I understand you right I haven't done any permanent damage to my LabRat and the edge will be restored back to normal over time? Also, to answer your question, the rest of the knife is being sharpened when I run it through the Sharpmaker.
PS: So Mr. Cliff Stamp, if I understand you right I haven't done any permanent damage to my LabRat and the edge will be restored back to normal over time? Also, to answer your question, the rest of the knife is being sharpened when I run it through the Sharpmaker.
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Or a serving platter, but a good old wooden chopping board, or one of those ultra cheap polyethylene ones are much better on knives. The ceramic rods are not aggressive enough to re-do an edge but the diamond hones are. On a kitchen knife, I wouldn't even need to go past a medium or fine EZELAP diamond hone, you just don't need a super-shaving edge, a slightly ragged toothy edge works great for the kitchen. For those who use a grinder, straight off the grinder +/- aligning the "teeth" with a steel.
Once the edge actually goes blunt, or has a flat spot, its generally quite difficult to steel it back into shape. Ironically, the cheaper honing steels with the coarse grooves running lengthwise, are actually quite good at cutting a new edge bevel. (This is opposite to the original philosophy of steeling, which was to keep the edge aligned and not to remove steel, thus prolonging the life of your knife.)
Cheers. Jason.
Once the edge actually goes blunt, or has a flat spot, its generally quite difficult to steel it back into shape. Ironically, the cheaper honing steels with the coarse grooves running lengthwise, are actually quite good at cutting a new edge bevel. (This is opposite to the original philosophy of steeling, which was to keep the edge aligned and not to remove steel, thus prolonging the life of your knife.)
Cheers. Jason.
Cliff Stamp
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[he rest of the knife is sharpened fine]
Exactly. You will note that the imperfect spot will get reduced in size with each sharpening. You would generally only go to the effort of grinding such damage out if it was very large and significantly effected cutting ability, or if the knife was very cheap and you didn't care about using it up.
-Cliff
[he rest of the knife is sharpened fine]
Exactly. You will note that the imperfect spot will get reduced in size with each sharpening. You would generally only go to the effort of grinding such damage out if it was very large and significantly effected cutting ability, or if the knife was very cheap and you didn't care about using it up.
-Cliff