Rotary platen opinions from owners and users

Sam Salvati

Sam Salvati

Joined
Aug 6, 2007
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I'm looking to get one of these, interested in opinions from owners and users. At what point do you use it? Roughing? Finish grinding? What grits? Please show some photos of grinds done with yours.
 
I picked one up earlier this year and absolutely love it. I pretty much specialize in Japanese style kitchen blades and it's a great fit.
It makes convex grinding a pleasure. I think there is a lot to learn about using it. There are many ways to affect the grind on the belt. Tension of belt, span of belt, where you hold, angle you hold at, and pressure applied all come into play.
I usually do my first very rough grind on a flat steel platen, then move over to the belt to refine and finish. You can get a belt finish off of it, no problem. You just have to be very mindful at the tip and choil as it is easy to get thin there.

I've thought about starting a thread on rotary platen technique. Maybe this is it. :)
I really like using it and consider it one of the best tools I've added to my shop.
 
Like Brock, I do my convex grinds on my Beaumont rotary platen. I also like it for doing handles.

Only caveat is that the bearings have a shorter life than you might expect.

Use with caution around the rubber platen belt and rollers. That is a pinch point that will mangle a finger.
 
it's a must have, excellent for handles,
even better when you splice a belt and use it as a 1" wide or less
 
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Is the primary purpose to have more support than slack belt alone? I imagine it helps with J weight belts quite a bit.
 
I've been using one for 11 years. Best thing to ever happen for grinding convex grinds.
Scott
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Like Brock, I do my convex grinds on my Beaumont rotary platen. I also like it for doing handles.

Only caveat is that the bearings have a shorter life than you might expect.

Use with caution around the rubber platen belt and rollers. That is a pinch point that will mangle a finger.
Click to expand...

YES! I got my finger caught in the rotary platen last year. Caught between the roller and belt. Pushed the rubber belt off half way. Lucky I didn't loose my finger.
Scott
 
kuraki said:
Is the primary purpose to have more support than slack belt alone? I imagine it helps with J weight belts quite a bit.
Click to expand...

I think the benefit is much greater as there are several lengths of slack to mess with, with differing support. It also keeps it more even across the two inch width of the belt.
It is not much like grinding on a free slack belt. It's like having a soft platen behind the belt.
 
Brock47 said:
I think the benefit is much greater as there are several lengths of slack to mess with, with differing support. It also keeps it more even across the two inch width of the belt.
It is not much like grinding on a free slack belt. It's like having a soft platen behind the belt.
Click to expand...

I see. Thank you, that does sound beneficial.
 
I use mine to shape where the guard fits against the handle. On a wood handle without the rotary platen, the belt has a tendency to cut in the wood more than the guard. This causes a dip where the handle fits against the guard. With the rotary platen, I get a nice even finish where the guard meets the handle.
 
Good for convexing, setting edges, etc, Great for handles. Basically, many of the things that you might be tempted to do with a slack belt, the rotary platen will do better.
 
HSC /// said:
it's a must have, excellent for handles,
even better when you splice a belt and use it as a 1" wide or less
Click to expand...

This post kind of confuses me.. Wouldn't that be dangerous to have an inch of the rubber belt exposed while only using half of it's width with a 1" split belt?

It makes me think of grinding on a 2" wide contact wheel with only a 1" belt. :confused:

....Or do you have multiple rubber backing belts for your rotary platen, that you have split to match the narrower belt widths?
**If not, can you buy extra rubber belts (platens) for this purpose? ** :thumbup:

~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
It hasn't been dangerous for me. I haven't done it much really.

I don't have multiple backing belts myself. But good idea. Yes u can buy replacement rubber belts and you could cut them to size if you wanted.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Tom Lewis said:
I use mine to shape where the guard fits against the handle. On a wood handle without the rotary platen, the belt has a tendency to cut in the wood more than the guard. This causes a dip where the handle fits against the guard. With the rotary platen, I get a nice even finish where the guard meets the handle.
Click to expand...

Tom, I bought the rotary platen and had it for a whole year before I found a good use for it and then I was watching a video by Nick wheeler where he was using his to grind the guard on a fighter and I saw that the platen did not flex and cut into the wood and now I use the rotary platen for the same reason as you. I used it yesterday to round over some bolsters without grinding down the scales on my latest hunter. I do not make convex grinds because I like hollow grinds but for shaping bolsters, guards, and my scales it is wonderful. Larry
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According the Jerry Fisk, one great benefit of the rotary platen is that it will allow you to grind handle pins dead flush very time with no "gouging" issues with the handle material.
 
I use mine all the time. On every knife, in fact. We do the initial grinding, the pre heat treat stuff with a flat platen. Then after HT I switch to convex and the rotary platen. I don't do metal guards, and so don't use it for handle shaping. I personally don't like using J weight belts with it. They tend to warp and not quite sit flat on the machine. Especially the ones that have curled up waiting to be used. Though, if you only slightly tighten the spring and spray the back of the j weight belts with water, they will conform to the platen once they warm up.
 
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