Rounded the tip on my brand new gayle Bradley :(

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So I'm in the states for the week and got a gayle Bradley folder. Didnt have my stones here so i made the mistake of making a few passes on my dads worksharp. Bad idea. In just a few passes I managed to round the tip pretty significantly. Whatever, lesson learned. Just want some advice on how to re establish the tip once I get home. I suppose slowly and meticulously with a course diamond stone is my best bet? Any advice welcome.

Thanks,

Lance
 
So I'm in the states for the week and got a gayle Bradley folder. Didnt have my stones here so i made the mistake of making a few passes on my dads worksharp. Bad idea. In just a few passes I managed to round the tip pretty significantly. Whatever, lesson learned. Just want some advice on how to re establish the tip once I get home. I suppose slowly and meticulously with a course diamond stone is my best bet? Any advice welcome.

Thanks,

Lance
how much tip was removed? the GB is a drop-point design so putting a pointy tip on it shouldn't be too hard. but better have an expert do it if you're not confident with power tools.
 
For tip correction, I would start with Fine or Extra Fine diamond. 1. there is less metal at the tip. 2. unwanted scratches are easier to remove.

Pic?
 
Just want some advice on how to re establish the tip once I get home. I suppose slowly and meticulously with a course diamond stone is my best bet? Any advice welcome.

Thanks,

Lance

Silicon carbide paper on a hard, flat surface.
I've put new tips on many a knife for more than one person that way.
Take most of the steel from the spine; sometimes you have to go from the edge side as well, but then you have to re-edge that area.
 
You could fix the tip on the Worksharp in seconds.
Remove the guide and free hand it at the top of the belt near the upper wheel where there is no flex.
Have someone hold it down for you to keep it from moving.
 
You could fix the tip on the Worksharp in seconds.
Remove the guide and free hand it at the top of the belt near the upper wheel where there is no flex.
Have someone hold it down for you to keep it from moving.

I was considering that. Would you do the edge side? Was thinking about straight grinding to re establish the tip then regrinding the bevel. What do u guys think?

49AED3CC-283B-491B-81AB-B16F904B0840-1625-000001A2C3839E4B_zpsa843ccb0.jpg
 
From your picture, it seems the tip-spine is still quite below handle when closed, I'd bring the edge up, i.e. grind the edge flat to form the tip, then resharpen it. You might feel bad grinding the edge flat :eek:, but it's the easiest to form the shape first, then resharpen.



Otherwise bring the spine down, or combination of both spine & edge.
 
It doesn't look too bad at all from here.
I would stick with the bevel. Hold the blade up to the belt with the machine off, go through the motions and do a few dry runs until you have the angle.
Two well placed passes with the red belt and your done. You can remove the burr later by hand if you don't want to risk the Blue belt, they are super flexible.
I have put some menacing tips on blades with the Worksharp.
If your not comfortable do it manually as suggested above.
Good Luck
 
Unless you really want or need the tip I'd just sharpen as usual and slowly work the edge a little bit more an inch and a quarter or so from the tip.

Most knives I'd just go about 2" from the tip and work the spine down, less sharpening, fast work.
 
Spent about 10 minutes on the work sharp and got it 90% done. (Probably mde it way more work than i had to, but i was trying to go slow) I'm gonna wait til I get home and finish it on my diamond stones.

Thanks for the suggestions!
 
Op, did you put a forced patina on the Bradley? If so, how did you do it. Nice job with the re tip by the way.
 
Good job. :)

The tip didn't look too bad to me. I'd have just left it be, but you did a good job.

On a side note, those pics make me want to remove the Cerakote on my Contego in a big way!
 
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