Rounded tips with the 204 Sharpmaker

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Dec 20, 2001
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I have noticed that occaisionally, and with time (repeated) sharpening the 204 sharpmaker produces a rounded tip on many blades. A gentleman writing from England posted a thread in the CRK forum expressing concern over this problem while sharpening his Sebenza. Is there anyway to avoid this? Once it occurs how can it be "fixed" without sending the blade back to the maker or a professional sharpener? Will the diamond rods alleviate this?
 
In order to avoid rounded tips you must finish your sharpening stroke while the tip is still on the flats of the hone rather than dragging it off. In other words, don't abrade the very point of the tip on the hone.

To re-establish a pointy tip you'd have to grind the tip until the desired profile was created.

As with anything, it comes down to patience and learning good technique.

Stick with it.
 
I only use the flats (not the edges) near the tip. And I NEVER let the tip slide off, as Blues says.

I think this idea came from Sal.
 
Good advice.
I have been reprofiling the secondary edge (towards the tip) of my tanto-bladed BM Stryker on and off. Sometimes I have spent an hour at a time on that edge. When I use the corners of the stones I never go to the tip. I mostly use the flats, and stop the stroke with the tip still on the flat part. The tip on this knife is still needle-sharp and has not rounded off in the least. Same with one of my Enduras, Emerson CQC7A, Buck Odyssey, etc.

Jim
 
As everyone is saying, the points dull when you press too hard on the corners of the rods and the point goes skidding down the side after each stroke. This won't happen when you use the flats and you are more mindful of what you're doing. Don't press too hard either!
 
I just bought a 204 and decided to investigate this problem. I am not an expert with this piece of equipment and don't pretend to be either.

I have been sharpening knives freehand for many years and a similar problem can exist on a stone. The basic problem has been highlighted by some of the other guys who are obviously very knowledgable. My opinion is as follows and it is only my opinion, please don't jump down my throat if you think I am wrong. I would welcome thoughts and contructive criticism.

As you draw the blade across the stone the pressure is fairly even as is the angle of contact. Unfortunately as you reach the tip, the pressure causes the blade to flex thus changing the pressure and ultimately the angle of contact. If you watch Sal in his video he shows this clearly and demontrates how to deal with this problem. It doesn't happen as much on thicker blades because the amount of twist is reduced.

I spent 4 hours solid testing this on the 204 and I reckon you should do the following two things.

1. On a flexible knife like a filleting knife use slow and precise strokes on the edges of the stones only. Leave the tip of the knife until last.
2. Swap the stones to the flats (as pointed out already) and slowly and precisely sharpen the tip on the flats ENSURING that the tip doesn't "flick" of the stone.

I did this on many knives and once you get the hang of it the results are very good. Like I said I am not in the same league as some of you guys but I hope this helps.

Regards to all

Dave
 
I have had the "rounding-tips-off" problem with my sharpmaker since I got it. I appreciate very much your ideas about how to avoid this. Thanks guys!

Jeff/1911.
 
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