Rounding or radiusing finger side of a guard?

PIndelicato

PIndelicato

Joined
Sep 16, 2002
Messages
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I'm trying to finally finish up a hidden-tang forged blade that's been haunting and taunting me for a LOOONG time, and I can't seem to figure out a good way to round or radius the finger side of the guard. I've tried slack belting on the grinder and shoe-shining by hand with 180x shop roll, but neither of those methods seem to be working very well, so I figure I'm going about it the wrong way. Is there a technique for this seemingly simple step that anyone can share?

Thanks for any tips!
 
I assume that's how you shape the guard, Patrice? I've got it shaped about where I want it, but I can't figure out how to make the finger-side surface rounded/radiused/convex in shape. Not sure if my question even makes sense?
 
You're wanting to form a convex surface on a concave curve -- the round and half round files are how to form that.
 
Not sure I understand. Are you talking about the edges of the rounded part? I do ALL the shaping like I said before.
Sorry I can't be more help.
 
The 6th photo in this post from the Epic Wheeler's Steel thread shows the rounded or radiused finger-side surface of the guard I'm asking about (the polished area in the photo.) http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...he-Adventure-Continues!?p=9597145#post9597145

When I rough shaped the guard using a file or dremel or small wheel, the inside of the resulting concave surface was flat, not radiused like what is shown in the photo above. Shoe-shining or slack belting seems like the right idea, but it cuts the wood too fast (and the guard not fast enough.)

Looking for a suitable photo to demonstrate my question reminds me that the information I'm seeking might be contained within that fine thread, so I'll go back and re-read it again now.
 
I do the rough shaping with a sanding drum and continue with files and paper wrapped around dowels, etc like the other guys said, to blend the flat "facets" left by the drum into a smooth curvy surface. Don't over-think it :)
 
I am sure you'll find the answer you are looking for in that thread.
And as to the wood/metal shaping challenge, just make take-downs and you won't have to worry about it. ;)
 
Rather than filing straight back and forth, once you have your basic shape, you have to use your round or 1/2 round file to round out the corners in the front of the guard. Start by knocking the edges off of either side of the flat curve you've created, and then gradually facet the guard to rough-in your radius. Then smooth it up by rocking the file over the radius as you move it, moving to sand paper later on.

Or do as I do and be displeased with the guard results of an otherwise great knife and turn it into your shop knife. One day I'll knock the handle off and take another go, but shaping guards definitely takes some practice and skill. It's something I'd like to try again when I get back in the shop.

==nathan
 
I think the problem is you never got that handle work fixture from me! ;) LMAO :D

Not to derail anything here, but I never got a reply back from you on that Paul, but I did find one out under the welding table (just FYI). :)
 
To be clear, are you talking about radiused perpendicular to the blade as in a cross sectional view, not parallel to the blade like a side view? If so, just run your half round files over the edges to round it out.


-Xander
 
OK, I guess there isn't a simple solution (other than making take downs!) I guess I'll give the filing a try...thanks for all the replies!

Nathan, I think I forged this blade about 2.5 years ago. 2 or 3 failed attempts at cutting a good guard slot caused me to set it aside for probably a year at least, then a friend milled a nice starting slot for me, which I once again managed to file out to a fit I wasn't happy with, then...you get the picture, I'm sure :)

Nick, I didn't get the message from you that you found one...I thought my PM and email messages weren't making it through to you!!! I definitely want that fixture...what's the best way to reach you about it?

Xander, I'm not sure I'm following your question, but I think I understand your solution anyways and seems to fit what everyone has recommended. I'll try it.
 
Paul, I've run into similar issues myself - polishing the guard / handle juncture with slack sandpaper can create a dip as the handle material is removed much more quickly than the guard material. To remedy this situation I typically use dowels, but I've also made special sanding blocks out of micarta for this very operation. I simply grind the block to shape so that it matches the interior profile of the guard / handle junction. I've found this to work quite well, and I've reused the block on several knives by simply re-profiling it slightly to meet the dimensions of each knife I've used it on.

Hope this helps
 
I do the bulk of the work on guards with a small half-round file. Then I chuck up a short piece of round rod in a hand held drill and tape sandpaper to it. I use progressively finer grits of paper with the drill set up to about 400 grit, then dowels and sandpaper to finish.
 
Do you have a grinder? do you have contact wheels? If so, problem solved.
 
Whole bunch of different ways to do things, sometimes you just use what you've got. Like said above, it doesn't NEED to be a round file, it might even just be a 1/2 round file!
But it can be done.
This is going back a few years, but here's how I accomplished it more than a few times:
justina5-1.jpg


justina7-1.jpg


justina8-1.jpg


justina9-2-1.jpg


justina9-4-1.jpg


justina9-7-1.jpg


justinawa.jpg
 
Thanks for the tips, and the pics are especially great since I often need them to help visualize what is being described!

I have a grinder with 3/4", 2", and 10" contact wheels, along with a dremel and assorted round and half-round files...I just wasn't sure how to use any them properly to get the desired effect. I'll give some of these ideas a try.

Thanks again!
 
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