Rubbing alcohol

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Blades2442

Joined
Feb 10, 2016
Messages
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Hey guys is it safe for the knife if I use rubbing alcohol to get the knife clean and get some tape gunk off the blade
 
Yeah, it's fine. I use it all the time to get sharpie off.
 
Hey tle I actually would like some sharpening done is the best way to contact you through email?
 
That works just fine. I may have just replied to your email. I definitely responded to someone...
 
Rubbing alc has water in it. Might avoid using it if the knife has anything that might rust.

To get tape goop off if the alc does not work check out GooGone. Go easy though and clean off any left on the knife.

Come to think of it WD-40 might be your best all around cleaner; cleans but no rust and really goes after gummy glue stuff.
 
I use alcohol pads after cutting cheese, then dry it off with a paper towel. Every time I get my insulin refilled the pharmacy gives me a billion alc pads.
 
It depends on what kind of residue is on your blade, oil or water soluble.

Goo Gone, Kroil, WD40, kerosene, and many other light hydrocarbons will do a fine job of removing oil soluble tape residue and other gunk from a blade. I can report from experience that none of those solvents taste good if you later use your knife for food prep. I usually follow up with soap and water or alcohol to remove the solvent residue. Light food oils like soybean, sunflower, etc. will also remove tape residue and any oil left on the blade tastes better, but can go rancid if left on the blade a long period of time

Rubbing alcohol (isopropanol) will do a good job removing water and alcohol soluble residues from a blade, and evaporates off pretty quickly. Some tape residues will not be dissolved. I usually use 70% isopropanol, or 90% denatured ethanol.

If your knife has an acrylic handle, don't use alcohol on it, high proof alcohol can crack and craze acrylic.
 
The higher percentage isopropyl alcohol works very well for sanitizing knives and cleaning tape residue, without any worry of moisture remaining. Lighter fluid works well, also, in a pinch.
 
I use lighter fluid for things like tape residue or pine tree sap, mostly because I carry a zippo most everywhere with me. There's always a can or two zippo fluid handy. Never had any rust or problems with synthetic handles using lighter fluid. One time I used some type of pressurized gun cleaner and it pretty much ruined the handles on a Gerber E-Z out. WD-40 works too, but it's usually out in the garage.

Grizz
 
Depends of the blade finishing. Real knives are fine with alcohol. My daughter's cheap black Sheffield knife... I cleaned some tape goo with alcohol and we lost about 30-40% of the black finish!
 
There's some great info here already, but I'd like to throw another hat in the ring. Acetone is one of the most versatile solvents on the planet, if you can get it. While it's more expensive than isopropyl alcohol - I don't think anyone has mentioned it yet here but 91% IPA, my go-to over 70%, is readily available and is better than 70% - acetone is a better solvent for things that are more plasticky or rubbery in nature, compared to IPA which is great for dissolving oily things in water; kerosene is best for removing grease. Acetone is ridiculously volatile, even compared to IPA, and also carries less moisture with it so it's a good option for cleaning lock mechanisms and knives that will touch food. With that volatility comes extreme flammability... easier to ignite than kerosene. NOT compatible with zippos. If you're inclined to glove it up, butyl>latex>nitrile>vinyl>skin.

Be warned: acetone will go to work on many different kinds of plastic, including fiberglass/acrylic (in your G-10 scales). Make sure you know what nonmetallic materials you intend to clean before you expose them to any solvent, whether it's acetone or IPA or kerosene. Nylon (zytel) and phenolic resins (micarta) should be fine with pretty much any organic solvent. I don't know what type of resin base is used in carbon fiber - anyone, help?

Be warned again: don't just use nail polish remover if you're after acetone. There are lots of other chemicals in it that won't evaporate off your blade cleanly.

Hopefully I haven't discouraged using acetone too strongly...
 
I get 99% ipa from work. It says safe for plastics on the bottle. My favorite solvent is lacquer thinner. Way more effective but don't get it on the handles:
 
You could use pure white vinegar also, afterwards wipe with a damp wet cloth then dry and oil it.
 
I agree with Golden Goal about using acetone. You can get a gallon at Walmart, Lowe's, Home Depot cheaper than a small bottle of goo gone and it does a better job.
 
To save yourself time use a utility knife if available, that way you don't gunk up your blade. :D
 
Acetone would be my last choice, because it is very effective and will attack all kinds of plastics. Extreme care.

Alcohol of any kind will attack cellidor scales on a Swiss Army Knife.

Kerosene/paint thinner/goo gone/Zippo fluid/WD40/charcoal lighter fluid are very similar solvents that will dissolve gummy adhesives well enough. Some of the more volatile ones will evaporate fairly quickly. Some have aromatic ingredients that will linger on. Sometimes knives with rubbery handles/handle inserts may be attacked by these solvents.

Gasoline works as a tape adhesive solvent. At least as nasty and dangerous as anything else.

A little bit of care, and any of these things can be used effectively without damage, tainting foods or otherwise causing harm.
 
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