I noticed that these two otherwise identical SAKs use differing locks, the red handled Rucksack has a sliding lock and the black handled Forester has a double liner lock that locks both the screw driver and knife blade. My Question is which lock is better? How well do they hold up? Thanks!
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Rucksack vs Forester locks.
- Thread starter frank k
- Start date
Frank, In all honesty on this type of knife I don't think it matters which
lock is used as long as the tools you want are contained in the knife.
I own an older rucksack and I really like the sliding deadbolt lock .but
there are other newer SAK's that are just as nice. Pick yer tools and enjoy
yer knife no matter which lock it has,
lock is used as long as the tools you want are contained in the knife.
I own an older rucksack and I really like the sliding deadbolt lock .but
there are other newer SAK's that are just as nice. Pick yer tools and enjoy
yer knife no matter which lock it has,
Tightwad & Mike, thanks for your replys.
Mike, Victorinox uses a stainless steel very nearly the same as 425M, at an RC of 55-56 for the knife blades (less for most of the other tools). I think the blades are chrome or nickel plated, which is why they seldom rust.
Mike, Victorinox uses a stainless steel very nearly the same as 425M, at an RC of 55-56 for the knife blades (less for most of the other tools). I think the blades are chrome or nickel plated, which is why they seldom rust.
I own both a Cowboy (red, with sliding lock) and a Trailmaster (black, double liner locks). It's possible Victorinox's liner lock is stronger, but I also like their sliding lock.
I wouldn't worry about the difference, as IMO Victorinox is one of the all-time best and consistent knife manufacturers, and their quality is top-notch, especially considering the price.
Jim
I wouldn't worry about the difference, as IMO Victorinox is one of the all-time best and consistent knife manufacturers, and their quality is top-notch, especially considering the price.
Jim
- Joined
- Sep 23, 1999
- Messages
- 3,831
Mike:
Sharpening will take off the plating on an edge. But, this isn't something to worry about! Actually, this is the way they come from the shop, as they have to sharpen them up first. these are stainless steel knives, so your non-plated edge (if the blades are plated) won't rust, unless you are around salty water a lot and don't clean your knife.
This is the same story with coated carbon steel blades. The edges aren't coated as the knife has been sharpened. You have to care for the edge especially on a coated carbon steel knife, as the edge can rust and rust can creep under the coating.
Either way, a lottke bit of Knife TLC and you won't have anything to worry about.
Sharpening will take off the plating on an edge. But, this isn't something to worry about! Actually, this is the way they come from the shop, as they have to sharpen them up first. these are stainless steel knives, so your non-plated edge (if the blades are plated) won't rust, unless you are around salty water a lot and don't clean your knife.
This is the same story with coated carbon steel blades. The edges aren't coated as the knife has been sharpened. You have to care for the edge especially on a coated carbon steel knife, as the edge can rust and rust can creep under the coating.
Either way, a lottke bit of Knife TLC and you won't have anything to worry about.
I've found that Victorinox SAK's are among the easiest knives to resharpen. I haven't noticed any problem with the edge being more rust-prone than the rest of the blade. I've even had blades that were scratched all the he!! up and still no problems. The only place I've ever experienced any rust on a SAK at all was on an old Spartan that had received very little care for years in a humid environment (Taiwan), and it picked up some surface rust on the can and bottle openers which I could virtually scratch clean with a thumbnail, and some towards the pivot...cleaned it up as good as I could and though nowhere as pretty as new, it still works fine.
Jim
Jim