Rust and Prevention

Unbreakable

Unbreakable

Banned
Joined
Sep 21, 2002
Messages
615
Ok guys I am thinking of taking the leap and getting an HI. I've heard so many of you speak so highly of them that I think it's time to try one for myself. I assume they are forged carbon steel. So I assume they rust easy. Any products or practices I can employ from the start that will help maintain my HI. I have found Flitz leaves a layer behind that acts as a barrier to moisture and prevents rusting... but this has traditionally been on steels that only have a mild tendancy to rust. Any info would be appreciated on maintaining one. And if there was a sticky or link to a FAQ forgive me... I didn't see it.
 
I wipe mine down with a rag after I'm done. Sometimes I add a little oil. As long as they're not stored underwater they'll be fine.
 
There are several methods to keeping your khuk rust free. Like Dave said, a quick wipe with an oiled cloth will keep 99% of the rust off depending on where you store your khuk. Some folks swear by that marine tuff cloth stuff. Some will forgo the shiny mirror finish and cold blue the blade. Others let a natural patina gray the blade with use. This tends to slow the rusting process as well. About the best thing you can do for your khuk is use it:D:thumbup: An often used khuk keeps the rust knocked off.
Personally, I like to keep my wood choppers oiled up with 3 n 1 or mineral oil and food prep/camping khuks get a coating of olive oil (since 3n1 would probably kill ya if you ate it).
 
I always wipe my kukris with Ballistol after use, then leave some on the blade.
It's great stuff - and food-safe as well.
 
I'm seldom as finicky about cleaning up my khuks these days, and so far my oft-used Samsher just has some patinated spots on the blade, though for some reason there's a bit of rust on the buttcap. I'm probably in the "natural patina" camp Steely mentioned, though it's taking a LONG time for the blade to lose much of its mirror finish.
 
Yeah I definitly use olive oil just to make safe for food prep. I think the thing that people have to worry about is blade sticking in the sheath. Which I think they came out with a fix for it.
 
I use mineral oil. Cheap, okay lubricant, there are much better and more expensive ones out there. Also works pretty well to clean off the khuk after use.

I use it on all my knives as its food grade, which isn't really a concern for khuks, unless you've got a REAL big sandwich.

Its also good for the handle, especially if you have horn handles and okay for the leather (mineral oil will soften and discolor leather, but the scabbards are woodlined and the leather is generally black so not as much an issue as maybe for other sheaths).
 
GEC said:
Yeah I definitly use olive oil just to make safe for food prep. I think the thing that people have to worry about is blade sticking in the sheath. Which I think they came out with a fix for it.
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I was always under the impression that the fats in olive oil can go rancid after a time and actually make you sick. I've always used mineral oil on kitchen blades as it won't spoil.
 
I inquired about this particular knife
yhst-7333098713883_1801_3411075

It said you could request custom lengths and such so I asked about this modle with a 16" blade that was 5/8ths thick. Should be hell on wheels.
 
N2S did something similar with a 18in I think blade and 10in handle, but he had to have it made more then once since the first time they gave it the standard blade with a 10in handle. I hope yours comes out well. :D
 
Recently, I've found that I don't have to oil the blades. I guess it's not overly humid where I store them, and they don't usually get all that wet. So far so good!

But when I did go through the trouble of oiling, I used baby oil.

I recently used talcum powder to protect an 18" CAK that's wrapped up as a Christmas present for some lucky family member. More of a long-term storage option.
 
any oil is better than no oil.


Mineral oil is cheap and easy and works great.

The best protection I've used is Briwax on the blade and handle. No residue if you do it right - and lasts a while.



Lastly, chopping with a kukri will heat it up...so, when you're done chopping/etc. let it cool off outside the sheath before resheathing - an hour or so.

:thumbup:
 
Ballistol for me as well, I leave a thin film on the blade after use. Balistol, as others have stated, is good for a myriad of uses. I store my khurks in the basement, over two years now with no rust. I'm sure other stuff works as well, I have Ballistol on hand and it just seems to work great, leather, firearms, you name it. Most important thing is to take the leap and get a genuine HI blade:D
 
I got a bunch in my workroom and bedroom of my Apt. I mainly use cheap "gun oil" that I got here and there. Ive never had any problems with rust. I have a few blems that came with spots, but as that they are users I have never really cleaned it off. A little bit adds character.

Now that I think of it the cheap "Gun oil" is actually a mixture of stuff that I had laying around. A 1/2 bottle this a 1/4 bottle this added to a bigger squeeze bottle...Rem-Oil, Break Free CLP, 3 in 1, a few partial bottles of wally world brand gun oil, and probably stuff I can't remember. I shake it up and it seems to do its job well.
I wouldent eat it though. :barf:
 
Since I was a little kid I was introduced with Brasso and now I still use it for most of my knives. Some peoples use clove oil and I have tried it but I am not very happy with it most probably because the clove oil which I got here seems has a high water content. Our friend Steve Furgesson in one of the BF thread said that he uses camellia oil but I still couldn't get any yet. So I still stick with Brasso for the time being.

brasso.jpg


somebody in Wikipedia said:
Brasso is one of the most widely-used and well-known metal polishes in the world. It is a light brown, opaque liquid which smells of ammonia (the label of Australian Brasso claims "Liquid Hydrocarbons 630g/L; Ammonia 5g/L).

Brasso has been in use for over 100 years, and originated in Britain in 1905, after a representative from the company Reckitt and Sons brought a sample of liquid metal polish from Australia. The polish grew in popularity in England, eventually replacing the previous paste-style polishes. It has undergone very few changes in both composition and package design over the past century.
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