Rust Bluing?

Joined
Aug 4, 2012
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I've heard this process applied to gun parts, but never to knives. Gun aficionados seem to think its about the most corrosion resistant traditional coating method there is. It leaves a real nice blue/black finish and (according to the few accounts I found) can even bring out the pattern in damascus similar to a more standard etch.

The general process goes as follows:

1. degrease the part COMPLETELY, as in soak in acetone, and wear latex gloves handling it.
2. brush on a light coat of a rusting agent (often a dilute mixture of hydrochloric and nitric acids, but anything that makes rust works ok)
3. leave the part sit in a humid environment for a few hours until an even, powdery coating of orange rust forms all over the surface, shorter times make finer rust, but take longer as explained below.
4. suspend the part on stainless steel wires, and boil in distilled water for 1/2 hour or so. This converts the orange Fe2O3 into black Fe3O4.
5. use 000 steel wool to card off the excess coating, anything that won't stick.
6. repeat the process until the coating doesn't get any darker (usually 8-12 repetitions).
7. soak the finished part in oil to saturate the coating, and wipe clean.

Do the gun and knife enthusiasts not share notes? Is it just the time and labor involved? Can boiling water mess up the temper on a knife? I just don't get why there is so much talk about "forcing a patina" and none about a technique that does just that, but with actual corrosion protection beyond what a simple patina provides.
 
I forced patina all my carbon pocket & kitchen knives by cook in hot plain vinegar 3times or coated in yellow mustard and let it bakes in the sun for 2+ hrs, repeat twice. I think boiling water/vinegar is around 100c, which is way below critical de-tempering 150+c, therefore no need to worry.
 
You can also cold blue. It's just a paste you wipe on and buff with steel wool, its that easy. Gun blue does not prevent rust.

I typically force a patina by running the blade under hot tap water then rubbing with a lemon. Wait 2 minutes rinse and repeat until desired finish is reached. Usually takes me 15-30 minutes.
 
boiling and scrubbing a knife 12 times seems like too much trouble to me. Right now I'm just letting them get a patina as they want to, i.e. wash with dishwasher and sponge, dry, use again... interesting post tho, might try it one day if I don't have anything else to do.
 
It just seems that with all the interest in survival and bushcraft knives, this would be the ultimate in corrosion protection for non-stainless. It is a lot of work, but it works well, any further corrosion will likely just add to it, and IMHO it looks darn good.
 
Cold blue and "patinas" are not in the same class as rust bluing. Cold blue can actually PROMOTE rust.
Rust bluing leaves a "soft" finish that holds oil well and is a durable blue. Boiling water won't hurt a knife's temper.
 
I've used Birchwood Casey's plum brown. It's normally used for traditional muzzle loaders, but works well on knives to. Very easy to use. Just degrease the metal, heat with a small torch just enough so that when the plum brown is applies it sizzles. You don't have to worry about taking the temper out of the blade. You really don't need that much heat.
 
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