Rust in jimping?

Joined
Sep 17, 2010
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Alright. So I bought a CTS-XHP manix 2. It was bought second hand. It has a bit of light rust in the jimping area. So I am wondering what would be the best way to remove it? It also concerns me that there could be rust inside the pivot area. I haven't taken a manix apart. So what is your advice bladeforums?
 
I've had a bit of rust in the jimping too. I used an old toothbrush and some WD-40 to get rid of it.
 
is it actually rust or is it the residue from the laser blanking of the blade, pictures would help.
 
is it actually rust or is it the residue from the laser blanking of the blade, pictures would help.

I'm not sure. I can snap a few pics when I get home. I was a little surprised it would have rust. I thought its corrosion resistance was as high or higher than 440c
 
Thanks ill try that! What are your thoughts on tearing the knife apart?

I don't usually do it if it's not absolutely necessary. It would also depend on your confidence to put it back together but warranty is void when you take it apart
 
I use flitz to get rust spots off blades. Dont worry it is probably just some surface rust that will come right off.xhp is corrosive resistant but its not h1
 
I'd be careful when taking your M2 apart. I took my old one apart a while ago and ended up stripping one of the body screws. Just take it slow and you should be gravy. If you do end up stripping your screws, I have a few backups I could send your way.
 
I'd be careful when taking your M2 apart. I took my old one apart a while ago and ended up stripping one of the body screws. Just take it slow and you should be gravy. If you do end up stripping your screws, I have a few backups I could send your way.

Thanks brother. Not sure what I am gonna do yet haha.
 
I had this problem with the really deep cut jimping on my 0350CB (the 14C28N spine had lots of surface rust from the previous owner) and I used a rolled up piece of 2000 grit sandpaper to get it at first, then a toothbrush with toothpaste, and finally a wire brush head on a dremel. I think any of those three methods would work adequately. I don't own a Manix 2, but from what I've seen on youtube, I don't recommend taking it apart because of the flared lanyard tube.
 
I get some rust in the choil on my XHP and M390 Para 2's. It is the area that rests against the stop pin when closed. The only thing I can figure is that after I wash the knife I don't get that area totally dry, and then leave it closed where no air can dry it out.

Looks like this:
IMG_2549.jpg
 
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