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rust never sleeps

G

getridone

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Out butchering some chickens tonight in the rain, Bk9 getting wet, chopping limbs of poultry readily....

So, the knife sat wet for about 30 minutes and I was surprised to see how fast it starting to develop surface rust.

7162061014_30df4449f7_b.jpg


Had some 600 grit handy and took care of it, but I was just a little surprised. Is this pretty much everyone else's experience with 1095? If I had of oiled him up before he got wet this probably wouldn't have happened, note to self.
 
Yep rust can move fast on 1095 and surely doesn't sleep. I tend to oil my high carbon before and after a excursion. Even a folder I have that is semi stainless gets rust on it in my back pocket in the summer of I don't oil it nightly. Maybe try sum tuf glide I've thought about it just haven't got around to trying it yet.
 
Mine used to rust fairly easy before I forced a patina on it. Yours looks like it doesn't have a patina on it yet so if you forced one it would give you better rust protection.
 
I held my eskabar in my sweaty hand for over 5 hours convexing it (which failed since I didnt actually know what a convex edge is really suposed to be...I do now though) and there wasnt a single spot of rust on it! Surprised yours rusted so quickly...
 
In Virgina the law states you must clean your knife daily.
Where are you, anywhere near Nelson County?

Blood & water conspire against steel. Keep her waxed or oiled.

-Daizee
 
Another thing you can do to help against rush is to put a high polish on the blade. Brought my Seven up to mirror by hand sanding, but if you have access to power tools it's not the hardest thing to do. The less porous the metal, the less moisture can find purchase, and the less surface area exposed to oxidation. It won't solve the problem completely, but it will prevent that kind of 30-minute surface rust from forming as easily. I've had my polished and patinated knife begin to rust after a day of steelheading, standing for 8 hours in solid west-coast rain. Oil it up every time you take it out though and you won't have that problem at all.
 
I tend to use my knives for food prep pretty interchangeably so I don't think that stuff would work for me. Maybe on my Machax though, I doubt that will see much Kitchen duty.
 
If only the knives came with some type of opaque, perhaps black coating like substance so that only the edge would be susceptible to this rusting phenomenon and thereby reduce the amount of maintenance required to combat it.
 
getridone said:
Out butchering some chickens tonight in the rain, Bk9 getting wet, chopping limbs of poultry readily....

So, the knife sat wet for about 30 minutes and I was surprised to see how fast it starting to develop surface rust.

7162061014_30df4449f7_b.jpg


Had some 600 grit handy and took care of it, but I was just a little surprised. Is this pretty much everyone else's experience with 1095? If I had of oiled him up before he got wet this probably wouldn't have happened, note to self.
Click to expand...


At least you didn't have that ugly black coating on your blade.
 
Haze240 said:
I tend to use my knives for food prep pretty interchangeably so I don't think that stuff would work for me. Maybe on my Machax though, I doubt that will see much Kitchen duty.
Click to expand...

It is made with sheeps wool oil. Same stuff that is in womens make-up. (the guy that works at our local John Deere dealer used to sell it before he worked at JD) I do not think there would be any issues, based on the PSDS. As long as it is not put on thick, there should be no issues. I use it on my blades & also use them in the kitchen. I put some on, spread it around with my fingers & then wipe off with a paper towel. Some stays on but not enough to see, just enough to work.

http://www.fluid-film.com/downloads/nonaerosol_msds.pdf
 
S silicone cloth, renaissance wax, or mineral oil would help a lot. They would need to be re-applied after some use, but work pretty well.
 
daizee said:
In Virgina the law states you must clean your knife daily.
Where are you, anywhere near Nelson County?

Blood & water conspire against steel. Keep her waxed or oiled.

-Daizee
Click to expand...

Hey, didn't know about that law....I'm about 1 1/2 hour south of Nelson County. I kind of like the idea of waxing, what do you use?
 
Blood is full of salt and water, add more water to that mix and rust is a fast worker. Straight water shouldnt start rust that fast , but like everyone said a uncoated blade or one without a patina needs a lot more attention.
 
When I was in the Navy I had a couple Carbon V Cold Steel knives...you didn't even have to use them, just expose them to air. Droves me frickin' nuts! Coastal areas are a bitch for carbon blades.

If you like the solid look, others have already given you the right answers. Sand to higher polish...up to 2000 grit at least. If you want the sold dark look, submerge in white vinegar for a while, then take out and immediately dry to give it a solid white grey patina.

If you are processing food, keep some fresh olive oil handy and keep a light coat on it.
 
CamH_16 said:
I held my eskabar in my sweaty hand for over 5 hours convexing it (which failed since I didnt actually know what a convex edge is really suposed to be...I do now though) and there wasnt a single spot of rust on it! Surprised yours rusted so quickly...
Click to expand...
Same here with a Gossman PSK in 01. My hand didn't rust it but when cutting up a lemon you can literally watch it rust in front of your eyes.
Haze240 said:
Another thing you can do to help against rush is to put a high polish on the blade. Brought my Seven up to mirror by hand sanding, but if you have access to power tools it's not the hardest thing to do. The less porous the metal, the less moisture can find purchase, and the less surface area exposed to oxidation. It won't solve the problem completely, but it will prevent that kind of 30-minute surface rust from forming as easily. I've had my polished and patinated knife begin to rust after a day of steelheading, standing for 8 hours in solid west-coast rain. Oil it up every time you take it out though and you won't have that problem at all.
Click to expand...

I've also heard the opposite that a mirror polish can't hold oil so they rust quicker then a matte finish.
 
sqoon said:
If only the knives came with some type of opaque, perhaps black coating like substance so that only the edge would be susceptible to this rusting phenomenon and thereby reduce the amount of maintenance required to combat it.
Click to expand...

The edge is the only area where rust matters. Nice try. :D
 
sqoon said:
You're trying to tell me that prepping food with a rusty knife, but a clean edge doesn't matter? Nice try. :D
Click to expand...

Same difference as whatever carcinogenic coating you have on there. However the point is moot on a food prep knife because continued use will give a patina. Besides my tetanus shot is up to date. ;)
 
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