Rust on backsprings

[st_burt]

Hi, I've been lurking on this forum for a while but haven't had occasion to post. Lately I've noticed rust on the backsprings of a couple knives, and I could use some help. I tried a couple searches but couldn't find the information I'm looking for.

My understanding is that backsprings are generally made from the same steel as the blade, but is this always true? It seems to me that carbon steel blades with stainless backsprings would be better for summer pocket carry than carbon steel blades and backsprings.

Also, do I need to worry about rust on the sides of the backsprings? I can remove rust from the outside of the backspring easily, and the inside with some work, but there's no gap between the springs and the brass parts (what are those called?) on most of my knives, so I don't know how I'd clean that except chemicals, which I don't want to mess with. I'm using Tuf Glide on the backsprings at the moment because it doesn't gum up, but maybe I need to try something else for carbon steel?

My last question is what should I use to remove rust from the backspring? I've been using 000 steel wool with some Break Free CLP on it. I'm wondering if I should be using metal polish though. A polished backspring should be more resistant to rust and easier to clean, right? Most of my traditional knives have a brushed finish on the backspring, but it shouldn't be too hard to polish them.

Sorry for such a long post. I'm a little spooked about seeing rust on my knives.

Take care,

Stephen

 

[Will Power]

Hello and welcome.

Best not let the rust get there in the first place, try to keep it clean and slightly oiled. I use metal polish sometimes,carbon backsprings will usually darken with patina anyway-this keeps the evil oxide at bay.

CASE modern cv knives usually have stainless backsprings which I like a lot, others probably look askance at this...Böker on the other hand have the odd combination of stainless blades and carbon backsprings!

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

For the rust on the sides of the backsprings, some WD-40 works well. Use the red 'nozzle' supplied with the spray can to get inside the handle and spray it along the full length of the backsprings. Exercise the backsprings by opening/closing the blades several times; this helps to dislodge & break up any rust & other debris. The WD-40 will flush out a lot of that rust between the springs & liners. If you put a few layers of white paper towel under the knife while doing this, you'll immediately see how much rust and/or other dirt & gunk gets flushed out.

I've had great success in cleaning up my knives as follows:

1. Flush out w/WD-40 as described above.

2. Wash the knife in hot, soapy water (use some liquid dish soap). You can use a toothbrush or Q-tip or folded paper towel to scrub inside the handle/liner area if needed.

3. Rinse thoroughly under hot water. The hot water will warm up all of the metal parts of the knife, which will greatly aid in evaporating residual moisture after the rinse.

4. Wipe down & dry all accessible parts of the knife with a clean rag or paper towel. Again, you can use a folded paper towel or rag to absorb moisture inside the handles. If you like, a hair dryer can be used to blow dry the inside handle/liner areas.

5. Some WD-40 can then be sparingly applied in the pivots & liners to further displace any residual moisture.

Since you're already using the BreakFree CLP, use that as desired, if you wish. Some metal polish will usually work fine for removing rust from the exposed portions of the springs. If there is significant pitting, you could also use some fine steel wool or perhaps a 3M ScotchBrite pad (green) to scrub out some of that. Then use the polish afterwards, if you wish.

 

[st_burt]

Thanks for your responses. I think I'll use a bit of metal polish to remove the slight pitting that's already there, and I'll clean it again with Breakfree to make sure there's no rust on the sides of the backsprings. Hopefully I'll be able to build up a patina without having the backsprings rust on me again.