Rust On Satin-ized Nimravus Tang

[doggyknife]

I finally got tired of the scratches on my nimravus' BT2, and have started the scotch-brite removal process. However I am unsure about how to minimize any corrosion that might occur under the G10 slabs once I'm done. I'm definitely going to keep as much BT2 on under the G10 slabs, though I'm positive that there will be exposed areas under the G10. I remember someone mentioned the use of epoxy under the slabs, though nothing specific about what type or how applied. Any ideas?

Also, does anyone know exactly what the spotty substance under the G10 slabs and around the screws on the tang are? I'm assuming it's some type of oil, but I'm not sure what its use is. I thought that it was probably for the screws/bolts, but there seems to be an awful lot of it up and down the tang.

Thanks in advance.

Felix

[This message has been edited by Felix (edited 02-06-2000).]

 

[MICKEY77]

If I were you I would just go ahead and remove all the B2 that way it doesnt look bare in some spots and that way you dont have to put up with other products.....

 

[dogboye]

Well, first off, you don't mention whether your Nimravus is M2 or ATS-34. If the latter, I'd just remove as much as needed to make sure that the black doesn't show around the tang area, and screw the G10 back on. If you're really worried about it, you could put a very light film of olive oil, mineral oil, or rub the area with Tuf-Coth, but I wouldn't worry about it on an ATS-34 Nimravus. My Nimravus Cub is M2, satinized, and profile altered. The first few weeks that I had it that way, I was careful to make sure I kept a little olive oil on the blade. Now, I've quit that and just wipe it after I use it to cut anything wet or ... corrosive. Haven't encountered any problems yet, in about and additional 3 weeks. I left most of the BT intact under the scales, by the way.

If you really want to do the epoxy thing, the person in the thread mentioned Devcon 2-ton epoxy. I have heard that can be pretty messy, especially if you haven't done it before, and especially if you're trying to get everything set up and screwed down, while having the epoxy on there. I think the words were, "That stuff gets EVERYWHERE."
As for the spotty substance, I can't say much about that. IIRC, when I took my slabs off the first time, there was what appeared to be a little ltwt grease in the areas you mention. I just assumed it was put on at the factory to make sure that the screws didn't rust to each other and/or the blade. Dunno

Hope this helps a little. Have fun with it. They are beautiful with the BT off of them, even if you get in a hurry and scratch them up a bit. Although I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but I like mine with even the sandpapered finish.

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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."

[This message has been edited by rockspyder (edited 02-07-2000).]

 

[doggyknife]

Thanks for the help guys. The nimravus I'm going to satinize is ATS-34, so I'm not too worried about corrosion on the blade itself, or the protruding edge of the tang. I'm more worried about moisture seeping under the G10 slabs and staying there. If I remove the BT2 from the protruding edges of the tang, along with some that would be covered by the G10, it might create a "pocket" between the G10 slabs and the outer tang. Because I would screw on the slabs over a mostly BT2 covered tang, the exposed ATS-34 steel under the slabs may no longer be in contact with the G10. As a result, I'm worried about the "pocket" for water this may create. I'm probably just being super-nit-picky, but I have a tendancy to baby my knives (when not in use). Thanks again!