Recommendation? Rust on Spydiechef?

M

MikeyR

Joined
Jan 26, 2020
Messages
2
Made dinner with Spydiechef because I was backyard camping and didn't want to bring the wife's knives out. Cut some pickles, peppers and a lemon with it, acidic stuff for sure but LC200N!. It was wet with food gunk for maybe 8-10 minutes at most before I washed it off and wiped it dry. Found these spots afterward in the morning they do not scrub off with a sponge and I can't scrape them off with my fingernail. They seem to be actual rust spots on the blade (in a pretty ironic spot). This seems pretty unusual and I was wondering if this could be a manufacturing defect.

Knife was anodized by KnivesPlus, not me.

3viZh8S.jpg
 
This shouldn't be possible like that with LC200N. I see you have the version with the black screws, so it can't be the detent ball. (they upgraded it to ceramic because it was the only thing that could rust in the previous version.)

If you're sure this is rust, I'd contact Spyderco about it.
 
That's strange! I've done worse to mine, and it has no evidence of it whatsoever.

Perhaps see if it comes off with some wet baking soda and elbow grease? That's my go to for corrosion removal.
 
I would guess that this is most likely superficial. I think if you grind off the surface layer and avoid "iron contamination", the blade will probably perform as expected.
 
Karl H said:
I would guess that this is most likely superficial. I think if you grind off the surface layer and avoid "iron contamination", the blade will probably perform as expected.
Click to expand...
Spyderco probably grinds LC200N in the same belt that grinds less stainless steels. All stainless steel will show rusting if some less stainless steel is embedded in the surface. Take a strop and clean it up and it will be fine.
 
'Spyderco probably grinds LC200N in the same belt that grinds less stainless steels. All stainless steel will show rusting if some less stainless steel is embedded in the surface. Take a strop and clean it up and it will be fine.'

Wiping a blade down with a rag used on another knife or tool can bring steel or even rust particles which when they rust on your new knife will pit even non corroding steels ( and yes titanium). Always use new clean rags and sharpeners for only your LC200N ( H1 and Ti) knives unless you are sure you can wash off tiny unseen steel particles that are probably magnetized. Using the same sharpeners has caused a lot of issues also that look just like yours do right now. That old oil rag in your garage that wiped off your tools will do the same.

It's one of the reasons I wax new blades with clean cloth. It gets off any invisible to the naked eye particles left on the blade and micropolishes the blade clean. I don't usually bother with inexpensive new stainless knives but any good knife that comes through my hands will usually get that treatment.

Joe
 
If you're seriously worried about rust you need to get away from steel. Dendric cobalt never rusts.
 
Do you have any polishing compound? I use a qtip with aluminum oxide polishing compound to get i to areas like that.

I'd agree, either the same belt uses to grind carbon steel, or possibly some sharpening swarf from another knife with carbon steel.
 
I'm curious about the obvious reaction on the Ti scales.

With the LC200N Mule knives I think at least one person had a reaction in the knife with the handle hardware. I don't know what the final read on that was though.

As for factory contaminated belts I'd have to guess the place those are made will be pro enough to start a new belt for a run and work through the whole production. But you know as soon as you let humans in the door errors do creep in too.
 
I wonder if during anodizing some non burnt carbon splattered on your blade.

Where you holding the torch in a downward position?

*Edit* I read you did not do the scale treatment.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top