Rust Preventative

J

jmh76

Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
101
I went camping last weekend for 3 days, intermident rain. Of course I took all my axes/hawks. I fell several 8" trees with my GB Scand. axe? With my chainsaw right beside me;) First real use for the axe was a pure joy. Man that thing sinks in deep. The only tool that came back with major rust, was my 2 Hawks woodsman. I oiled everything a few weeks back. The rust was bad enough that I had to remove all the blueing, oh well. I am learning as I go. (Blueing offers no protection) What should I use for oil? I have been using air tool oil. Is that not enough?
 
Depends on what conditions you'll be using it under. I've heard good things about Ballistol but haven't used it. WD-40 is good for displacing water from a tool when you have to hang it up after wet use, but isn't as hot for long term storage. Renaissance Wax is great for long term storage, but will obviously wear with use. Mineral oil is a cheap and widely available short-to-medium length storage solution as well as for general cleaning and maintenance.
 
For at least five years, maybe longer I've been using Corrosion X on all of my firearms and the majority of my blades that are/will not be used for food prep and have been very pleased. Good stuff IMHO.

Also use 3 in 1 oil with good results.
 
A knife maker I met at Blade Show a few years back told me about CRC 3-36. He claimed he treated a piece of Damascus steel and set it out in the elements for a month and it remained rust free.
I've been using it for a few years and my stuff is rust free........but, I keep my stuff cleaned up and it doesn't sit out in the elements.
 
mix up a little wax and linseed oil, thin with some turpinetine. now smear it on and rub it in, metal , wood, it helps.
 
Of all of the RP's I have used, EEZOX works the best for me.
 
I use "Rust Free from" A. G. Russell. Only comes in small bottles, goes on thicker than most oils. A little goes a long way and it works well.

Good luck.
 
Out of all the stuff I've tried for rust prevention, Breakfree CLP works the best for my purposes. YMMV. Ironically enough, I don't even use it for cleaning or lubing guns anymore either.
 
omniviking said:
mix up a little wax and linseed oil, thin with some turpinetine. now smear it on and rub it in, metal , wood, it helps.
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I've recently started using that and I like it. Too early for me to say how long it lasts. The axes look good with it and the wood slides across my table saw slicker than eel snot.
 
If you are going to use it often, then there is nothing that is going to protect you 100%, as the use will wear off whatever you have put on. Lots of good suggestions here so far. I am a fan of WD40 myself, but it is a constant reapplication process, say, once a month-45 days I do all my vintage stuff, used or not. Though I like that, because I get to revisit my tools, probably not for everyone.

Storage for long periods, there are many options. I have used plain jane linseed oil, and it has worked very well. Some guys use Vaseline, which I hear works well too, though I have no experience with it. My only advice would be dont make it more compliacted and costly than what it has to be - sometimes the KISS method is the way to go.
 
Or there's always *gasp* PAINTING IT. :eek:

I actually have a couple coats of clear lacquer on my hay knife (huge serrated saw-looking thing for cutting hay portions) and pry bars etc. and they've stayed nice and rust free. ;)
 
Fluid Film, but as anything else, it would need reapplication after use.

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Also, for long exposure to wet, rubbing on car wax and buffing it off leaves a hard protective coat. After chopping it will still require reapplication.
 
Alberta Ed said:
I've used BreakFree CLP with excellent results, for many years.
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Ive also had excellent results with Break Free CLP as a preservative.
For long term storage I still prefer to use something like Rig or Remington Universal grease on my carbon steel items.
 
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