Rust prevention on nonstainless steels

Bluemantra

Bluemantra

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Aug 3, 2020
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I love steels like K390, cruwear, 4v and while not stainless as s90v and others can I still use knives with those steel for things such as cutting an apple so long as the blade is immediately wiped dry? Or does it have to be kept far away from any water?
 
You can definitely use it to cut an apple, just rinse it and wipe it dry when you’re done. And even if you didn’t, you’re far more likely to just get a patina rather than “rust”. Rust comes more from long term exposure to wet/moist environments. These steels are not just looking to rust at the first opportunity. That said, it does matter where you live. If you live in the desert southwest (like me) the chances of random rust are negligible. If you live in the bayou, you’ll need to oil it regularly and be vigilant. :)

I use my Rex 45, M4, Cruwear, and Maxamet Para 3s in food prep frequently (tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, etc.) and have no issues. I do rinse the blade when I am finished (sometimes I use a bit of dish soap if necessary, sometimes not) then wipe it dry on a kitchen towel.

Anyway, don’t be afraid of these non-stainless tool steels. Worse case scenario, you have to use a little Flitz every now and then to keep them rust free.
 
I hiked The Narrows in Zion and got my cruwear para3 soaked. Was several hours before i could dry it and it was fine
 
For some things wiping dry isn't enough. You may need to rinse or wash it off before drying. After that I seal the blade off from the air by waxing it with paste wax. In particular Renaissance wax which is made for knives and swords and such. I recommend keeping and using a clean cloth used only for the wax so it doesn't collect grit and scratch the blade while waxing. The wax itself micro polishes the steel and it comes out looking pretty good. I use it on all my knives now including stainless ones. For me it works better than oils and greases used for rust prevention but I still lube pivots and bearings with usually aerosol spray dry teflon.
 
I like patina on blades, if you are using regularly easy to maintain. I too like to use renisance wax and have done for years.
 
The blade itself won't be a problem. Watch around the pivot area and the jimping for rust.

I use Break Free, Fireclean, or Boeshield T9 to deal with corrosion prevention and I keep the edges sharp.
 
Smithers13228 said:
How bout just wiping them down with tuf-cloth? That’s enough right?
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Most of the time, yes. It's an excellent product but it doesn't last as long or do as well as a good coating of wax to seal away the oxygen. I treat the liners with tuff glide liquid when I get a knife that has liners to protect from the salt in sweat. In between re treatments I wipe the inside down with tuff cloths. The way I do it takes maybe a minute or two to do it all with a minute or two for the wax to dry before buffing with the cloth I applied the wax with.
 
I have a Gayle Bradley 2 with m4, no problems with corrosion. 1095 kitchen knives I use with no problems, although I did get them with rust and had to clean them up really good. They have a nice patina.
Just wash em, oil em, it'll be OK.
 
I strongly prefer stainless when it comes to folders.

The amounts of acids, salts and other corrosive elements that can get into the pivot by everyday use.

Fixed blades? That's another story..
 
Bluemantra said:
Does patina provide a layer of protection against rust?
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Somewhat. Not like waxing or keeping the blade oiled. Surface oxidation isn't the real enemy. Pitting is. If the blade is "patina"ed enough you are not going to see what is going on underneath. It may or may not be doing more than just sitting there preventing rust. Some steels are more prone to pitting than others and for those I wouldn't be satisfied that the patina is proof against pitting like the clear layer of wax or oil that you can see through and tell what is going on under.

People automatically tell new knife people that they need to force a patina if they have "carbon steel" and IMO that's wrong. They should learn how to maintain their knives and then make the decision whether to patina or not. Part of it is people stating " that patina looks really good". Most new guys want to fit in and that is the opinion they then form. Have you ever seen one of those "forced patina" knives sold on E bay? The majority of buyers do not think " man that looks beautiful" :) I don't know why they do here other than there are a lot of people following the herd when new to the knife hobby.
 
I just rinse mine off, wipe them down, apply a very light coat of (food safe!) mineral oil... never had an issue.

If you are using for food prep - you mentioned an apple - be aware that many of the recommendations you will get are not food safe - perhaps even toxic!
 
Bluemantra said:
I love steels like K390, cruwear, 4v and while not stainless as s90v and others can I still use knives with those steel for things such as cutting an apple so long as the blade is immediately wiped dry? Or does it have to be kept far away from any water?
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I use CPM Cruwear on food. It is fairly stain resistant, I'd say.

Having some oil on the blade before cutting food helps prevent rapid discoloration. If the pivot gets ANY juice or water in it you should take the knife apart; clean, dry, and oil the pivot.

Be sure to use a food safe oil. I like Ballistol.
 
I was recently able to pick up a rex45 shaman and it is new with light petina marks that aren’t attractive. Not sure how I feel about it. Considering forced petina but would rather reverse it. Any ideas?
 
Smithers13228 said:
I was recently able to pick up a rex45 shaman and it is new with light petina marks that aren’t attractive. Not sure how I feel about it. Considering forced petina but would rather reverse it. Any ideas?
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I'd try Flitz or metal glow or something similar first. Make sure you wash it off completely afterward and take care not to get it in the pivot or detent ball if you can avoid it and wash it out good if you do. A good waxing might take the patina off if it is light enough but the Flitz and a clean cloth works better for that. If you get stuff in the pivot and wash it out don't forget to relube it after.
 
Smithers13228 said:
I was recently able to pick up a rex45 shaman and it is new with light petina marks that aren’t attractive. Not sure how I feel about it. Considering forced petina but would rather reverse it. Any ideas?
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I've got this knife in REX 45 and I found it would not take much of a patina with onions, meat, or mustard. It's pretty faint compared to something like HAP 40.

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Is there much difference between Flitz and Metal Glo? Metal Glo seems to be more expensive. With Flitz, is the paste or the liquid better - or are the pretty much the same?

The Mastiff said:
I'd try Flitz or metal glow or something similar first.
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rje58 said:
Is there much difference between Flitz and Metal Glo? Metal Glo seems to be more expensive. With Flitz, is the paste or the liquid better - or are the pretty much the same?
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I have used them interchangeably but have not compared them head to head. I just buy whichever the store has at the time I need it. With Flitz I use the paste. I don't think I've ever used the liquid. Hopefully somebody with more knowledge about them will add in what if any differences there are.
 
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