Rust Prevention

Joined
Mar 14, 2017
Messages
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Is there anybody on here that has used carbon steel blades in long term trips,or any military guys/gals that have used their carbon steel or semi stainless steel blades in more humid areas? How did you deal with keeping rust at bay if at all? Thanks
 
Clean and lube the blade . Don't get all OCB over the finish . Let it develop a natural patina which adds character and shows you're not a noob . You can use any number of metal polishing / anticorrosion products or as simple as WD-40 type spray . For a food knife , just some safe edible food oil or mineral oil .
 
I use fluid film with exceptional results.

some choices last longer than others. if you are Washing the knife all the time keep mineral oil near by. it doesn't last the long haul but its very cheap and very effective short term. waxes will last a lot longer. fluid films lanolin based, its middle ground and food safe, not too expensive and lasts enough for my uses. some people may be Allergic to sheep/lanolin tho. renaissance wax will last a long time, cost a bit more, is basically food safe but the human body can't digest it. There are an assortment of other brands that can work also... These are probably the most common options. WD-40 is basically mineral oil once the solvent evaporates, but it's better to use mineral oil instead.
 
I've used RIG preservative grease for years . You can also wrap in VPI paper [Vapor phase inhibitor]
 
I use fluid film with exceptional results.

some choices last longer than others. if you are Washing the knife all the time keep mineral oil near by. it doesn't last the long haul but its very cheap and very effective short term. waxes will last a lot longer. fluid films lanolin based, its middle ground and food safe, not too expensive and lasts enough for my uses. some people may be Allergic to sheep/lanolin tho. renaissance wax will last a long time, cost a bit more, is basically food safe but the human body can't digest it. There are an assortment of other brands that can work also... These are probably the most common options. WD-40 is basically mineral oil once the solvent evaporates, but it's better to use mineral oil instead.
Fluid film is the best inhibitor that I've come across by far , it's a little pricey and smells strange but it works well!
 
Yeah, I don't get crazy about it. I like the patina that forms naturally as well. I ship my CPM3V knives with a light coat of veg oil. But my personal knives, I just keep them clean & dry.
 
Froglube works fairly well as a rust preventative. Some people have a love/hate thing with it since it is supposedly basically coconut oil and a couple other things. I wouldn't use it as a lubricant but to help prevent rust it works quite well.
 
Is there anybody on here that has used carbon steel blades in long term trips,or any military guys/gals that have used their carbon steel or semi stainless steel blades in more humid areas? How did you deal with keeping rust at bay if at all? Thanks

BreakFree CLP, available at most sporting goods stores, departments, and gun shops. Widely used by folks with fine firearms. Reasonably priced. Used on M16's in Vietnam and ever since. Here is a test article. If it works on guns it will also work for knives. It is synthetic so will never gum up or dry out like oil. It has multiple properties, hence Cleans, Lubricates, and Protects against corrosion.


Rust Preventatives for Firearms
by Robert P. Firriolo

I am an anti-corrosion fanatic and a lubricant nut, ever in search of the best product to prevent rust and keep moving parts moving, whether on guns, on vehicles, or around the house and workshop. Maybe that's because when I make an investment in a firearm, a hand tool, a car, or whatever, I want it to last.

Over the years I have accumulated numerous products that claim to lubricate and prevent rust. Some are dedicated gun-care products, and others are household and automotive products.

So far, I have rarely been disappointed by one of these products so far as gun maintenance is concerned. But then again I will have to admit to being somewhat scrupulous about cleaning, lubing, and wiping down my guns with good a preservative to prevent rust.

Recently I was inspired by a home test performed by a fellow member of the Curio & Relic FFL e-mail list. This industrious chap tested a few products he had on hand to see how they prevented rust, and reported back to the list over the course of a week or so.

As fine a job as he did, he really didn't have too many products on hand to satisfy my own curious nature. After all, if all of the products I have used weren't tested, I wasn't happy.

Thanks to all of the recent rain we had where I live, I found myself one summer weekend running my own tests. My goal was simply to see what products, when applied as I use them on firearms, would stave off rust the longest.


Test 1: Single Dose Exposure
The first round of tests was designed to test the effectiveness of a relatively heavy coat of preservative with a single, heavy dose of salt spray. I figured this gave the products a fair chance to see if they could ward off moisture as might be encountered on a wet hunting trip or during a day where one's concealed carry handgun rides against a sweaty body.

The first test used 1½ inch bright finish nails, thoroughly cleaned with steel wool to remove surface oxidation until they were all shiny. All of the nails were then degreased with Kleen Bore Gunk Out spray, wiped with clean paper toweling while still wet, and then spray degreased again and patted dry with clean paper towels.

Thereafter, the nails were handled only with forceps that were cleaned and degreased. The test products were applied directly to the nails from the bottles or cans. If the product was a liquid, it was dripped from the top of the nail down to the bottom, making sure all sides were coated. Products in spray form were applied by spraying the nail as it was rotated, to ensure full coverage.

Whether spray or liquid, I purposely used more than enough of each product to ensure full coverage. Between applications, the forceps were degreased to prevent cross-contamination with other products while handling the nails.

After each nail was coated, the excess product was blotted off with a piece of clean paper towel. The object was to keep the nail wet, but not dripping, with the test product. Two polished, degreased nails remained uncoated with any product to serve as controls.

The products initially tested were:

Kleen Bore TW25-B Break Free CLP
Break Free LP Shooter;s Choice Rust Prevent
Birchwood-Casey Sheath Remington RemOil
Eezox WD-40
Kano Kroil 3-in-One Household Oil
Sandaro Industries; Bore Cote Miltec-1.
Sandaro Industries; Arms Cote

Each of the nails was placed on a sheet of wax paper that had been divided into a numbered grid with magic marker. Each nail had its own section of paper where it was not in contact with any other nail.

A saturated salt solution was then prepared in a clean spray bottle. In this case, Diamond Crystal Kosher salt (which is not iodized) was added to the water in the bottle until salt crystals started to precipitate out of the solution. A little more water was added to dissolve the precipitated salt, which got me pretty close to a saturated solution. I figure this was about as severe a test solution as I could concoct.

All of the nails were sprayed down until a small puddle formed around each one. Ambient temperature was a mostly constant 75°F, and relative humidity was around 65%.

The salt-sprayed test nails were allowed to air dry, and the results were observed periodically. After 22 hours, the test was stopped because the uncoated control nails had almost completely rusted, and 22 hours represents a generous amount of time between an ordinary exposure to moisture and one's opportunity to clean the exposed firearm.

The results appear below, in order of my subjective ranking of best-performing to worst:

Best:
Break Free CLP: No rust, bright.
Break Free LP: No rust, bright.
Eezox: No rust, bright.
Sheath: No rust, slight darkening.

Very Good:
TW25-B: Trace rust freckling, slight darkening.
RemOil: Slight rust freckling on bottom.
3-in-One Oil: Trace rust.
Bore Cote: Trace rust on bottom.
WD-40: One small area of rust.

Good:
Rust Prevent: Two small rust spots, <20% coverage.

Unsatisfactory:
Arms Cote: >50% rusted.
Miltec-1: Significant rust along bottom; rust freckling on top.
Kroil: >75% rusted.

The results of the first test produced two immediate thoughts. One was that my first test was probably tougher than most real-world scenarios, as I had been using some of the lower-ranked products for years and had never seen a spot of rust. The other thought was to wonder what would happen to the better products with long-term exposure to salt spray. This led to test number two.

 
Test 2: Repeated Exposure
The second test was designed to see how the products would hold up to repeated exposure to a corrosive environment, so I changed the test to alternate wetting and drying. I also wanted the product application to be lighter, to be representative of the type of wipe-down many people leave on a firearm exterior before carrying it afield or concealed.

Test two started with two-inch bright finish nails cleaned and polished with steel wool, and degreased even more thoroughly than in test one. This batch of test nails sat in a bath of degreaser for 10 minutes after their initial spray-down with Gunk-Out and wiping.

Proceeding under the same test conditions as in test one, each test product was applied to a nail by wetting a clean, cotton patch with the product, and then carefully wiping down all surfaces of the nail. The nail was then placed on its gridded portion on the same sheet of wax paper. Again, two untreated nails were used as controls.

The sheet of nails was then misted with the saturated salt solution until uniformly coated, but not so heavily as in test one. Interestingly, while the two control nails attracted the spray and pooled it alongside, all of the products but one seemingly repelled the moisture on the wax paper from the nails.

The second test brought back the more promising and popular products, plus a few additional ones: Hoppe's Lubricating (vintage 1970s), U.S. mil-spec "LSA" Medium Weapons Oil (made by Bray Oil Co.), and CRC 5-56 Lubricant. The latter is a spray commonly available in auto supply stores.

The test nails were allowed to dry, and the formation of salt crystals on all of the nails was then apparent. The nails were misted again with salt spray every five to six hours.

Observations were made after five (5) hours and after 29 hours. Again, I rank them according to my subjective observations:

Sustained Exposure After 5 hours After 29 hours
Best
Eezox No rust, bright No rust, bright
Break Free CLP No rust, bright No rust, bright
Excellent
Break Free LP No rust, bright Trace rust freckling
Very Good
LSA Medium Weapons Oil No rust, bright Some freckling, small rust spot
WD-40 Trace freckling Some rust freckling, few spots
Good
RemOil No rust, bright Some rust freckling
TW25-B No rust, bright Some rust spots and freckling
Fair
Rust Prevent Trace rust freckling Significant coverage with rust spots
Maybe
CRC 5-56 No rust, bright Freckling; rust strip 1/3 of bottom
Sheath Trace rust freckling Rust spots & freckling
Unsatisfactory
Hoppe's Lubricating Significant rust on bottom About 50% rust covered
3-in-One Oil Significant rust spots More than 50% rust covered

After noting my finding on the second test, I decided to see how long it would take to get Eezox and Break Free CLP treated metal to start to rust. I continued to mist the nails twice a day with the salt solution. Amazingly, after one full week, the Eezox nail was still bright and shiny, while the CLP started to show a mere trace of rust freckling. Clearly, Eezox was the winner of my tests, followed closely by CLP.

After writing up my notes on the second test, I returned to the work shop with my test nail sheet and decided that instead of unceremoniously dumping the nails... as I had done after the first test... I would see if I could get the CLP or Eezox to rust. Over the course of another week I misted the sheet with the same salt spray solution at least once, sometimes twice, a day. I was a little less scientific and methodical here, as this final round was sort of just for the heck of it.

Towards the end of the second week I started to notice some freckling on the CLP nail. By day seven of supplemental testing (and day 14 total), the CLP nail was starting to show light, but noticeable, rust coating most of the nail. Amazingly, the Eezox nail was still clean. It had a fair coating of salt crystals, but not even a trace of rust.

The test could have continued, but there was no point in doing so. Two weeks of repeated exposure to a heavy salt solution without cleaning and application of a preservative is a more extreme situation than any I can imagine finding with one of my guns.
 
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