Rust removal

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Oct 14, 2016
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Any advice for what to do with this knife would be appreciated.

1. Leave it as is
2. Remove the rust and leave it like it is after
that
3. Clean the knife entirely the best I can and
keep it that way to the best of my ability
What do you guys think




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That guy Rick that restores on TV showed using crumpled up aluminum foil to remove rust without scratching. Disclaimer: I haven't tried it.
 
Clean it up, you can probably make it pretty nice with a little work. Sounds like a fun project to me.
 
0e32e0d37eb30eec2603ee96c416601d.jpg

ed161fdd5f8bb7ef1c88b8a21f00c82d.jpg
a3da787b779b9918f18067065191bbfa.jpg

Any advice for what to do with this knife would be appreciated.

1. Leave it as is
2. Remove the rust and leave it like it is after
that
3. Clean the knife entirely the best I can and
keep it that way to the best of my ability
What do you guys think




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Looks like a nice knife. If you just want to remove the apparent rust, that's easy. Start with the finest steel wool you can get your hands on. Try that. Then go to some basic scotch brite dishwashing pads. Then go to some 1500 or higher grit sandpaper from autozone. One of those will work. I doubt Simichrome or whatever will do what you need.

If you want to get ALL of the rust, including under the handles, you may want to consider sending it to a professional who knows how to take it apart, clean it, and reset a new stainless or nickel silver pin into the bolster when putting it back together.

Personally I'd opt for option 3 for myself to get it back to original shape. It's a nice looking knife and probably deserves better than what you know how to do at this point. No offense. I wouldn't really know exactly how to tear it apart, fix it, and put it together, either.

While you're at it you may consider getting a new handled material, like mammoth tooth or something. That's a little easier to do than resetting the pins so it shouldn't cost much more than the cost of supplies plus some labor costs.
 
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Was thinking of mixing a batch of ed's red and using that. Not sure what material the handle is though and it may be damaged by kerosene and don't want to do that


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The handle is saw-cut cow bone. Looks like a beautiful piece of bone, too. The lengthwise gouge in it is probably from the original marrow of the bone, so you have what is referred to as a soup bone handle.

I'd use some fine steel wool on the rusted areas to loosen it up. Then use a penetrating oil of some sort directly on a cloth and rub away the remaining red rust. The black rust is patina and is harmless, and many people like the looks of it. Put some mineral oil in the pivot and go.

That blade looks like it has most of its life ahead of it still. If the backspring is still good and it has decent snap, hell I'd say sharpen it up and use it.

If I had that one I would use some Renaissance Wax on the handle which would bring back the beauty of the bone, and do the light rust removal I mentioned, but I would go light on/skip the overall buffing back to new. Unless that's what you want.

You can ruin the collector value by trying to fully restore it. Just clean it up but no polishing or buffing. But if it's a knife for you, then the only thing that matters is what you like and want.

That is really a great knife from Case's 1920-1940 "tested" era.
 
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What you really want to do first is kill the rust. Metal Rescue and Evapo-Rust are both great products. Then see what you have.
 
Before using any abrasives, soak in vinegar and see how much of the rust comes off.
 
Scrub the rust with 0000 steel wool, dry.
Then, use WD 40 or Kroil on a coarse cloth to scrub at the rust.
Then, post a picture.
Your knife will never look new, but it will look a lot better.
I do knife restoration for a living, by the way.
 
Used some break free and a penetrating oil made by kimbal Midwest and a old dish towel tonight a bit of the rust came off easily and now some 3n1 on the hinge point and inside the handle to break some more rust loose from inside it


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Starting the project tonight gonna see how this turns out


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Used some break free and a penetrating oil made by kimbal Midwest and a old dish towel tonight a bit of the rust came off easily and now some 3n1 on the hinge point and inside the handle to break some more rust loose from inside it.
I would continue with breakfree. Apply, let sit for 24 hours, wipe.... repeat. Do this for a week.
A 24 hour soak in white vinegar is an accelerated version, but more intrusive, and might be necessary for deep pitting.
Steel wool and fine crocus cloth is also your friend.
 
Post this in the traditionals forum, they do stuff like this a lot. That's a nice knife, and if I remember right Case has a data base and can tell you what years they made that knife. If not, someone in the traditionals will be able to figure it out.
 
OP, you can use wooden coffee stirrers to get at the inside of the backsprings. If I'm cleaning a very old or rare knife, I start with a paste of dish soap and baking soda for a very mild abrasive scrubbing and to neutralize anything acidic that may be on the steel.

Scrub the rust with 0000 steel wool, dry.
Then, use WD 40 or Kroil on a coarse cloth to scrub at the rust.
Then, post a picture.
Your knife will never look new, but it will look a lot better.
I do knife restoration for a living, by the way.

Bill, I have a question, if you don't mind. I often find myself trying to remove rust from old knives while attempting to leave the patina and minimize any additional scratching. I've used steel wool with oil, but you say to use the steel wood dry. Is it more or less abrasive without oil? Or is there some other reason?

I don't do knife restoration professionally, but I enjoy it as a hobby, so I appreciate any advice. :)
 
Using steel wool with oil makes an abrasive paste of iron oxide.
Knock the rust off dry, blow/wipe it off, then use oil.
Using vinegar will etch the steel, leaving it grey.
 
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Using steel wool with oil makes an abrasive paste of iron oxide.
Knock the rust off dry, blow/wipe it off, then use oil.
Using vinegar will etch the steel, living it grey.

That makes sense, thanks.
 
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