Rust spots slowly showing up on my Satin 5160 Blade!

[KnifeFury]

I have a Custom Ranger blade made of 5160 with a Satin Finish.

I have kept the knife well oiled, although in the sheath that it came with (nylon with plastic insert) and slowly over time more and more small black spots have been showing up on the blade.

I have tried different types of oil: WD-40, Rem Oil, & Hanwei Sword Oil. I have also tried storing it outside of the sheath.

Two questions:
(1) With a non-stainless carbon steel blade like 5160 what is the best way to protect / store the blade to avoid this?

(2) What is the best way to clean up the blade without smearing the area and ruining the finish (ie having to redo the complete finish). Note that it does not appear to be pitting.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[orca8589]

There is a material called renaissance wax (or 'micro-crystalline wax') that was developed to coat blades, armor, and other metal relics in museums, but it works on literally just about everything. It's not easy to get (I've never seen it retail) but you can probably get it online. Try woodfinishsupply.com. My mother works at a heritage museum in NC and they use it on some of their items.

If you've invested in a custom knife, I would think that this will probably be the best bet for mid- to long-term storage.

Hope that help . . .

thx - cpr

 

[johnu2]

There is a material called renaissance wax

That stuff is the best. Lasts for quite a while. Its best for knives that are going to be stored long term or for knives that are used infrequently since it is quite expensive

 

[Dr. Mudd]

You may want to contact Militec-1 and CorrosionX online and request free samples. Militec-1 has both a grease and a liquid.

 

[KnifeFury]

That stuff is the best. Lasts for quite a while. Its best for knives that are going to be stored long term or for knives that are used infrequently since it is quite expensive

After some quick web searching...
http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html
..For Use On: ..Knives, Swords, Armor; ..
http://www.knifeart.com/renaissancewax1.html
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3235

I think I will definately order a 200ml Ren Wax can and try it out. How easy is this to remove, or is it more of a permanent coating?

Thanks again for the lead!

 

[johnu2]

No worries. Its not permanent but it does last a long time

 

[Kevin Jones]

After some quick web searching...
http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html
..For Use On: ..Knives, Swords, Armor; ..
http://www.knifeart.com/renaissancewax1.html
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3235

I think I will definately order a 200ml Ren Wax can and try it out. How easy is this to remove, or is it more of a permanent coating?

Thanks again for the lead!

A cleaning with windex will take it off.

I'm a little confused by Ren wax though, as it will leave a nice clear semi-glossy finish on some damascus steels, however will leave a cloudy or hazy finish on others? I believe I'm applying it evenly and correctly.

That's important that you use it sparingly and buff off excess before it dries.
I actually contacted the company that makes it and they e-mailed me a very detailed instruction sheet for applying it.

 

[Dave_Markowitz]

You may want to contact Militec-1 and CorrosionX online and request free samples. Militec-1 has both a grease and a liquid.

Militec-1 is a good lubricant but the independent tests I've seen show poor corrosion protection.

The first thing the OP needs to do is make sure that all the rust spots are completely removed. Rust is like cancer, if you don't get it all, it'll come back. Then clean and oil the blade. If the knife won't be used for food then FP-10, Break Free, or automatic transmission fluid should provide excellent rust protection. If the knife will be used for food then use Ballistol, mineral oil, or olive oil on the blade.

 

[KnifeFury]

Militec-1 is a good lubricant but the independent tests I've seen show poor corrosion protection.

The first thing the OP needs to do is make sure that all the rust spots are completely removed. Rust is like cancer, if you don't get it all, it'll come back. Then clean and oil the blade. If the knife won't be used for food then FP-10, Break Free, or automatic transmission fluid should provide excellent rust protection. If the knife will be used for food then use Ballistol, mineral oil, or olive oil on the blade.

What is the best way to remove the rust? Is it just a matter of sanding the blade with light sandpaper (what grit would you recommend for a Satin finished blade?)?

Thanks again.