Rust

CJZ

Gold Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2012
Messages
3,746
Hoq do you guys go about caring for rust on your blades?
I just looked at my Mercator K55 and my Imperial Kamp King, and they seem to have rust all over the blade. What are the best metal polish and oils to use for rust prevention? Also, how exactly should I go abiut it without damaging the blade?
*insert Princess Leia voice*
Help me BFC, you're my only hope.
 
Are these food prep knives? If not, eezox works great. Another member did a rust prevention test on oils. I was sold. To take care of the rust already there, i would just use steel wool or steel wool and wd-40. Just using steel wool will leave the patina for the most part. For the wd-40, spray it, let it sit and scrub. You will have to re-sharpen (which i guess is a bad thing). If there is pitting or if it's worse than you would like, just use sand paper and finish up to a grit you like. Hope this helps.
 
Are these food prep knives? If not, eezox works great. Another member did a rust prevention test on oils. I was sold. To take care of the rust already there, i would just use steel wool or steel wool and wd-40. Just using steel wool will leave the patina for the most part. For the wd-40, spray it, let it sit and scrub. You will have to re-sharpen (which i guess is a bad thing). If there is pitting or if it's worse than you would like, just use sand paper and finish up to a grit you like. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info, no its not for food prep, and your suggestions sound as though they would scratch the blade to all high hell, is there a way around that?
 
It will, but the higher up in grit you go the less noticeable the scratches will be.
 
A 000 or 0000 steel wool shouldn't mess up the factory finish on the blades. Steel wool isn't harder than knife steel and those two specifically are really fine steel wool. Like i said, if there is pitting, use sand paper. Once you choose to use sandpaper though, you will most likely have to go up the grits to refinish the blade to what you want.
 
Thanks everyone.
I wiped the blades down with paper towels (some 3in1 oil on the paper towels), then used steel wool to get rid of the more stubborn rist that wouldnt come off with paper towels. The blades look fine, thanks for the advice everyone! :)
 
In addition to everything above,
I have used Bluemagic/simichrome/MAAS with piece of leather or Dremel to remove blackened pitting in the past.
 
check out E.D.C by Aegis Solutions Knife Care. It is my company and it is an extremely lightweight, food safe, environmentally friendly, rust solution. In my testing it has beat (slightly) conventional oils that most people use for anything including firearms maintenance. It is just barely getting its name out there so check it out if you want something lightweight =] Our website is http://aegissolutionsknifecare.com/ if you're interested.
 
Are these food prep knives? If not, eezox works great. Another member did a rust prevention test on oils. I was sold. To take care of the rust already there, i would just use steel wool or steel wool and wd-40. Just using steel wool will leave the patina for the most part. For the wd-40, spray it, let it sit and scrub. You will have to re-sharpen (which i guess is a bad thing). If there is pitting or if it's worse than you would like, just use sand paper and finish up to a grit you like. Hope this helps.

I would go with a metal finishing pad instead of the steel wool. Another forum member posted that and I've been using it ever since. :thumbup:
 
How do I keep my new arch enemy from ever returning?
 
How do I keep my new arch enemy from ever returning?

I probably over do it but I wipe all of my knives down with a bit of WD-40 every week... Mind you I do live in a high salt environment. I've seen rust appear on some knives in just a few weeks time of sitting out. Others may argue for other lubricants/preservatives, I encourage you listen to them also... Maybe you can find a hybrid of my routine and theirs that will fit your needs/environment.
 
I probably over do it but I wipe all of my knives down with a bit of WD-40 every week... Mind you I do live in a high salt environment. I've seen rust appear on some knives in just a few weeks time of sitting out. Others may argue for other lubricants/preservatives, I encourage you listen to them also... Maybe you can find a hybrid of my routine and theirs that will fit your needs/environment.

I feel your pain.
Salt water canal in my backyard, it causes my knives much distress.
I've stopped buying carbon bladed knives simply because they rust faster than I can maintain them.
:(
 
A friend of mine put me onto Inox. It seems to leave a lasting slick finish on steel which prevents rust, helps remove rust and is apparently non toxic. There is also a food grade version which I have not yet been able to find.
It is also great for cleaning ceramic rods
 
Is it rust or just a dark patina showing up on the blades. Rust will be reddish in color, but a patina will be a dark grey color. If it is a patina forming, it will act as a rust (red rust) preventive. Some members on here force a patina on their carbon blades to protect from further rust. Flitz metal polish or Mothers metal polish will remove most rust and natural patina, leaving a polished blade close to what it was when new if that is what is desired. A little applied wax will help keep the blade looking clean. Wipe them down after every use and make sure they are clean and dry and stored inside a temperature controlled area. Don't leave them in a leather sheath in storage or they will rust also. You may know all of this already, but it is the basics of good knife care, especially for traditionals and carbon blades.

Blessings,

Omar
 
Is it rust or just a dark patina showing up on the blades. Rust will be reddish in color, but a patina will be a dark grey color. If it is a patina forming, it will act as a rust (red rust) preventive. Some members on here force a patina on their carbon blades to protect from further rust. Flitz metal polish or Mothers metal polish will remove most rust and natural patina, leaving a polished blade close to what it was when new if that is what is desired. A little applied wax will help keep the blade looking clean. Wipe them down after every use and make sure they are clean and dry and stored inside a temperature controlled area. Don't leave them in a leather sheath in storage or they will rust also. You may know all of this already, but it is the basics of good knife care, especially for traditionals and carbon blades.

Blessings,

Omar

Thats the problem. It looked like surface rust to me, so I took aome steel wool and got rid of it. The downside is that the blade is completely dull, and has plenty of scratching...
Not sure if its rust or patina, pretty sure its rust.
It couldnt be patina, could it?
I barely use it anymore, it just sits in the toolbox.
Every other day I check it, and every couple of days there is new rust. Ive taken a Blue Lube soaked paper towel and wiped the blade down, then drying with a clean paper towel. I thought that would help prevent. It kind of did, but not completely.


If it helps, my windows are often open and I live on a salty canal.
Also, there are Zippos and Zippo fluid in my toolbox.
Could the fluid escaping the Zippos possibly be effecting my knives?
 
Thats the problem. It looked like surface rust to me, so I took aome steel wool and got rid of it. The downside is that the blade is completely dull, and has plenty of scratching...
Not sure if its rust or patina, pretty sure its rust.
It couldnt be patina, could it?
I barely use it anymore, it just sits in the toolbox.
Every other day I check it, and every couple of days there is new rust. Ive taken a Blue Lube soaked paper towel and wiped the blade down, then drying with a clean paper towel. I thought that would help prevent. It kind of did, but not completely.


If it helps, my windows are often open and I live on a salty canal.
Also, there are Zippos and Zippo fluid in my toolbox.
Could the fluid escaping the Zippos possibly be effecting my knives?

Rust will always (always, always) be either red or brownish in color. The 'patina' that us knife nuts like to apply will always be black, grey, blue, purple (depending on light conditions). Take a look at the questionable spots with a magnifier under very BRIGHT light. If you see any red or brown at all, that's rust. The rust will also not be as strongly bonded to the steel, because of the destructive nature of how it forms (the resulting oxide compound separates from the steel, resulting in pitting). So, if you scrub the blade with a white paper towel or white rag, using some oil or WD-40 or something similar (or baking soda), the red/brown rust will always be more prevalent on the stained paper towel/rag afterwards. That's a very easy way, in fact, to see if there is any rust on your blade. If you see any red or brown stain on it after wiping with oil or a solvent, there's no doubt.

The lighter fluid shouldn't be adversely contributing to the rust. In fact, lighter fluid is a pretty effective solvent for removing it (much like WD-40). If you live by a salty canal, and the knife spends a lot of time in the toolbox (I'm assuming it's outside, or otherwise not in the controlled environment of your house), that would definitely be enough exposure to generate the new rust. I've even had a stainless knife (Victorinox SAK) rust under similar conditions (toolbox in a pickup, outside in humid air), even without the salty air exposure.


David
 
check out E.D.C by Aegis Solutions Knife Care. It is my company and it is an extremely lightweight, food safe, environmentally friendly, rust solution. In my testing it has beat (slightly) conventional oils that most people use for anything including firearms maintenance. It is just barely getting its name out there so check it out if you want something lightweight =] Our website is http://aegissolutionsknifecare.com/ if you're interested.
I tried to order from your website... But I live in Sweden so I couldn't order one..? Can you help?
 
If you scrub rust with oil and steel wool, you make an abrasive paste that will scratch your blade. Steel wool should be used dry. THEN use WD 40 or similar on a rag.
 
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