Rust!

K

KFU

Part Time Knifemaker, Moderator
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Sep 10, 2007
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My grandfather recently passed away and left me a Case Congress with carbon blades. I won't go into all the details, but it had seen better days, but the blades haven't seen much use. I want to get it in good working order to carry so I sanded the blades to remove rust and polished the bolsters. Two of the blades are impossible to open without pliers so I put some Marvels oil in there to sit. It helped a little, but they still are very hard to open. They all still have good walk and talk and I kind of like the stains to the blades, but would like to free up those two blades. Any suggestions?
 
I would try some rust penetrating oil to atleast get them operable...something like wd40...but then make sure you clean out the wd40, and use something else to lube them (wd40 left in the mechanism can end up gunking it up; only use it to penetrate the rust)
 
A good washing with hot water and soap in the joints and down around the back springs will release more crud than you could ever imagine.
After doing that a few times, make sure to get as much water out as you can, and then toss the whole thing in a mineral oil bath and let it sit for a couple days.

After you have done that, start working each blade back and forth at least 100 times on each blade. Full open to closed. It won't hurt to add some more oil in the joints and down into the back springs as you are doing this to help work it into the joints really well.

You may not be able to get the blades as loose as you would like because some knives just have very strong springs, but it should make a big difference.

Its always cool to carry a knife that has sentimental attachment.

Pics are always great
 
I soak bone or man-made scale "rust buckets" in mineral oil for a week or so. Then hot soapy water, toothbursh treatment followed my good oiling. I use a small glass square bowl and just let it sink to the bottom completely covered.
300bucks
 
Mineral oil is not a good penetrant. WD 40 works much better. WD 40 won't "gunk it up."
Washing with Detergent and hot water can help. Dry well, and THEN soak with WD 40 to remove residual moisture.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
WD 40 won't "gunk it up."
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I've never had issues with wd40 (because I know how to use it), but if you let overly done wd40 sit, it will attract dust and what not, which will gunk up your mechanism...(atleast thats what I've read)


I usually give my blades themselves a nice thin coat of wd40 to keep 'em rust free, but I lube the action with pure excess industries pure lube (supposed to be made for paintball markers)
 
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I like using PB Blaster for that kind of stuff. it breaks down the rust the more you move the blade and protects the oil as well as lubricating. Good stuff.
 
I tried all of your suggestions. I had a little Breakfree CLP that I use for guns and started with that. It is now in a jar of mineral spirits which will be followed up with more CLP a good wipe down and some dry lube. We will see if it works. I did notice the jar has turned brown in color and there are deposits on the bottom. I hope its not the scales falling apart!
 
Bowdenknxvll@comcast said:
I tried all of your suggestions. I had a little Breakfree CLP that I use for guns and started with that. It is now in a jar of mineral spirits which will be followed up with more CLP a good wipe down and some dry lube. We will see if it works. I did notice the jar has turned brown in color and there are deposits on the bottom. I hope its not the scales falling apart!
Click to expand...

man i hope you meant to type mineral oil, mineral spirits is a solvent:eek: I would imagine that it might be a little "hot", then again ive never tried it...
works great on my paint brushes, dunno bout knives though
best of luck and post some pictures
cheers
gene
 
Mineral spirits is fine for knives. Mineral oil does not break down rust. Mineral spirits will.
 
To loosen I would use Tri-Flow, then I would also get some of this stuff called Clean Power:

4604882129_a630209b25_z.jpg


Just rub it on the oxidized area and let it sit for a few moments. Then wipe it up with a paper towel, repeat maybe twice more. Worked on some rust with that carbon steel blade in the picture.

It'll help with the rust, you can find it at any chef shop. But definitely some Tri-Flow for the blades that won't open.
 
If nothing you're trying loosens the pivots you might try applying flitz or simichrome to the contact area where the blade rides against the spring. Doing that and working the blades open and closed repeatedly has freed up several for me.
 
The best process I know of for removing rust with no damage to the non-ferrous remaining parts is the 'electrolytic rust removal' technique. Just google 'electrolytic rust removal' and there are plenty of internet sources. The process is used by archeologists/anthropologists for the recovery and preservation of ferrous artifacts. All the process does is removes or converts the rust into a different chemical compound which is easily removed. I have a document which is a compilation of several internet sources that I will share with you. Just drop me a PM or an email. It's about 40 pages or so.
 
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