Rusted Folder Needs Some TLC

Maverick299

Maverick299

Joined
Apr 12, 2014
Messages
801
I found this one in a drawer and am pretty sure it belonged to my grandfather. Problem is that she's rusted shut. The blades don't appear fused to the liner or to each other, but they sure don't want to open. What's the best course of action here? Soak in oil bath, or would that ruin the scales?

Does anyone know what it is from the shield?

(sorry about the rotated pics.......cell phone)



 
I would guess it's an Imperial.
I would spray some penetrating oil on it and let it sit a bit if it doesn't open right up. Liquid wrench or I forget what I got last time because they didn't have LW. Some would use WD40 for this, but I don't think it's as good. Some would soak in mineral oil, but I think that's slower.
That knife looks to be in pretty good shape- nice find.
 
scrteened porch said:
I would spray some penetrating oil on it and let it sit a bit if it doesn't open right up. Liquid wrench or I forget what I got last time because they didn't have LW.
Click to expand...

PB Blaster?? I use PB all the time on rusted stuff.:thumbup:

BTW - IF.. that was my knife, I would soak the whole thing in PB Blaster overnight.
 
In such "cases" I´d recommend WD-40 and a lot of it. It will remove the rust and let the springs and pivots work again - at least you will be able to open it. After that I´d give the knife a nice spa treatment with mineral oil and sharping.

It also looks like an Imperial to me. Great knife :)
 
Along with what everyone else has said, after spraying the joints with some type of lubricant, I am often able to open the blades easier if I first compress the blades down into the spring. It kind of breaks thing free in the opposite direction.

I wouldn't necessarily soak the whole knife in anything. The covers of that knife are a cell/plastic wrapped around stamped shell covers. If you get the penetrant underneath those cell wraps, it may be difficult to completely flush it out after and your knife will always smell like whatever you bathed it in.

Be sure to show us some "after" pics.
 
Thanks guys. I plan to go home tonight and drink a few beers and start working on this thing. I can't say with 100% proof it was my grandfathers, but I am about 95% sure it was. I want to get this thing back to working order and put it into my regular carry rotation. I have a feeling when the stone starts working an edge back onto the blade he will be grinning from wherever he's at.

I will for sure post some "after pics" and maybe some "during".
 
That knife most likely dates in the 1950's-1960's. While the construction is a little cheap on the covers, that steel has always been excellent, and I think you will be pleased with how sharp it gets.
 
glennbad said:
I wouldn't necessarily soak the whole knife in anything. The covers of that knife are a cell/plastic wrapped around stamped shell covers. If you get the penetrant underneath those cell wraps, it may be difficult to completely flush it out after and your knife will always smell like whatever you bathed it in.
Click to expand...

I said IF it was MY knife I would soak it because it is rusted shut. Compressed air will bolw itout of the plastic wrapped shell liners.
 
I am often able to open the blades easier if I first compress the blades down into the spring. It kind of breaks thing free in the opposite direction.
Click to expand...


I had a few moments here at work to play with it. I tried compress it down......well more like placing the blade side down on a pad of paper and slamming it with the palm of my hand, and it worked. It must have been seized up because it popped, some rust came out, and with the aid of a SAK flat blade screwdriver/opener I was able to pry the blades open. They didn't make it easy on me.

Here's what I'm dealing with.


 
I wouldn't soak it. The scales are paper thin celluloid and that is what you don't want the oil/liquid under and blowing it out could tear the thin cell wrap. I'd soak the blades in mineral oil as well as the blade slots then work the rust off with bamboo meat screwers sharpened into little chisels. Considering the rust on the blades you may have to use very fine steel wool on the blades.

Regards

Robin
 
I would use some oil called koil from Ohio I think its the best I have seen in my 50 odd years imho
 
Thanks for posting this Maverick; I have an old Camillus from my grandpa's toolbox and it needs the same treatment (I added a picture). Coincidentally I just bought some liquid wrench to help loosen the lug nuts on my car's flat tire. Changing that tire is turning into a saga...:(

From the tang stamp I think this is from '76 on, does anoyne know if it's bone or composite? Thanks for any help.
 
Last edited:
littleman said:
I would use some oil called koil from Ohio I think its the best I have seen in my 50 odd years imho
Click to expand...

*

Bingo! Kroil is made by Kanolabs in good ole Nashville, Tn and is by far the best product I've ever seen for freeing up rusted parts. It's middle of the pack at rust prevention and downright poor at lubrication, but for penetrating and freeing up parts it has no peer. It works great for initial cleanup and removing rust and grit from the pivots on old knives and brand new ones alike (new ones don't have rust, but polishing gook and whatever else is in there).

*

After initial cleanup I use a drop either remoil, clp, 3-in-1, or good old mineral oil on the pivots. I find any of them work pretty much the same in my experience.

*

Oh, and the bamboo skewer sharpened into a chisel shape for cleaning the internals is a great trick too. It allows you to get into hard to reach places and to actually scrub off the rust with a suitable solvent (I like Kroil best, but WD40 works pretty good if the other is hard to find) without fear of damaging the patina as badly as one might with steel wool or other abrasives.

*

I'm looking forward to seeing how this knife turns out, I'm a sucker for the classics ;)
 
Looks like that'll clean up nice Maverick :thumbup:
 
buendia518 said:
Thanks for posting this Maverick; I have an old Camillus from my grandpa's toolbox and it needs the same treatment (I added a picture). Coincidentally I just bought some liquid wrench to help loosen the lug nuts on my car's flat tire. Changing that tire is turning into a saga...:(

From the tang stamp I think this is from '76 on, does anoyne know if it's bone or composite? Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

That's a nice knife. I think it's delrin, but I can't say I know it is.
 
Maverick299 said:
I found this one in a drawer and am pretty sure it belonged to my grandfather. Problem is that she's rusted shut. The blades don't appear fused to the liner or to each other, but they sure don't want to open. What's the best course of action here? Soak in oil bath, or would that ruin the scales?

Does anyone know what it is from the shield?
Click to expand...

Maverick299 said:
Thanks guys. I plan to go home tonight and drink a few beers and start working on this thing. I can't say with 100% proof it was my grandfathers, but I am about 95% sure it was. I want to get this thing back to working order and put it into my regular carry rotation. I have a feeling when the stone starts working an edge back onto the blade he will be grinning from wherever he's at.
Click to expand...

Maverick299 said:
I had a few moments here at work to play with it. I tried compress it down......well more like placing the blade side down on a pad of paper and slamming it with the palm of my hand, and it worked. It must have been seized up because it popped, some rust came out, and with the aid of a SAK flat blade screwdriver/opener I was able to pry the blades open. They didn't make it easy on me.

Here's what I'm dealing with.
Click to expand...


I will be following this thread. I am interested in seeing what method you choose and how it turns out.

BTW- what is your sharpening system you plan on using after you have finished the cleaning process? Also, do you plan on flitzing?
 
Last edited:
scrteened porch said:
That's a nice knife. I think it's delrin, but I can't say I know it is.
Click to expand...

Thank you and I appreciate the input. I was mistaken about the tang stamp and according to one source it's as early as '60-'76 which I'm happy about.


Have you started cleaning that thing up, Maverick? Thanks to this thread and the replies I've started my own cleaning project. My grandpa's knife is now relatively smooth and the small blade opens comfortably. I sprayed LiquidWrench and left it for a few hours resting on the spine, then I cleaned it with a carved skewer (credit to Pipeman) and followed with hot water and mineral oil to get rid of the smell. It's still 'bleeding' rust colored mineral oil so I might start the whole process over again. This time I think I'll go at the blades with some steel wool or sandpaper because they weren't changed by the rust remover spray.
This is such a productive way to enjoy the knife hobby. Hopefully I'll learn enough to clean up some summer garage sale/ flea market finds.
 
Last edited:
It's not perfect yet but at least she opens and closes now with a thumbnail and no longer requires tools to open!

I found some old paint in the scales you can see in the pic. It's that awful 70's avocado green color. I remember that color in my grandparents kitchen, so I am now certain that this was the knife my grandfather carried. He must have spilled some paint or had some on his hands when he picked up the knife!

She has an edge on it now and shaves paper pretty thin but I need to continue working on it. Anyone know a good way to clean up those blades?



 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top