Rusted liners

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Sep 14, 2019
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Hello I was edc ing a spyderco Endura 4 VG10 for about two weeks in my pocket and it was exposed to a bit of fresh water and mainly sweat. It now has significant rust on the liners is this normal? Also it seems like there is moisture trapped in the liners.
 
Mine do that too.

I just pull them apart and use a fine grit sandpaper followed by Flitz to clean them up.

And I do find more corrosion on the liners on the scale side. Moisture does indeed get in there.
 
There’s a trick to putting Enduras and Delicas back together.

The back spring needs to be put in last at reassembly or you will damage the spring retainer.

There’s a few write ups on this, so if you are going to do this it’s worth researching.

Or, you can always send in the knife to Spyderco and ask them for help to clean up the rust.
 
Mine do that too.

I just pull them apart and use a fine grit sandpaper followed by Flitz to clean them up.

And I do find more corrosion on the liners on the scale side. Moisture does indeed get in there.
Ah true I actually had more on the opposite side but i do have some caustic sweat.
 
I've had folders do this from pocket sweat. If you're going to be carrying and using the knife the rust will probably show back up anyway.
If you disassemble it and want the rust permanently gone, you might look into coating the liners while the knife is apart.

But like I said, if you're going to be carrying it and using it anyway, what I do is blow it out with compressed air, spray it with gun cleaner or lighter fluid,
scrub what you can with a q tip/ sand paper on a chop stick, and then soak the inside with gun oil or 3in1
continue to run a little oil and a qtip through at the end of the day.

The scales won't be pretty but a bit of a patina may develop and they're stainless anyway, the above easy maintenance steps should keep the rust under control
Rust tends to be part of using a knife for work everyday, if you did nothing you'd probably be fine but you're knife won't be as pretty.
I HATE rust but a lot of it I have to accept like I do on most of my pliers, but a patina is fun to develop and protects the metal from slap rusting away in most cases.
 
They don't use stainless steel for the liners?
Oh lord that's a good one. Friendo, are you awares what stainless steel is? Just because it has those words to it doesn't mean it's impervious to oxidation, it just means there's a sizable amount of chromium. stainless != stainless.
 
I've had folders do this from pocket sweat. If you're going to be carrying and using the knife the rust will probably show back up anyway.
If you disassemble it and want the rust permanently gone, you might look into coating the liners while the knife is apart.

But like I said, if you're going to be carrying it and using it anyway, what I do is blow it out with compressed air, spray it with gun cleaner or lighter fluid,
scrub what you can with a q tip/ sand paper on a chop stick, and then soak the inside with gun oil or 3in1
continue to run a little oil and a qtip through at the end of the day.

The scales won't be pretty but a bit of a patina may develop and they're stainless anyway, the above easy maintenance steps should keep the rust under control
Rust tends to be part of using a knife for work everyday, if you did nothing you'd probably be fine but you're knife won't be as pretty.
I HATE rust but a lot of it I have to accept like I do on most of my pliers, but a patina is fun to develop and protects the metal from slap rusting away in most cases.
Thanks for the advice. I did do the old put it under the tap cleaning method and I think maybe it didn’t dry very well and my sweat in this Singaporean summer cannot help too. I think a patina is the way to go.
 
Oh lord that's a good one. Friendo, are you awares what stainless steel is? Just because it has those words to it doesn't mean it's impervious to oxidation, it just means there's a sizable amount of chromium. stainless != stainless.
I am well aware "stainless" is really "Stain Less".
However, I have had some low/bottom end "Leto"(?) brand 100% stainless boat knives (sheepsfoot blade, marlin spike, (one had a deck key wrench, too) that did not rust/corrode, even in St. Croix, USVI, or on the voyage from St. Croix to Tampa, Florida.
(Saltwater every inch of the way)
Yes, they were exposed ("dunked" would not be an inappropriate term) in saltwater and "put away wet". They were not a (allegedly "rust-proof") 304 stainless, either.
I just find it surprising that a high dollar (they are to me) Spiderco would suffer from rust/corrosion.
 
That is why Spyderco has their Salt lineup, specifically designed for use around water/salt water.

Jim

I recently sent Spyderco my dad's original Salt 1. It's been stored on his boat for 15 years or so, so it had seen a lot of exposure to salt air. The spring and lockbar were rusted, and since it was pinned construction, I didn't want to mess with disassembling to try cleaning it up, so emailed them asking how to get the current screw-together hardware - I was told to send it in. I got a box from them yesterday with a letter about how the knife had been misused and shouldn't be covered under warranty, but that they were graciously honoring the warranty and replacing the knife. That got a big eyeroll from me, but dad will be happy with a new knife. Supposedly, they've changed the material for the springs/lockbars/liners on the Salt knives over the years to something more corrosion resistant.
 
I am well aware "stainless" is really "Stain Less".
However, I have had some low/bottom end "Leto"(?) brand 100% stainless boat knives (sheepsfoot blade, marlin spike, (one had a deck key wrench, too) that did not rust/corrode, even in St. Croix, USVI, or on the voyage from St. Croix to Tampa, Florida.
(Saltwater every inch of the way)
Yes, they were exposed ("dunked" would not be an inappropriate term) in saltwater and "put away wet". They were not a (allegedly "rust-proof") 304 stainless, either.
I just find it surprising that a high dollar (they are to me) Spiderco would suffer from rust/corrosion.
I have fairly caustic sweat likely from my terrible diet.
 
I am well aware "stainless" is really "Stain Less".
However, I have had some low/bottom end "Leto"(?) brand 100% stainless boat knives (sheepsfoot blade, marlin spike, (one had a deck key wrench, too) that did not rust/corrode, even in St. Croix, USVI, or on the voyage from St. Croix to Tampa, Florida.
(Saltwater every inch of the way)
Yes, they were exposed ("dunked" would not be an inappropriate term) in saltwater and "put away wet". They were not a (allegedly "rust-proof") 304 stainless, either.
I just find it surprising that a high dollar (they are to me) Spiderco would suffer from rust/corrosion.
The brand doesn't mean it's non-corrosive or non-oxidation. Got to buy salt, caribbean, the tusk, or the chef to be free from rust and spots if you want a spydie to do that. Sadly G-Sakai's VG-10 are not free from it but does a great job keeping it off. Still think Spydie uses 440 dogcrap for their liners. My bolster on my EDC milli is rusted.
 
I have a couple Spyderco Salts, Native 5 Salt with LC200N blade, Para 3 Salt with magnacut blade, Spyderco Spydiechef with LC200N blade. I have carried these in my pocket and sweated heavily on them, not to mention being drenched in water and saltwater. Put away wet. So far none of them has developed any rust, neither on the blade, nor the handle furniture, including the liners.
 
I have a couple Spyderco Salts, Native 5 Salt with LC200N blade, Para 3 Salt with magnacut blade, Spyderco Spydiechef with LC200N blade. I have carried these in my pocket and sweated heavily on them, not to mention being drenched in water and saltwater. Put away wet. So far none of them has developed any rust, neither on the blade, nor the handle furniture, including the liners.
On the salt models with lc200n they also use 200n as the liner material. I know they do that on the caribbean.

Oh and this thread was 4 years old
 
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