Rusty old gun

S

Shann

Joined
Sep 2, 2004
Messages
5,251
My mother has my late father's old S&W .38. It is pretty much completely rusted shut, I can't get the cylinder to open. The bad part is that it is loaded. Its not worth anything but as noted, its my dead Dad's so it has some sentimental value. Is there any way to safely get it so that I can get the cylinder open and remove the bullets?
 
Soak it in oil for a few days~ week.

You may be able to move it after that time, but if you can't the oil should have penetrated the primers of the ammunition, and rendered them inert.

Take care,

John
 
Spectre said:
Soak it in oil for a few days~ week.

You may be able to move it after that time, but if you can't the oil should have penetrated the primers of the ammunition, and rendered them inert.

Take care,

John
Click to expand...

Are you sure that it would, John? There might be some danger in the second half of this advice: I read on tests where cartridges were soaked in boiling water for hours and that had very limited effect on their usability.
 
Soak in a rust remover, out of the house, pointed in a safe direction.
 
Instead of just any oil I would soak it in WD-40. You can buy it in gallons I know for sure and maybe quarts, not so sure.
But it would be worth soaking it in the WD-40. If anything can loosen the rust where the cylinder can be moved it should be able to. Leave it two weeks or a month if a week doesn't do it. You needn't be in a hurry with it, hell leave it six months or a year if that's what it takes.;)
It's possible with a long enough soak and gently working the parts that will move that eventually you might even be able to unload it.

Edit:
tsf has a valid point too. Rust remover may be better than the Wd-40.:D
 
I think any "triple-action" type oil- CLP, WD-40, etc, with a "penetrative" quality, should work for rendering the ammo harmless, but regardless, there's a pretty good chance the cylinder will move after soaking.

I personally don't like using WD-40 on firearms anymore. CLP would probably be my first choice, or something similar.

I'm not sure how "harsh" rust removers will be on the metal, so I didn't suggest that, just since I have no experience with most of them. They may work fine; dunno.

John
 
Penetrating oil will render primers inert--for as long as they are wet. Once the priming compound is dry, it should be "live" again. Now, I have no idea how much oil can evaporate inside an assembled cartridge...but I am always wary of "deactivating" ammo via this method.

I expect penetrating oil will free up the cylinder anyway.
 
bismark77 said:
Penetrating oil will render primers inert--for as long as they are wet . . . I expect penetrating oil will free up the cylinder anyway.
Click to expand...

Agreed; my favorite penetrating oil is "Kroil" made by Kano Laboratories in TN. Works like a charm. I can't begin to tell you of all the times that stuff has got me out of a jam, and I have no doubt that a soaking in Kroil with the grips removed will free up that stick cylinder latch.

Noah
 
I've used a few heavy duty rust removers in the past. They're toxic, dangerous, produce some pretty nasty vapors and will etch the surface of the steel fairly easily. (In fact, these are exactly what I use for my quick 'n' dirty etches on blades - it takes less than thirty seconds.) I wouldn't recommend using something this harsh on a firearm. CLP and a toothbrush should remove everything but the pitting.

I'll second the penetrating oil suggestions. Bear in mind that it might not inert the ammo - it should, but I've seen ammunition do some very odd things in the past. Your local police department may have guidance on how best to dispose of it.
 
1. I wouldn't use rust removers
2. I would use an oil
3. I go with Spectre on deactivating the ammo with oil, but would be cautious about whether or not they're deactivated. They should be.

After the gun has been soaked, you'll be surprised. I'm not saying it is, but it could be the firearm wil be able to function again. After you have it examined by a competent gunsmith.

munk
 
When it comes to using that ammo on purpose (e.g. self defense) assume it is deactivated. As far as using it accidentally (e.g. kids playing with it) assume it is live.
 
Evapo-Rust

www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263182
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=276175


will 'dissolve' the red rust overnight

non-toxic
non-reactive with propellant (it's a water solution)

once out of the evaporust
rinse in 70% isopropyl alcohol
get it mostly dry
spray with wd-40 or other displacer
again dry it
dip in melted chocolate
then into ground nuts
chill in the fridge for at least 30 minutes
dip in oil


~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<>they call me 'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-tWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
PLEASE TAKE THAT GUN TO A COMPETENT GUNSMITH AND DONT MESS WITH IT ANYMORE.
Seriously, a loaded gun thats got "problems" is dangerous and a gunsmith will know how to fix it without causing any damage to the gun or accidentally shooting your cat.
Please take it to a gunsmith!

(Caps were because I care)
 
Spectre said:
I'm not sure how "harsh" rust removers will be on the metal, so I didn't suggest that, just since I have no experience with most of them. They may work fine; dunno.

John
Click to expand...
Good point, I was thinking of the more gentler ones like the ones used on a car to loosen a rusty bolt. I agree, don't put anything you don't want stripped in a harsh rust remover.:rolleyes:
 
Danny,

Everyone knows you care. Thanks for caring.

No-one's talking about trying to shoot the firearm (unless, potentially, AFTER it has been inspected by a competent 'smith). We're only talking about unloading it. We're trying to de-mystify firearms; there are no genii, no elves, nothing magical about their operation. They are, especially most handguns, fairly simple mechanically. All we're talking about, is opening a cylinder.

There is no way a revolver can fire with the hammer down unless (possibly) it's dropped in such a way to strike a solid blow on the hammer, and with transfer bar technology, even that should not result in a discharge. Caution is warranted with any power tool; hysteria is not.

Respectfully,

John
 
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It's just not worth the risk, to yourself or to the gun.
Do me favor and take it to a gunsmith. Hell, he might have a box of stuff for it thats been sitting around that nobody wanted.
I am all for demystification, but respect for firearms cannot be overestimated.
Please take it to the doctor!
 
Good advice has been given.

If after the oil treatment it still doesn't open, then a trip to the smith may be in order. revolvers of that type can sometimes have the ejector rod unscrew gradually over time to the point that the cylinder can't be opened any more. The rod protrudes too far. depending on how the rod is housed, sometimes it can be carefully screwed back in, then the cylinder will open again.
If the ejector is shrouded, it can be tough, but it is possible to get it done.

Hope that isn't the problem, but just thought you should know, in case the oil soak doesn't free it to open.

Tom
 
Liquid Wrench in an aerosol can be bought at Wallyworld or auto supply stores. It is one of the best penetrating liquids obtainable. I have seen it work when Kroil (which I use mostly) wouldn't. It will unstick your gun and probably render the primers inert at the same time.
 
Good advice all around. The only thing that I would worry about with soaking in a solvent is damage to a finish. Ask a gunsmith what he thinks.

No matter what, you ought to take it in to the ole' gun doc. Have him give it the once over, twice.

On a similar note, I just got my grandfather's old WWII Webley .38 revolver. It's in perfect shape, but I think I'll take it somewhere to get it confirmed as to its status before I do anything with it. Neat gun though... You break the frame in half to access the cylinder rather than pop the cylinder out the side of the frame. Nice, old world feel to it.
 
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