S&W SWAT?

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paddyboy30

Joined
Jun 29, 2004
Messages
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I'm pretty knew to the world of tactical / general purpose knives, and I don't know that much about them. I'm looking at getting a decent folder, and came across the S&W SWAT model. It has some of the features I really want, like a partially serrated blade, and I like the teflon coating on it. I was looking at the one with a Tanto point. Does anyone have any experience with this knife that could tell me anything I should know before buying one? Thanks!
 
I had the all-stainless S&W SWAT Practical Tactical frame lock, and actually, it was a pretty damn good folder!..I recently "lost" it on a trade.:).
 
It's nice, some of my SAR buddies have them. It's not extremely great, but you're not paying that much for it, either. If you shop around, a lot of places will have them engraved with cool logos on them, too. My STO has one from the Ohio State Highway Patrol that he picked up from their visitor's center. .
 
They are low end of the scale for the most part, not bad in execution and materials but not something I'd stake my life on.

I know lots of cops who carry them based on their brandname and their price point in the market.

Brownie
 
In my own experience none of the s & w swat or any other of their line have reliable locks. They (the locks) seem to hold the blade open better than a slip joint but not by a whole lot. It is possible I've gotten bad ones, but of the 5 or 6 I've gotten I just tune up the mechanism and they're a whole lot better after that. Their black blade coatings don't seem to very long but it's usually 440c which is pretty stainless. So if you don't mind tuning the locks yourself I say go for it.
 
When you say "tuning the locks," what do you mean? Sorry if I seem a little dumb here, but I've learned that the only stupid question is the one that's not asked. Thanks for all the replies! From what I hear, it's a pretty good knife for the money. I'm starting to lean toward this, since my budget doesn't really let me go above $50 for a folder right now. Maybe in a few years I can justify more than $100 for a knife, but right now I can't.
 
paddyboy30, I have a frame lock like Glockman99, (S&W Tanto/swat) all grey metal frame and it is a very good knife for the money, not sure what kind of steel in the blade, kind of hard to sharpen but does pretty good for a EDC knock around blade.

Robbie Roberson ;)
 
Hello,
Tuning linerlock/framelock knives is a very simple affair.
1. Open the knife and wearing very durable gloves or holding it very carefully so that your fingers are not in the way should the blade close, strike down on a soft yet firm surface (newspaper on a table) within 1" of the tip a few times. does it close? If yes continue to step 2. If not you got a good one.
2. See which way the liner failed. If it returned home to the closed position you can fix it. if it went to the opposite side than it should be at any time send it back for refund.
3. Disassamble knife. (pocket clip then scales then liners, etc. saving all pieces and remembering where they go.
4. Using a file or some sturdy abrasive, roughen up the contact points on the blade and liner. (Part where the liner touches the blade in order to lock it up.) When it is sufficiently "roughened" and the liner contact point is maybe slightly shortened (Not very much at all.)
5. Reassemble knife and test again.

Over time you will get a feel for just how much is needed and how to attain what you want. It can be quite fun. Personally I get the same satisfaction from tuning up a liner lock as I get from a VCR that doesn't blink 12:00 repeatedly! Hope this helps.

P.S. If you want to keep the joints free moving and dust free check out Sentry Solutions (It's all I ever use on knives, guns and even the dot matrix printer at work!)
 
Robbie Roberson:

That has been my experience with the Smith knives as well.

Framelocks were solid while I owned the two given me by S+W, they would make a good knockaround as you mention.

They are not something I'd being trusting my life to though. One I gave an officer and he has carried it and abused it through neglect to the point the blade finish is not protecting the steel and he has major rust issues [ which he could care less about ].

Thank goodness I did not give him something better.

Brownie
 
I have a SWAT that I purchased when I first got into knives. Opening is buttery smooth, but the liner lock is quite bad. The fit and finish was very bad. I never tested the blade much, as the lock scared the crap out me too much to play with it.
 
I'll jump on the bandwagon. I've only had one, and I was underwhelmed enough not to get anymore. The lock was bad. Really bad. It barely engaged at all, but it was easily fixed by bending the spring a little. The knife did not come sharp, and the edge bevels were very uneven. After essentially reprofiling it, it held a decent edge. It's true that I didn't pay much for it, but the experience gave me yet another reason to be disillusioned with the S&W company. Considering all of the shameful compromises they've made with the gun control movement, their products will have to be a whole lot better than "adequate" before I'll buy one again.
 
I was never impressed with the SWAT models. I do, howver, have one of the Darrel Ralph designed framelocks. The FL1 and FL2 are consoiderably better than the SWAT series.
 
I reciently purchased a 440 stainless large Swat. Overall, it's a nice kinfe with great egrometrics. I was surprised to learn that it is manufactured in the Republic of China. But then, what isn't these days.
 
Almost all dealers say the 440 stainless blade of S+W SWAT series is made of 440C. Anyone can verify this?
 
I didn't care much for the ones I've messed with. At your price range I'd rather have a Spyderco Endura or Delica.
 
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