How To S1 Pro handle fix

[Knifegrabber]

Hello.
I have bought the S1 Pro.

Having Jääkäripuukko 110mm I have gotten used to its superior rubber handle. I just had problems with moisture and occasional blood on the blade rusting it, I usually do not mind the weather I am camping in and sometimes choosing time and place is not optional. I also decided to "upgrade" to a longer blade.

Knowing the limitations of steel I chose to pick the so called tier 1 knife so it should last in use.

And thanks to this forum, I could study ahead about its weaknesses. Handle and sheath.
I have also wielded A1 in a shop and it had quite rough and smallish handle.

Just to admit, I do not NEED this blade. But it should add adaptibility to my use cases, which is mainly firemaking and sometimes cutting fish and such.
I always carry my Leatherman Charge Ti so I can use it for small tasks.
I just like to buy (not collect) functional and beautiful items whenever I decide I get something.

So far I have gathered these options:
Sheath:
-Fix the locking mechanism by bending it inwards after heating the plastic with heat gun or boiling water
-Buy one of the awesome aftermarket sheaths like vegvisir creations
-Make my own by trying to warm some plastic tube??? It will not end well

Handle:
-Use some kind of paracord, I just bought some lovely paracord and I am thinking that I could maybe take just the outer layer and wrap it around if it otherwise makes it too thick.
How does paracord work for your grip?
I can see myself handling wet and then frozen paracord handle, swearing very much. But I can always remove it.
-Ask some knifesmith to make a new handle for it from stabilized wood, like curly birch.
-Attempt to make my own handle with epoxy and jute like that one forum member here.
-Attempt to plasti-dip the handle? I really do not know how well it holds on, apparently it works very well?

Thank you for any input!

 

[Skidoosh]

Making sheaths out of kydex is not very difficult, give it a try. I'm not sure I understand your concern with the handle but there are some examples of people re-handling the F1.

 

[OrangeBlueOrangeBlue]

Redoing the handle on the Pro models' full over-molded handles is something you can't turn back from (it requires destroying the original Zytel).

If you think plasti-dip is an option, try that first; if you don't like it, just peel it off. If that doesn't work, then I'd move on to making a new handle.

Another option is to sell (or return, if it's an option) the S1 Pro and get the S1x, which uses slab scales that are much more conducive to replacing with something custom.

 

[Knifegrabber]

Redoing the handle on the Pro models' full over-molded handles is something you can't turn back from (it requires destroying the original Zytel).

If you think plasti-dip is an option, try that first; if you don't like it, just peel it off. If that doesn't work, then I'd move on to making a new handle.

Another option is to sell (or return, if it's an option) the S1 Pro and get the S1x, which uses slab scales that are much more conducive to replacing with something custom.

I would have taken S1X but the handle design lets the bare metal contact skin and that is not fun. Even with gloves on it conducts heat away quickly. I do not think it can be avoided unless the handle is reshaped and even then custom handles would be needed to fill the void on the top and bottom.

 

[kevinc]

For the handle try and stretch a piece of bicycle tyre inner tube over the handle. It makes the grip a bit more comfortable without taking away the benefits of a rubber handle.

 

[gazz98]

Welcome to Bladeforums!

K kevinc makes a good point. It won't add a lot of girth (hehe, i said girth) to the handle but the bike tube won't slide around and will be comfortable.

As for rehandling, I have no clue. I've never rehandled a knife.

If the future (there will always be another knife purchase down the road) ..

If you really like a thick handle (I do as well), you could always go the custom route. It might not be as expensive as you think.
https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/for-sale-fixed-blades.754/

Don't be afraid to contact a maker, ask if they can make a fatter handle (add a liner maybe) and update the price.

 

[Black Oak Bladeworks]

I would recommend getting a kydex sheath or making one yourself. If you have time its not to difficult but the tool cost is not worth it for one sheath usually. Unless you just want to do it. The factory leather are pretty good from what I have heard to.

As for the handle I would check with some makers and see what they would charge to do a new one. Good luck!

 

[OrangeBlueOrangeBlue]

I would have taken S1X but the handle design lets the bare metal contact skin and that is not fun. Even with gloves on it conducts heat away quickly. I do not think it can be avoided unless the handle is reshaped and even then custom handles would be needed to fill the void on the top and bottom.

Maybe this will help

 

[Knifegrabber]

K kevinc
The bicycle inner tube sounds like a really good idea! In fact I have some available, been using one to tie stuff down in car.

Black Oak Bladeworks
In fact would like to avoid making my own sheath.
It leaves me with remaining bits I have no use for. Also, with the materials and work included it is not worth doing by myself. And the vegvisir guy makes really good looking sheaths, one that the blade deserves.

https://www.osuvaoutfitters.com/vegvisir-fallkniven-s1-sheath--kydex-tuppi-

gazz98
O OrangeBlueOrangeBlue
I tried to track that thetopical down, could not.
But luckily there are many capable knifesmiths in Finland.

Those handles look stunning good. The best part is that if they are left slightly oversized I can hand sand them myself to 100% fit.

Thanks for all the advice given!

 

[Knifegrabber]

Do you think I should buy the S1X sheath and mod it for the S1 Pro? It would cost me €10.

I tried the original S1 in the new S1x sheath and it does fit, and it does lock, so is 100% useable but **WITH SOME CAVEATS** but it seems possible to customise the sheath quite easily with a Dremel and small bit of kydex to get around these.

From what I can see, I think it would be very easy for Fallkniven to create a similar sheath system for the Original and Pro lines but just adjusting the cutout where the guard locks in.

Could be customised by dremelling out the cutout to fit the Thermorun guard, and gluing in a small bit of Kydex that's 2mm thick so the nose of the guard pinches against the sheath with epoxy.

(I know there's a typo in the image above. Sorry)

This is how the S1x guard locks in, as a reference.

The S1x sheaths are US$12.95 (these are *insane* value) so definitely cheap enough to experiment. Unfortunately I'm in Australia and the postage cost is more than the cost of the sheath so I won't be getting one to experiment until an AU supplier has them available.

 

[Knifegrabber]

I ordered the S1X sheath too. Going to try to modify it for the S1 Pro.

Now the shop is just waiting for FK CC4 stone to get it shipped.

 

[Smiling]

For the price of S1 and costs of getting a new handle you could get a custom made knife.

 

[Knifegrabber]

For the price of S1 and costs of getting a new handle you could get a custom made knife.

Which one would you recommend?
I mean, after the new handle it is kind of "custom".
I think the ease of sanding the wooden handle makes it easy to get it fit for me.

It is possible I do not need to even modify it, if I get used to it. But having handled the A1 at a shop I know it is not a straight fit for me.

I tried seeking proper customs knives.
-Its edge must be scandi (or rather scandivex)
-blade length 110mm to 130mm
-nice handle (!)
-good steel