S110V, S90V on steroids?

K

knife chop

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Feb 11, 2014
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Spyderco is making a manix 2 lightweight with S110V steel and for a $109 price. And from my understanding, it's going to be a production knife and just their typical runs. Has anyone used this steel?
 
I've used Spyderco's S110V in their Forum Native and the Mule. It is a great steel and they harden it well, although I haven't used any S90V so I can't compare it to that. Lasts long though, I have used it to slice up old carpet and it was still able to slice receipt paper so it holds it's edge well. It is a bear to sharpen but once you have set the bevel it is super easy to touch up. Just some swipes of the fine stones will get it back to shaving sharp.

For the price you can't go wrong. $100 and change for S110V is hard to pass up, I am debating if I want to get one, although I don't particularly like the Manix platform. It's nice but wide in the pocket which can be annoying.
 
For that price I may have to sell one of my Mule Team 18's for one, I think I get more use out of a folder.
 
knife chop said:
Spyderco is making a manix 2 lightweight with S110V steel and for a $109 price. And from my understanding, it's going to be a production knife and just their typical runs. Has anyone used this steel?
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S110V is an interesting steel, very complicated alloy that produces some complicated carbides.

When it's heat treated and tempered correctly it's wear resistance is extreme while still being tough enough for normal use and strong enough with a very high compression strength in the higher RC ranges.

While taking a refined edge well and hold it it's strength is in the lower grit ranges around 400-600 grit as it can be a very aggressive cutter that will hold an edge for a very long time.

I have used S110V in a broad range of hardness from 58 RC to 65 RC and it's a very versatile steel.

Reprofiling will take some work due to the high wear resistance, but once the bevel is set it's not bad at all to maintain an extremely sharp edge.
 
I learned to love high wear resistant steels. I found that honing using the fine rods from a sharpmaker and stropman strops works for me. I know it takes a little longer but it works for me. I tried balsa and dia-paste but I'm bad at it and I noticed that balsa's surface was not evenly cut.
 
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