s30v/s90v/154 cm or cpm3v?

N

Nylunds knives

Joined
Jan 6, 2008
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Hello again!

I'm searching for the perfect steel or to be exact, steel combinations for a future utility/hunting knife model. I've read all that I can find on the net but now I just get more and more cunfused.


The blade will be about 90mm long and will be both sold as finished knives and as a blade only so makers can make their own handles.

The blade will have a tickness of about 0.156 and will probably be scandi ground to zero, so it will have a rather thin edge. What do you think of this grind?

Now back to the steels. I will atleast use two different steels and one will be 01 so I'm looking for a more corrosion resistance quality steel as a complement. I've heard a lot of good things about cpm3v but is it enough resistant against corrosion to be a good complement to 01? The blades will probably be blasted (not the 01) so this will effect the corrosion resistance as well.

Wich of the following stainless steels would you suggest for me, s30v s90v or 154 cm? If I go for three different steels I will go for 01, 3v and one of the above.

The blanks will be watercut and should be relativly easy to grind and heat treat, I'm familiar to ht rwl-34 so compare to it.

I've heard that s90v is hard to grind how hard is it compared to rwl-34 and 01? Is it hard grinding it when anneald as well as heat treated?

These blades will be made in batches of about 100 blades so grindability is a thing I have to consider and so are the heat treating.


All toughts and comments are much appreciated!




Regards Jakob
 
I've never had problems with 3V and corrosion (in a kitchen environment) on a satin finished blade. I've heard of several people with corrosion issues on their Fehrman knives that have a bead blast finish.

I believe that with just a little care, satin finished CPM3V will not corrode in most environments. My blade has been left out wet, with water and things like onion juice, more times than I can count. Not a spot of corrosion. Bead blasted blades are another story, and something I have no experience with.
 
CPM 3V would be my first choice. CPM 154 being second, if stainless is a must.
 
You could nickel-plate your O1 for corrosion resistance, and use a microbevel for your scandi with a mirror edge.
 
IMHO your better of defining the mechanical properties you need rather than looking at different steels directly.

Also, it is only zinc galvanised surface treatments that will assist preventing corrosion on near bits of exposed metal. Zinc is the way to go for knives.
 
Phillip Dobson said:
I've never had problems with 3V and corrosion (in a kitchen environment) on a satin finished blade. I've heard of several people with corrosion issues on their Fehrman knives that have a bead blast finish.

I believe that with just a little care, satin finished CPM3V will not corrode in most environments. My blade has been left out wet, with water and things like onion juice, more times than I can count. Not a spot of corrosion. Bead blasted blades are another story, and something I have no experience with.
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Thank you!

Does cpm3v take a good platina? Maybe you could platinate, etch the blasted 3v blade to get a more corrosin resistant surface. The blade has to be blasted or have a machine finish becasue hand sanding and polishing will take too long.

How hard is 3v to grind compared to 154cm?


Regards Jakob
 
cotdt said:
You could nickel-plate your O1 for corrosion resistance, and use a microbevel for your scandi with a mirror edge.
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How is this done?

I was actually think of something like that.

nullack said:
IMHO your better of defining the mechanical properties you need rather than looking at different steels directly.

Also, it is only zinc galvanised surface treatments that will assist preventing corrosion on near bits of exposed metal. Zinc is the way to go for knives.
Click to expand...

Can you Zinc galvanize at home?

Reagrads Jakob
 
Zinc galvanizing is done by dipping metal parts into 850 Degree Fahrenheit molten zinc. I don't think that would be too good for knife blades.
 
i have cpm154 and 3v they hold a nice edge and no corrosion whatsoever, very nice steel imho
 
I would pick CPM S30V with CPM 3V coming in second. Don't worry about rust on either unless you bead blast them. Then just accept it or clean it.
 
Nylunds knives said:
Thank you!

Does cpm3v take a good platina? Maybe you could platinate, etch the blasted 3v blade to get a more corrosin resistant surface. The blade has to be blasted or have a machine finish becasue hand sanding and polishing will take too long.

How hard is 3v to grind compared to 154cm?


Regards Jakob
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Never tried to etch it. It does not patina under casual contact with acidic foods (onion, citrus).

I can't give you a good report on grindability. I used files on the one I did. I can tell you that filing a 10" full-flat cleaver sucked. So did hand-sanding.
 
Thanks for the advises!

I guess that 3v will be "stainless" enough and if i bead blast it will only be the flats so if it rusts it can be cleaned away and wont affect the preformance of the knife.

I will have to try both steels and form my own opinion I guess. I think I will make the first batch of 01 and 154cm and get some bars of 3v, S30V and s90V and compare them against each other for future batches.


I would still like to know how hard 3v is to grind compared to 154CM




Regards Jakob
 
Actually there is more than one way to surface engineer zinc other than hot dipping it. Read the asm book on surface engineering if you blokes are interested.
 
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