S30V vs CPM-154 and knife recommendations?

J

JustSomeGuy

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Mar 12, 2009
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What's the difference between S30V and CPM-154? I really like my S30V Blur for its edge retention, and I think the next steel I would like to try is CPM-154. What are some knives that use CPM-154? I don't really push my knives that hard, so I just like to use them a long time between sharpenings.
 
I find them pretty similar. The one thing I have noticed is that CPM154 (seems) to be less prone to chipping. Not sure if comparing a Strider to a thinner blade knife is exactly fair though.
 
Hmm, if they're pretty similar, what's the next step up in edge retention? Like I said, I don't really abuse my knives, I just want a sharpening to last longer.
 
Heat treat is everything. Some makers could make 440c have incredible edge retention. The problem will be it is so brittle it would break easily. Look up Ankerson's test here in the forum. He has already done the testing for you. For instance you will see s90v and Elmax in two separate categories based in RC.
 
JustSomeGuy said:
Hmm, if they're pretty similar, what's the next step up in edge retention? Like I said, I don't really abuse my knives, I just want a sharpening to last longer.
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The next step up from CPM-S30V would probably be ELMAX. However, there do exist some differences. ELMAX is extremely tough and corrosion resistant. I'd like to see a larger fixed blade made out of it, at least to see how it would hold up against say 3V.
 
I got sick and tired sharpening S30V, when I purchased my last knife I purposely avoided it. I know that we're supposed to maintain all of those blades and not allow them to go dull in the first place, but I doubt that anyone can say they've never had it happen. S30V is hard stuff, and bringing it back requires the patience of Jobe.

Friday I received a Spyderco Breeden Rescue in VG-10. At least I know I can bring it back to shavin' level in a few strokes, and in my past experience, it holds up pretty well.
 
RevDevil said:
ELMAX is extremely tough and corrosion resistant. I'd like to see a larger fixed blade made out of it, at least to see how it would hold up against say 3V.
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Someone is working on that in between other projects. He's confident it will compare favorably. ;)
 
CPM 154 is an interesting steel, much more so than the regular non particle 154CM.

With the alloy content it develops a rather complicated carbide and if it's HT and tempered properly the edge retention is very good.

As with any steel the performance will vary depending on the variables.
 
Jim, Mr. Phil Wilson has me on his waiting list for a 9" Shelter Cove CPM-154 for cleaning redfish. I do well sharpening smaller knives, but would appreciate any advice given with regards to sharpening a 9" blade. Would I be well served by investinf in an Edge-Pro? I am new to these forums and this is my first post. Thanks in advance, Bobby
 
theaccuracyshop said:
Jim, Mr. Phil Wilson has me on his waiting list for a 9" Shelter Cove CPM-154 for cleaning redfish. I do well sharpening smaller knives, but would appreciate any advice given with regards to sharpening a 9" blade. Would I be well served by investinf in an Edge-Pro? I am new to these forums and this is my first post. Thanks in advance, Bobby
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When I sharpen I try work the entire blade but I always have to go back and work the blade in sections, because some areas my be thicker or duller than other areas.

My point is, I do not see a problem with working an edge in sections, but do try avoid working on one section for too long. Overlap neighboring sections while working a certain section.

Also, Phil Wilson usually grinds knives to a very thin edge thickness, so sharpening should be quick and easy since you have muuuuch less steel to remove than your usual production-manufactured knife.
 
I much prefer cpm 154 over s30v. It is easier to sharpen by a wide margin and seems, in my use, to have about the same edge retention.
 
I prefer using s30v.

I don't prefer to sharpen s30v.

I find that if you keep the edge maintained, it holds it for a good while. My pm2 is s30v, and I used the snot out of the thing in the woods for a month and I didn't have to sharpen it. I was cutting sticks, sharpening pencils, yada yada.

All I did was run it over a strop a few times a week. I'm still on that grind on that knife. It needs a stropping, but it's still pocketably sharp.
 
RevDevil said:
The next step up from CPM-S30V would probably be ELMAX. However, there do exist some differences. ELMAX is extremely tough and corrosion resistant. I'd like to see a larger fixed blade made out of it, at least to see how it would hold up against say 3V.
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You ain't the only one...
 
Just got my PM2 with s30v and I hate sharpening it already. Compared to my zt0200 with 154cm, which I think is basically the same thing as cpm154, it's a giant pain in the ***.

The s30v seems to lose its razor sharpness almost immediately too.
 
theaccuracyshop said:
Jim, Mr. Phil Wilson has me on his waiting list for a 9" Shelter Cove CPM-154 for cleaning redfish. I do well sharpening smaller knives, but would appreciate any advice given with regards to sharpening a 9" blade. Would I be well served by investinf in an Edge-Pro? I am new to these forums and this is my first post. Thanks in advance, Bobby
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You can, I used mine to set the edge bevel and then just do touch ups by hand after that on my 7 3/4" Shelter Cove. :)
 
minimalist said:
Just got my PM2 with s30v and I hate sharpening it already. Compared to my zt0200 with 154cm, which I think is basically the same thing as cpm154, it's a giant pain in the ***.

The s30v seems to lose its razor sharpness almost immediately too.
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Are you sure you got rid of the burr completely? what you are describing sounds like you are leaving a burr and that's the "razor" that you are experiencing........ and that would "be lost almost immediately" on any steel. I might be wrong, but right now it sounds that way to me.

If I were trying to diagnose why I lost an edge so fast, this would be my first problem to rule out.
 
co556guy said:
Are you sure you got rid of the burr completely? what you are describing sounds like you are leaving a burr and that's the "razor" that you are experiencing........ and that would "be lost almost immediately" on any steel. I might be wrong, but right now it sounds that way to me.

If I were trying to diagnose why I lost an edge so fast, this would be my first problem to rule out.
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That's very possible. I'm very new to sharpening so that might be it.
 
I just got a pm2 with s30v and I find it holds its razor edge better than 154cm. I also find it a little less fun to sharpen. I'm planning to get a gayle Bradley soon and I'm looking forward to working with the m4 steel so I have something else to compare to. I've heard good things.
 
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