S30v

N

Naymit

Joined
Aug 31, 2005
Messages
275
I am new to the forum. I was wondering whwat kind of experience you've had sharpening the (in)famous s30v. I cant get it right for the life of me. Any advice on the sharpeners or techniques?
 
I use the spyderco sharpmaker, it seems to sharpen s30V is a fairly short amount of time, that is if you havnt completely dulled the edge.
 
What type of knife do you have and what type of sharpening tools do you have available? Also, what do you use to determine if your edge is sharp (for example do you cut paper, or shave arm hair etc)?
 
I have no problem at all keeping my S30V BM Skirmish shaving with my Spyderco Sharpener. I didn't call it Sharpmaker because the one I have was made way before they started calling it the Sharpmaker. Back then it was just called Spyderdo Triangular System.
 
Jeff Clark said:
What type of knife do you have and what type of sharpening tools do you have available? Also, what do you use to determine if your edge is sharp (for example do you cut paper, or shave arm hair etc)?
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thank you very much. i have elite combat RRF and i'd like to get it to where it cuts paper easily.
 
I suggest not letting your S30V knives get too dull; do touchups regularly. It can be difficult to resharpen if you let it get really dull.
 
A Sharpmaker from Spyderco or a Diamond Lansky will make easy work of sharpening a RRF.
 
I use the Idahone and/or sharpmaker, whichever suits my mood at the time. they both work fine on S30V and ZDP.

cliff
 
When I'm hand sharpening, I'm a diamond stone man - 220 to reprofile, 320 to set the edge, then 600 for slicing or 1200 for pushing, before I strop. I haven't found Benchmade or Spyderco's S30V to be any harder to sharpen on diamond than D2, but it does take a while to strop. I ought to try some of that diamond stropping paste from Hand American.
 
Naymit - Welcome to the forums. It is always good to get some new blood in the forum or things get dull.

There is a forum devoted to knife sharpening. Here is the link to it and a link to Joe Talmadge's (the wizard) comments.

One simple trick I learned that really helped was to take a black magic marker Sharpie pen and mark the edge I was trying to sharpen. Then after making a couple of passes on the sharpener look at the edge and you can see exactly where you are hitting on the edge. A small 10x lope magnifier (like the jeweler uses) can be purchased for about $10 and this really illustrates what is happening to the edge you are trying to sharpen.

I have never had any issue with S30V or any other. The ceramic rods on the Sharpmaker are harder (9 on moh's scale just like saphires) than any steel made so will cut it. Course grits of course cut quicker.

I got a new ZDP189 Spyderco that supposedly has a very high RC value but haven't tried to sharpen it. The higher the RC (Rockwell scale C) value the greater the edge holding abililty is supposed to be.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=794

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=368828
 
Thank you all. It appears that the members of bladeforums have a wealth of knowledge and information and do not begrudge sharing it. Since that is the case (and at the risk of being marked a blasphemer), can I ask your opinion on CRKT’s Slide Sharp (http://www.crkt.com/slideshrp.html). Any experience with it? To my untrained I it seems a very easy way to sharpen knives but I am worried about ruining a good blade that was also a gift.
 
Naymit said:
thank you very much. i have elite combat RRF and i'd like to get it to where it cuts paper easily.
Click to expand...

This sounds like the edge is not getting hit at all by the abrasive, I don't think the steel type is the issue, but the angle of the edge is larger than what you are sharpening. Either increase your honing angle or radically recut the edge. Use the marker method Joe has described in the FAQ to check progress on either.

-Cliff
 
@Naymit,

you haven´t told us what kind of sharpening kits you use.

It would be easier to tell you, you have the false stuff, if we know, what kind of stuff you have.

OK...:)

If you keep your eyes on things like this sharpening assistance you should not expect any good abrasion which means it will be a hell to get anything sharp if it is dull. To get a sharp knife sharp is no surprise. But yours is dull.

If you are not used to sharpen freehand, learn it. buy one or two cheap knives, read the FAQ, have no fear and no respect (you can do it!) and get some quality stones with a good grit.

Start with something coarse like a 220 grit SiC (Siliciumcarbide) Stone and go on finer in two or more steps till 1000. After that some stropping will get good sharpness or you can polish with the ceramic rods from spyderco. Choose the freehand ones.

But, as Cliff has said: Make yourself sure how well your sharpening is. Improve it if necessary. That is basic beside the right equipment.

With that the differences between the steel grades get very small, but your abbility to create the edge you prefer.
 
Naymit said:
Thank you all. It appears that the members of bladeforums have a wealth of knowledge and information and do not begrudge sharing it. Since that is the case (and at the risk of being marked a blasphemer), can I ask your opinion on CRKT’s Slide Sharp (http://www.crkt.com/slideshrp.html). Any experience with it? To my untrained I it seems a very easy way to sharpen knives but I am worried about ruining a good blade that was also a gift.
Click to expand...

I should work okay on most blades with a thin edge that fits into the slot. The problem will be with knives having thick blades.

It is brand new and not many (including me) have tried it. Since I already have a Spyderco Sharpmaker I probably will not buy a Slide Sharp.
 
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