Safety concerns for new knifemakers

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Jul 9, 1999
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There is a real fascination about knifemaking that draws folks to it. I suppose it's the idea of one being able to construct the most important of the basic tools/weapons that draws people in. People always perk up when I tell them the knife on my hip they're asking about is one I made all by my little lonesome. :D They nearly always ask about how it's done and as I explain the process you can see they are trying to commit it to memory. It's a downright handy skill to have and even non-knife people are very interested in the 'how-to' aspect of it.
So, it comes as no surprise that more people are giving this trade a try on the hobby level.
One issue I see coming up more often now that we have lots of folks giving knifemaking a try is the safety aspect of our endeavour. Things that established knifemakers have learned thru experience or from others are relatively unknown to the new knifemaker. We all know that in knifemaking the adage 'Ignorance is bliss' is oh so wrong. Ignorance is painful and sometimes crippling in this trade. And at times it can be fatal.
So, I'd like to address some of the safety concerns the new maker needs to be aware of and should not have to learn the hard way. I'd like to invite the established makers to please weigh in with their own precautions so this can be a complete safety manual of sorts for the new makers.

First is the Buffer. This innocent looking machine has caused more pain to knifemakers than all the other equipment we use combined. At any time it can grab the piece your working on, rip it out of your gorilla grip and send it bouncing off walls, the floor or into your body. This machine demands the highest respect and rightly so. Be careful when buffing around a knife's guard, ricasso or any sharply angled or tight area of the piece your working on. Also NEVER point the blade's edge or tip into the spinning buffer. :eek: Be especially careful as you approach the blade's tip because the closer you get to the tip the more likely the buffer is gonna get hold of the blade and rip it out of your grasp.

Respirators. This is a 'must have' item. Anytime you grind or sand dust gets put into the air around you. ALL dust is bad news to your lungs. Most of the things we grind or sand produce dust that is toxic in one way or another. Most of the exotic woods we use and love contain chemical compounds that can put a serious hurt on you. These compounds are produced by the tree as a defense mechanism against things that would eat the tree. Breathing the dust introduces those chemical compounds into your body's interior where it can do bad things to you. Some wood dust can even irritate your skin and give you a good case of hives.

Eye protection. Another 'must have' item. Your sight is the most precious of your senses. Grinding steel is a violent activity and particles of hot steel get thrown every which way. Mom's admonition of "your gonna put an eye out!" is a stark reality in the knife shop. Any time your taking material off of an item to shape it, pieces of the material your abrading get kicked off at a good rate of speed. As fate would have it, often times it seems to go straight toward one's eyes. Eyes only come one pair per person. Protect yours jealously lest they get put out. Get into the habit of using safety glasses and/or a full face shield and keep that habit.

Chemicals. Men seem to have the disconcerting habit of jumping right into things without reading the instructions of 'how to' first. We work with dangerous chemicals all to often in the knife shop. It is very important to thoroughly read and understand the labels of chemicals we use there. If you read the labels it might surprise you at just how much trouble a chemical can cause you if your not careful with it. Many chemicals are carcinogens. Meaning they have been shown to be the cause of cancers. Also, many can cause other problems such as burns, irritations and lung damage. If you've ever had a chemical burn, I guarantee you'll treat the offending chemical a lot differently in the future if you use it at all. That kind of damage is very painful, slow to heal and extremely prone to serious infections. And it can change your life in an adverse and permanent way.
ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS READ AND THOROUGHLY UNDERSTAND WHAT A GIVEN CHEMICAL DOES, WHAT IT CAN DO TO YOU AND HOW TO USE IT SAFELY. I cannot possibly stress this enough. It's that important.

Grinders. No knife shop should be without at least one of these machines. They make the knifemaker's life a good and productive one. But, they are a dangerous piece of machinary too. They warrant the upmost respect right behind the buffer. Always spend the money and buy quality belts for your grinder. You get what you pay for in the area of grinding/sanding belts. Like many of the other makers here, I've jumped on what I thought was a good deal on some cheap belts. They were cheap because they were defective and not suited for knifemaking. The belts would break in a most violent manner sounding like someone just shot a .38 next to your head. The broken belt can and does slap you half a dozen times before you can react. The abrasive on the belt is highly effective at removing the flesh from you causing a somewhat nasty and very painful abrasion wound.
The tool rest is very helpful at times but be careful of that gap between the rest and the belt. Your work can get sucked into that gap and ruin what you were working on. Your fingers can get pinched there and you'll get first hand knowledge on what it's like to be a piece of grinding fodder. What gets ground off is not likely to grow back so be extremely careful when using the tool rest on your grinder.

Band saws and other power saws. Never, ever get careless and let your fingers get close to these saws. Use a push stick when things start getting close to that saw blade. You will be utterly amazed at how fast you can lose one or more fingers in this equipment. Never try to free something that is binding in the saw while the equipment is running. If a problem develops while using the saw, the very first thing is to do is get the power turned off to the equipment so you can address the problem without endangering your digits. :D

Drill Press: Another innocent looking beast that bites. Anytime you are drilling or doing some light milling it's always a great idea to make sure you've got that item anchored securely with clamps, or a drill vise or something along that line. It's imperative that the item you are drilling or milling be secured because it's really easy for that rapidly spinning bit to seize your project and turn it into a whirling helicopter blade. This is NO FUN! You've just turned your knife into a lawn mower blade spinning at whatever RPM your working with. GET THE POWER TURNED OFF RIGHT AWAY. Preferably at the breaker box cuz you'll want to get away from the immediate area fast. Sooner or later, usually sooner, (ask me how I know this :footinmou ) that drill bit is gonna break or the blade is going to come loose and there's no predicting which direction it's going to fly in.

The very act of drilling metal sends metal peelings and pieces flying off the work area so if you are gonna drill something, make sure you wear eye protection. The drill bit catches and often spins these off and they are nearly always extremely sharp and gnarly.

Also, sometimes a drill bit will fail somewhat catastrophically if you put too much pressure on that feed arm while drilling hard material. This sends very hot shards of shattered drill bit flying every which way at a high enough velocity to cause shrapnel wounds. Wear safety glasses or a full face shield and this will help keep those shards from imbedding in your face or those precious eyes. Believe me, it sucks digging shards of drill bit outta your mug with a pair of tweezers and a razor blade. :grumpy:

Ventilation Keeping the air moving thru your shop helps to take out airborne particles of waste material and it's always a good idea to bring fresh air into your shop anyway. A closed up shop traps those nasty little particles and everytime you go into your shop YOUR lungs are filtering them out of the atmosphere in your shop. Not a good scenario considering the stuff we use.

Dust collection system After you decide this is something you want to do on a more permanent basis, this is another of those 'must have' items. Aside from taking the airborne pollution out of your shop it cuts down on another subject we haven't yet discussed, and that is fire. A grinder that sees duty grinding steel and wood tends to collect the dust thrown off of it in every little nook and cranny. This will build up until one day you'll be happily grinding steel and you begin to smell smoke. Looking up, you'll notice a blue haze in the shop and only then will you realize that the grinder is on fire. :eek: :eek: Usually it's just a slow smolder but it can easily flare up into full fledged flames. A piece of hot steel has found it's way to a pile of built up dust and has ignited it. I can't begin to tell you how much it sucks to have to put this out while your eyes are burning from the toxic smoke in the air. And it gets really interesting if it happens to start on the floor. I've danced the firefighter's jig a number of times before deciding I need to deal with this matter by keeping things a bit tidier around the grinder. :footinmou


I hope this helps and I also hope the established makers chime in because I'm sure there is plenty of info I haven't included here.


All the best,
Mike U.
 
Mike,
That's about the best written and understandable thing I've read in years. If it's ok, I'll make it a sticky.

I'm not afraid of man or beast, but a 1 hp 1750 rpm buffer scares the hell out of me. In 1973 one grabbed a big fixed blade with saw teeth on it and slung it into my right hand. Almost cut my thumb off. In the early 80s one grabbed a 4" drop point hunter and threw it at me, handle first. Hit me in the chin and almost knocked me out. I started bead blasting and hand satin finishing blades about that time :)

If you are grinding or sanding on anything and don't wear a good respirator, you are STUPID. Period.

I was in Texas in school and helping a knifemaker friend grind some blades. He had a big home made grinder that wanted to throw grit at you all the time.
I forgot my safety glasses once and spent 5 hours in an Emergency Room with the doctor using a #2 needle picking slivers out of my eyes. He told me some were very rusty and must have been there awhile.
If you don't wear safety glasses when you are grinding, drilling, milling, sawing, or any other thing that makes for small flying pieces, you are STUPID. Period.

Good common sense. That's all it takes.
 
Thanks Kit! I'll add things as they come to mind and I'm really hoping others will cover areas I'm missing.


All the best,
Mike U.
 
Heavy metal poisoning is a concern. Steel isn't usually too bad but the non-ferrous metals in the shop can be a problem.

Brass, copper, lead, bronze, aluminum, zinc, cadmium, pewter, etc. can all be very seriously dangerous, have good ventilation, and wear a respirator whenever working with these metals, especially hot.

Heavy metal poisoning is bad news, it kept me out of the shop for over a year.

Tony
 
I agree with Misque's first point: The buffer IS the most dangerous tool in the shop. I learned early on that whatever I'm buffing, I hold "below the equator", that is, on the bottom half of the wheel: that way, if it DOES take it from you, the item will at least head AWAY from you......until it bounces off somehting else and heads back.... :eek:
 
No kidding with those chemicals, and eye protection. I work with liquid fuels as my every day job. One day I forgot my eye protection when we were pumping out a 4000 gal tank full of JP-8 jet fuel. One of the hoses came apart, and fuel from the pump splashed in my eyes. I spent a few hours in the hospital with a "contact lens" attached to a small tube on my eyes dripping a salt water solution. That was extremly painful. I'm glad I learned my lesson then and not in the forge, where it even more dangerous.
 
Dont leave out the dangers of fire when a maker begins to forge blades. They usually begin by making their own forge and burners. This is new to almost everybody and the misuse of propane is very dangerous. Be sure to get some real advice before making a forge or better yet just buy a ready built one from a reputable source. Dangers continue not just for newbies when we get into various heat treating methods. Heating with molten salt could be disasterous. The purchase of a good digital heat treating oven is a wise investment or send the blades out to a heat treating profesional.
 
Shop Saftey, A must do, if you want to live long and enjoy that knife making career. Keep several extinguishers [filled] at quick access in the shop. If you aspire to be a forger/damascus maker, boiling flux, flaming scale, yellow hot bars, move any thing that can catch FIRE. It does and it will, burn in a hurry.
Add a couple of cans of solvent to a small fire and you have disaster. The voice of experenice. Fred
 
A pair of muffs will keep those floppy things on the side of your head alive.
Tinnitus will torture you and you really can't cure it. :(
 
Sure can understand wearing (and I do) a respirator when grinding steel or cutting/shaping micarta, bone, exotic woods. But what about the "little" jobs - like epoxying handles, and wiping excess with acetone. Where do epoxy and acetone fit on the risk scale?
And how about buffing compound - I understand that compounds 'gas off' and that's not good either.

Mike
 
At some point in my life I would like to attempt making knives. This has been a helpful topic and I'm glad you guys are here to give future knife makers safety advice so we can start off on the right foot.

I was wondering if someone could post more advice on respirators here. I know there are different respirators on the marker and different types of chemical filter inserts. I heard you need the right ones to filter out the chemicals released from micarta when sanding it. I just ordered a respirator from LeeValley for general use when dealing with dusty situations. Does anyone know if their filters will protect against the chemicals micarta releases?
 
I purchase the resperators I use from my local auto body paint supply store.
3M makes a throwaway dual cannister mask that last me around three months before it starts to get a little funky. These are meant to be used inside a paint booth to spray lacquer so will work fine in the knife shop. The cost locally is 18 dollars or so. A six dollar investment in my lungs ever month seems reasonable.
 
Mike Mossington said:
Sure can understand wearing (and I do) a respirator when grinding steel or cutting/shaping micarta, bone, exotic woods. But what about the "little" jobs - like epoxying handles, and wiping excess with acetone. Where do epoxy and acetone fit on the risk scale?
And how about buffing compound - I understand that compounds 'gas off' and that's not good either.

Mike
I have set up a station in my shop where I have combined cross ventillation with a hooded exhaust fan. When using contact cement, acetone or other solvents I place these items under the hood. The incoming air is at my back, flows over the project and then outside. Fred
 
I have set up a station in my shop where I have combined cross ventillation with a hooded exhaust fan. When using contact cement, acetone or other solvents I place these items under the hood. The incoming air is at my back, flows over the project and then outside. Fred


Fred has the right idea when working with acetones, epoxies and so on. At the very least, you should have an exhaust fan running and a fan set up to carry those fumes away from your face. A hooded exhaust fan sounds like an excellent idea. :cool: Thanks Fred!
 
misque said:
Fred has the right idea when working with acetones, epoxies and so on. At the very least, you should have an exhaust fan running and a fan set up to carry those fumes away from your face. A hooded exhaust fan sounds like an excellent idea. :cool: Thanks Fred!
Thank you Mike for starting this thread. We can all use a refresher course in shop safety. Accidents don't just happen, it's human neglect or error that is the culprit. Be aware of potential accidents and fix it before it happens. It makes no difference if you have been a knife maker for ten days or ten years, the possibility of an accident, if you don't stay allert, is always there waiting to happen.Fred
 
I just found out that a good friend, and one of the few mentors I've ever really had has died of complications from heavy metal pisoning.

Jim (paw-paw) Wilson was burning of the zinc galvanization on pipe to build a stock rack for his new shop when he came down with "welding fume fever" which is a fast onset type of heavy metal poisoning caused by inhalation of large quantities of poisonous fumes from things such as zinc.

He is Now dead, May he rest in peace, and may his family be comforted.

Please be careful with these things that don't seem that hazardous.

Tony
 
What about soldering guys? Is there a whole lot of exposure in soldering a brass, copper, or nickel silver guard onto a steel blade? Do all of you wear respirators if and when you do this? Since is gets hot, I would think you would. Growing up, and in Boy Scouts in the 60's, we did lots of soldering on amature "ham" projects, no protection.
 
rhrocker said:
What about soldering guys? Is there a whole lot of exposure in soldering a brass, copper, or nickel silver guard onto a steel blade? Do all of you wear respirators if and when you do this? Since is gets hot, I would think you would. Growing up, and in Boy Scouts in the 60's, we did lots of soldering on amature "ham" projects, no protection.
I take the attitude, that fumes go out the exhaust. What ever it may be. Combining different chemical compounds, wheather in a container, or in the air , can cause some very unpleasent things to happen in your lungs. Soldering
falls into this catagory.
 
Dangerous situtations arise quickly. If you have been a maker, forger in my case, for enough years to be comfortable working in your shop its the new things you introduce into the shop that can be sources of peril.
I finally bought the A.O. gas outfit I've been looking to aquire for a year or so.
Since I know little to nothing about A.O. welding, I had the local sales rep explain his product to me, so I could handle it safely. Which he did. I never relized the A. part of the mixture was made as a byproduct of acetone reacting chemicaly. So heading home with my new gas outfit, I felt I knew how to handle it in a safe manner. My first step was to remove the saftey caps that screw on top of the tanks, protecting the valves. The ox. cap was finger tight, it unscrewed easely. The A. tank cap would not come off by hand, even though I was astradle the tank and working with both hands. So, reaching for a small lever to assist me I placed it in the slot in the side of the cap and gave it a little downward pressure. I heard the hissing sound instantly. I had hooked the edge of the valve, and acetone was coming out of the tank in a rush. I grabbed my resperator, hit the exhaust fan switch and worked as fast as I could to get the valve closed. Its the little dumb things you do that seem to cause the biggest problems. I will never do that again. Work safe out there. Fred:o
 
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