SAK tip sharpening..........

H

Hateman

Joined
Oct 28, 2000
Messages
1,895
Hello All,
I've a few SAK's that I've tried to sharpen. For the most part, all of them sharpen easily on the Spyderco Sharpmaker Fine or Ultrafine rods. Howver, there is a dullness on the last 1/4 or 3/4 inch of the balde near the tip. Repeated sharpening does, ever so slowly, bring back an edge, but still dulled compared to the rest of the blade. Any ideas as to how to alleviate this?

When I mention a SAK blade, I talk of the standard91 mm (such as the Hiker, Spartan, etc.) and specifically the 111 mm Advernturer.

Any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
I've noticed the same thing with my Sharpmaker. The tip and the area right near the handle are always trouble areas that don't get sharp as fast as the rest of the blade. For the tip, I sharpen it separately--either very slowly and carefully on the Sharpmaker or freehand on a DMT bench stone. I go slow, so I don't accidentally blunt the point on the tip. You can also use the Sharpmaker as a bench stone so you can freehand sharpen the tip.
 
Agreed. the sharpmaker is great but the mechanics of using it cause us to lighten our swipes as we near the tip. In essence, we begin to lift the blade as we come near the end. Conversely, if we don't slow down and stop, we risk dulling the blade. it's possible you are experiencing both.

I started sharpening all my knives on a norton 1000/8000 waterstone. Since then I have had no problems sharpening the tips of my knives. I still use my sharpmaker for quick touch ups but for heavy sharpening, I revert to the stones.

Take care,
Brett
 
you guys need to check into the cardboard wheels that stevebot sells. he also has a few books on sharpening. i have 3 video's on youtube that show how quick it is to work up a burr with them. since removing the burr and polishing the edge takes about the same ammount of time with the same process i dont show that part. here is the link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plMbnQMQJMg
 
I'm not entirely sure it's the Sharpmaker or the technique adjustment it "causes". Maybe so...but I'm not so sure.

The bevel on most knives changes nearer the tip. In other words, the edge bevel is not ground at the eact same angle from hilt to tip. I think you might try increasing your angle "slightly" as you enter the area from belly to tip.
 
That's true. When using the SM, I always tilt my wrist toward the inside and kind of rotate it.

Take care,
Brett
 
I don't use a sharpmaker but I have the same problem freehand on SAKs. Usually the tip is the most shavingly sharpest point of my butchering and kitchen knives, and even on my clip-point wenger. However I've always had trouble with the tips on spear-point blades. So I just ingore the problem, I just grind straight away and neglect the tip. I basically leave the factory bevel on the first 2mm and give it a seperate touch up if it needs work. It creates a sheepsfoot effect on the blade, but I like that style and its worth it to have the extra tools of the SAK anyways.
 
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