Sal, sheath changes on SPOT?

ThinkOfTheChildren

ThinkOfTheChildren

Joined
Jul 7, 2000
Messages
1,556
Sal,
I was planning on sending in my SPOT ASAP because the sheath has proven to be insecure. This is what I wrote in another thread:

The sheath was loose when it first arrived but now it's even worse. Yesterday I was able to get it to pop out of its sheath from bouncing up and down in its chain. Not just once mind you, these results are repeatable.

I see a design flaw in the sheath:
If the knife is pulled straight down, there is an ok level of retention. If there is any lateral pressure towards the edge, however, it takes almost no force to unsheath the knife. The way the sheath is molded, this allows the blade to simply leverage itself out and fall.

It's so bad that you can hold the sheath in your hand and flick your wrist slightly and the knife goes flying out. I've never had a kydex sheath do this before, especially not on a neck knife.

A graphic explanation: http://cpm440v.tripod.com/spot/spotdrop.htm
Click to expand...

But now I see in another thread that you say that the sheath is being reworked. Do you have any idea of how long this change will take?

The reason that I ask is because I would like to get a new sheath: I don't want to send this in to just get it replaced with the same kind of sheath.

Please advise me on the best plan of action.
Should I send it in now with a letter asking for a new sheath?
Should I wait until the changes are implemented before sending it in?
What do you think?
 
Hi Think. On your particular sheath, I can't say without seeing the problem. I've not had a problem with mine, but we made some changes in the weight testing system and we decided to make some changes in the sheath, The Sheathery dept will be on Ronin sheaths for the next few weeks. so it will take at least that long.

sal
 
I am supposed to have a SPOT sometime this week, I'm going to try to heat the kydex up if it has a problem and I'm going to try to use the butt end of a metallic Dental Tool to push the Kydex lightly into the holes in the blade...maybe pre-mark the kydex with a magic marker after measuring both...where the holes are. All you should need is a little projection of Kydex, a dimple, into the hole(s) of the blade.

I think that would solve it, I've never worked with kydex before, I don't know how hot you have to get it, to get it just right. (Have to get some burn cream on hand and do the hands on test. :D )
 
Hey Guys...

TOTC...

From your picture I see Exactly what you mean, and *I think* I know how the problem can be solved...

I don't think the sheath needs an entire rework.. Basically the sheath is a good design, as good as it can get for this type of knife....(Not Exactly how I would do it,,but thats OK..:) )Not that its bad,, just *can* be difficult to sheath..

In your picture,, if the bottom left eyelet is moved down just slightly,,just past the peak on the spine, you will solve this problem...

Whats happening here with the sheath that is pictured is that, you have basically No retention past the last eyelet on the left..
This makes for a Very insecure and crappy fitting sheath....

Once this eye is moved down, you create a different kind of a retention, where the knife almost clicks in, past that eyelet...
It is a delicate balance for a proper fit, again,,especially with this type of knife...

What Don is saying with creating detents where the holes of the blade fits into to the indents in the kydex will work well if its done right, and they are pushed in far enough...
This is one of the ways I get my Busse combats to fit nicely into the sheaths... Again a fine balance....

Don.. Have to work on the scar tissue on your fingers.. I don't feel pain in my fingers anymore..:)

The sheath your have now can be fixed by popping in another eyelet or getting Sal to make you one with the eyelet slightly passed the peak on the Spot...

Without actually prototyping the sheath, or handling it, I can only go by experience and give an educated guess....

Hope that helps you guys...

ttyle

Eric...
 
Hi Think. Sheaths are new for us, as are fixed blades, so we're still learning. We've established four tests for our sheaths.

1. a Static weight test to determine what poundage is needed to pull the knife from the sheath as compared to what poundage is needed to break the chain.

2. A static weight test to determine the amount of poundage necessary to remove the knife from the sheath using your hand/fingers (to be user friendly both in "pull" unsheathing and thumb "push-off"). A difficult balance. The thumb push off is necessary to be able to unsheath the piece without large movement or large noise.

3. A dynamic test to determine how much snap is needed to unsheath the knife (drop test from predetermined footage).

4. 1000 sheath and unsheath cycles (weight test between numbered cycles) to see long term affect of the knife on the sheath.

The design will be refined until it will meet the pretermined numerical requirements.

My apologies for your inconvenience. I appreicate your input. Be gentle, it's my first time.

Hi Normark, thanx for the tips. Are you now making Kydex sheaths?

Hey Don. The edge of the holes are sharp. When used for "grip" as they are, they were too tight or they cut the kydex upon withdrawl.

sal
 
Hey Sal....

""Hi Normark, thanx for the tips. Are you now making Kydex sheaths?""

Yaaaa,, I've made one or two before...:)

Have a look at my site Sal..:)

http://www.mnsi.net/~nbtnoel

Sal,, Try out the suggestion about moving down the bottom left eyelet..
I think this will help you fit the knife a little easier, and give it something to lock into...

I agree with your comments about the sharp edges on the holes...

If they are sharp,, the knife is going to hang up going both in and out..
If you countersink the hole slightly,,it'll fit Sweet....

As far as Spyderco being new to sheathing,,,,,

You might want to hire Sastre to train your staff...:)

For a little Extra and several cases of beer, a couple big bottles of Motts Clamato and a 1/2 gallon of decent Vodka,, I could come along as well,, but I can't promise Sastre will get anything accomplished.. :)

ttyle

Eric....
 
Not to worry about me getting things done, Eric. You can have all the alcohol - I quit in '85!
 
Hey Mike..

Thats Ok..

I don't drink either..

It just sounded good..:)

Hope you are well...

Hey,, Can you take me kayaking this weekend ???

LMAO

Colder than a stepmother's kiss here right now....
Suppose it is there as well...

Take care buddy..

Eric
 
Hey Mike..

BTW....

About my suggestions on the Spot sheath...

That sound about right to you ??

Makes sense doesn't it ??
Have to get one of those little beautis and try it out for myself..:)

ttyle

Eric....
 
Thanks for all the input here. I decided to send the SPOT in after all so I'll post an update when I get something back.

In terms of other sheaths I've seen so far from Spyderco:
The Perrin is pretty great but could use larger eyelets and more retention.
The Moran DP is one of the best kydex sheaths I've ever had. Although if I remember correctly, the Moran DP sheaths were made by someone else (Blade-Tech?). Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

The Spot sheath would be nice if it weren't for the retention problem. I really appreciate the chain attachment method Snody style.

If I could put in my own suggest for the sheath: add more of a 'lip' that grabs onto the finger hole. I understand the desire to leave the hole as open as possible for a clean draw, but more of a lip would have greatly helped on my particular model. Mine barely has any lip at all.

Like I said though, I'll comment further when I get a new specimen to play with.

I appreciate your comments and efforts, Sal, and I still certainly plan on buying future Spyderco fixed blades. I'm especially interested in the Ronin: good to hear it will be out soon.
 
Hey Sal....

Sure,, no problem..I'd be Glad to help you out on this one...

ttyle

Eric...
 
Anytime, Sal, always glad to help. Tension on the Proto should have been just about right, even though it lacked the cord channel.
 
Hey Mike...

Dude,, I'm sorry,, I didn't know you did the proto work...

Don't want to step on your toes Bud...


ttyle

Eric
 
Sal,

I don't see that as a problem. Just a tad more material on that side of the sheath to push against.
 
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