Sal, what are your thoughts on chisel grind knives?

The only chisel ground knife I have is the main blade on my Swiss tool Spirit. I dislike it because it makes it awkward to use with either hand.
 
I'm not Sal, but I like chisel ground blades.

If any of you have a full-spyderedge blade, you'll notice that the secondary bevel is chisel-ground due to the serrations. Even some older Spydies with PS blades have a chisel-ground secondary bevel.

They cut just as well, you only have to get used to them.

Peace.
 
I was under the impression that most chisel ground knives were more for culinary use. They make for more exacting cuts for sushi, sashimi, mini strips of carrots, cukes, etc.
 
I actually found a one-sided blade to be somewhat useful for some fine cutting of paper against a cutting board. You can look straight down at the blade when you cut and still see exactly where the cut is being made, but of course it was on the "wrong" side so in practice is was not ideal.

For other things results are mixed. It's harder to cut a piece of cardboard in half in a straight line.

Good for carrots, bad for apples.

I definitely wouldn't want to have to cut a big fat piece of rope with a blade that wants to twist. But for cutting open a plastic bag and other daily tasks it doesn't matter much.

It definitely seems like a bad idea for chopping wood in an axe-like motion, because it will want to turn as it goes in. But if it were sharpened on the right side, it might actually make it easier to whittle a stick into a sharp point by using the knife like a wood planer.

However, most of the benefits, in my opinion, would be equally provided by a blade with a full flat grind and the smallest edge bevel possible. That's the best type of blade for most uses that don't involve force that would break a blade, and since I don't often do those things I prefer a regular sharpening job on a thin flat ground edge.
 
Doesn't the Spyderco Ronin have a chisel-ground blade? (I may be mistaken.)

I dislike them very much. I feel that to adequately sharpen a knife, you should be grinding both sides. Even with chisel grind, you HAVE to sharpen the back side, because if you don't you'll simply have a burr there from grinding on the front side. And when you sharpen the back, you have to do it very close to flat or you undo the idea of it being chisel-ground anyway. There's also the potential to mar the finish of the blade back that way.


I also don't like the way a chisel-ground blade pushes to one side as it cuts through material. VERY not good, in my opinion.

I hope Sal doesn't like them enough to make more models with them, when the energy could be put into other directions and projects. Needless waste of time to make chisel grinds. (Sorry to those of you who like and want them.)


-Jeffrey
 
ya dont have to grind both sides, go to the EKI website to learn how if ya wanna.

ya can always tape the back of the blade to avoid scuffs.

every SE spyderco made is a CG.
 
How can grinding only on one side not put a burr on the other side? I've sharpened chisel-ground blades before (my Neck Peck) and I've read instructions that say you should take the burr off the back. What, if you don't mind telling me, does the EKI website say about it?


-Jeffrey
 
peacefuljeffrey said:
Doesn't the Spyderco Ronin have a chisel-ground blade? (I may be mistaken.)
No, it's ground on both sides.
 
Hi AmadeusM,

Chisel grind or "Kataba" grind (Japanese) has been around for many hundreds of years.

They have their place. Advantages in some areas, disadvantages in others.

For general use, I prefer double grinds, but we use single bevel for our serrations. The trick to single bevel grinds is; keep it thin.

sal
 
peacefuljeffrey said:
How can grinding only on one side not put a burr on the other side? I've sharpened chisel-ground blades before (my Neck Peck) and I've read instructions that say you should take the burr off the back. What, if you don't mind telling me, does the EKI website say about it?


-Jeffrey


ya hone it on the front side (the other side of the flat side) until ya get a burr then "strop" the flat side on a cardboard pad/steel (my preffered way)/leather strop/ stone to remove the burr.

obviously the cardboard wont scuff anything (maybe if its coated?) but ya can always put masking tape on the flat side to prevent scuffs.

now a zero bevel grind ya do have to hone both sides kinda like ya mention, but not very many CG's are ZBG, mostly custom emersons, though a few others are around. when i have to sharpen my specwar CQC8 emerson i probably will send it in as there really is no way to do it with out scuffs, which i would prefer not to have on my $800 knife lol.
 
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