Salt Bluing Help

Jesse WW

Jesse WW

Joined
Jul 8, 2017
Messages
71
Hello all!

This is my first time bluing and there are a couple of general things i would like to ask both about the salts and my method of bluing before i start anything - just to be certain i don't do anything potentially disastrous.

First of all, the particular bluing finish i am looking to achieve is a rich royal blue color, and i was wondering if i can achieve this with sodium nitrAte purely on its own? I have some which is convenient. This particular form of bluing from what i have read is referred to as Nitre Bluing.

Now, from what i can understand; salt mixtures with caustic salts will create an oxide layer and blacken the steel, where as non caustic salts will not create an oxide layer, but will however allow the steel to change color purely because of the heat. The later being what i want. Am i right to assume this?

The setup will be pretty average because i am strapped for cash at this moment, but i cant see why it wont work. Am i simply able to just use a small stainless steel bucket/pot (can?) in combination with my forge burner on a low setting? Can i just add the salts into the container and fire up the burner or do i need to add water before hand? I do have a laser thermometer, which I'm sure will also prove quite helpful.

Lastly, what safety precautions should i take? I understand the need for eye protection, molten salt splattering here and there, to watch our for fumes etc etc, but is there anything else i should really be aware of that will help me avoid any potential disastrous outcomes?

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Jesse WW said:
Hello all!

This is my first time bluing and there are a couple of general things i would like to ask both about the salts and my method of bluing before i start anything - just to be certain i don't do anything potentially disastrous.

First of all, the particular bluing finish i am looking to achieve is a rich royal blue color, and i was wondering if i can achieve this with sodium nitrAte purely on its own? I have some which is convenient. This particular form of bluing from what i have read is referred to as Nitre Bluing.

Now, from what i can understand; salt mixtures with caustic salts will create an oxide layer and blacken the steel, where as non caustic salts will not create an oxide layer, but will however allow the steel to change color purely because of the heat. The later being what i want. Am i right to assume this?

The setup will be pretty average because i am strapped for cash at this moment, but i cant see why it wont work. Am i simply able to just use a small stainless steel bucket/pot (can?) in combination with my forge burner on a low setting? Can i just add the salts into the container and fire up the burner or do i need to add water before hand? I do have a laser thermometer, which I'm sure will also prove quite helpful.

Lastly, what safety precautions should i take? I understand the need for eye protection, molten salt splattering here and there, to watch our for fumes etc etc, but is there anything else i should really be aware of that will help me avoid any potential disastrous outcomes?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
You need to get the blueing instructions from Brownells.com. Mitre blueing can give the blue color u want, but the temps are high, like over 500 F. Those salts are used w/o water. Gunsmith type bluing is done with several chemicals mixed w/water at 292F. You need close temp control.
Chip Kunkle
 
You don't need salts to do heat bluing. It is not durable and will wear quickly on exposed areas.
 
Here is a video by "Clickspring" where he shows a neat method of heat bluing that looks to produce a nice, rich, and even royal blue color, and it looks like it's a fairly consistently way of achieving it.



~Paul
My YT Channel
Lsubslimed
... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
You can do the same thing very simply by using a propane torch. It takes practice.
 
Thanks for the replies. I do understand it is not a resistant finish - its however for a display piece rather than a user, so it wont be seeing much wear n tear.
My intention for using nitre salts as opposed to a torch is because i though it would be a lot easier to control the temperature and get a more consistent finish throughout the entire piece. I like what coldsteelburns suggested, but i feel this technique might be a little difficult to achieve a consistent finish on larger more complicated shapes.

What mknife suggested is pretty much exactly what i had in mind. I'm not able to get my hands on potassium nitrate however due to laws in Australia. I ask if this will still work without the addition of potassium nitrate?
 
Jesse WW said:
Thanks for the replies. I do understand it is not a resistant finish - its however for a display piece rather than a user, so it wont be seeing much wear n tear.
My intention for using nitre salts as opposed to a torch is because i though it would be a lot easier to control the temperature and get a more consistent finish throughout the entire piece. I like what coldsteelburns suggested, but i feel this technique might be a little difficult to achieve a consistent finish on larger more complicated shapes.

What mknife suggested is pretty much exactly what i had in mind. I'm not able to get my hands on potassium nitrate however due to laws in Australia. I ask if this will still work without the addition of potassium nitrate?
Click to expand...

Same here in Canada,
After Nine Eleven all the rules changed pushed by the US, but you can still get all the stuff in America - isn't that odd ?


I can still get very small amounts from a pharmacy special order.
 
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