salt pot supplies

B . Buxton

B . Buxton

Joined
Jul 8, 2001
Messages
3,623
OK guys, I'm thinking about building a salt pot for heat treating, the high temp salts. So not being the sharpest knife in the drawer,I need lots of help when it comes to locating and purchasing the right parts. So does anyone have an assembly instruction, showing where and exactly what I need and where I can get it along with prices.
I've got an old forge that I will convert, for the chamber and use the same gas burner that works on my forge if this is at all possible. But the ss pipe, thermocouplers, pyrometer, etc, etc, etc. I have no idea of exactly what I need. Don't just send me to a tutorial that suggests several different parts, I need and want exact precise parts and numbers if at all possible and where I can get them.

Thanks,

Bill
 
Im standing by too on this one because most people just build their own "one of a kind" salt pots. My latest one is much smaller than the others and only has one burner instead of two. I have found that there is hot and cold spots in salt pots. My new one is a weed burner shooting into an old cut down ss fire extenquisher that has koa wool and itc 100. The tube is about 1 1/2"dia. stainless only 6" long. I use a hand held Omega pyrometer and stainless 1/4" thermocouple. I can test for cold spots by dipping the thermocouple deep and shallow in the salt. I really like this pot but havent tried it yet, maybe today. The weed burner is so easy compared to a fan blower and it can be adjusted with a needle valve to maintain a steady heat easily. I have two of these and plan to use one for martempering gun springs (low temp) Both are small but if I wanted to do a long blade I could build a third pot and use both burners from the small pots. With both burners the temps can be adjusted individually to get the salt stabil in temp from top to bottom. The thermocouple will double as a stirring stick.
 
:D me three
maybe Kevin well help out with some part numbers and info?

I want to see if I can burn some paint off my ceiling,, just kidding, but I do want to build one too,
 
exactly Dan, when I build something that works really well for me, I can tell you what and where I got every part, plus the prices, and I know those will vary from supplier to supplier.
Also I can tell you where and how to place each piece so there is no guess work and illiminates any head scratching when the final assembly takes place. Thats what I'm asking for. I've read several warning about salt pots and I don't want to be surprised or worse injured in any way because I assumed something wrong and purchased the wrong parts or messed up during assembly.

Thanks again,

Bill
 
Hi Bill,

Here's a start for you:

Asco Solenoid valve
Cat # 8262 G78
Fuel gas - 40 psi

Dongan Interchangeable Ignition Transformer
Cat # A06-SA6
120V primary, 6000V secondary, 20 milliamp

For controls, pretty much any PID controller will do, however, Southeastern heater and controls seems to be helpful to knifemakers in setting up a system and has their own brand of controller.

Southeastern Controls: 1-800-992-8569

The above information was provided courtesy of Jim Fagan (1-386-649-4122) at Larry Harley's hammer-in earlier this year. He also has a nice drawing of how to hook everything up like you want. I've lost my copy, otherwise I'd scan it and post it for you. Just give him a call, or maybe find someone who was at the hammer-in who can send you a copy. They are pretty easy to build, but don't skimp on safety. The ignition transformer is an item that a lot of guys skimp on, but salts have the potential to be dangerous enough, exercise all available precautions, and be sure to get one for your system if you plan to automate it.

:)

-Darren
 
Sweany said:
http://www.tzknives.com/kf1136.html

turn key :D :D :D
Click to expand...

Oh boy does that red milk crate in the bottom photo bring back memories. When my system was down, or we were working on projects together I have stood on that very crate enough times.

The ignition transformer is a very fine idea. I wouldn't mind having Darren exand on that a bit myself.

My tips are to make sure to use solenoid valves whenever possible, to protect the expensive controllers, or fuse the living #&$$ out of the load lines. And try like heck to use 316L stainless tubes.
 
I still haven't figured out how to protect the wiring for the thermocouple in the salt. How do you guys do this? I think I'm just dense, this is a place where a drawing would make all the difference. I just about have all the parts to build mine but I'm not doing anything until I understand what I'm trying to do. And my imagination just ain't cutting it.
 
McMaster-Carr has some very long thermocouples. I just bought one that was 18", but they had a few more that was 24 and better iirc.
 
ok i have a controller, but i need a thermocouple and a solenoid valve.... what do i look for for specs? i have an omega76000 controller.
where can i buy solenoid and thermocouple? thanks guys. i'm really dying t get this thing going
 
ddavelarsen said:
I still haven't figured out how to protect the wiring for the thermocouple in the salt. How do you guys do this? I think I'm just dense, this is a place where a drawing would make all the difference. I just about have all the parts to build mine but I'm not doing anything until I understand what I'm trying to do. And my imagination just ain't cutting it.
Click to expand...

The actual wiring never comes near the salts. The thermocoupler consists of a long iconel sheathed probe that has metalic leads inside. At the top of this probe is a plastic housing that has terminals to attach your wiring to the controller. Loosen two screws, take half of the plastic housing off and then attach the wiring, then reassemble.

Often what is done is the iconel probe is bent at 90 degrees about 4" down from the plastic housing and this is set on the top of the salt vessel. So, as you may be able to visualize, the plastic housing and the wires leading to it are around 4" to the side of the top of the salt container.

Readings are taken from the very tip of the probe, the rest of the length is for getting the tip in deeper.
 
Salt pot build

If we can get a play by play build

part#'s wiring schematic and Blue prints of a sort..
all together

I'll post it on the Knifemakers site.
with your name and site
it can't hurt your sales...


some parts here and some there just confuses guys like me :(
so someone can you lead us down the path..

I'd like it to be a little more difficult than turn key though :)
just a little :D
 
jhiggins said:
McMaster-Carr has some very long thermocouples. I just bought one that was 18", but they had a few more that was 24 and better iirc.
Click to expand...


Could I be bold enough to get and idea from you of what they are charging? Prices have been going up and I have been shopping around for alternative suppliers.
 
Looking to do a low temp salt bath to draw in. Where do you get the low temp salts and how do you mix them???????

Larry
 
Larry, most people use Nitre Blue salts for the low temp from Brownells. No mixing and it stores nice and clean in a white solid block. Also doubles as a blueing salts.
 
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