Salt SE Sharpening Angle?

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John_0917

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Apr 15, 2014
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Weird question here: what is the sharpening angle from the factory for the plain edge part of a Spyderedge blade?

I’m talking about the last 1/4” or so after the serrations end before the point.
 
There are angle gauges you can buy that will show you the exact angle. But when I sharpen most of my Spyderco serrated/Spyderedged blades I just kind of go with the flow so to speak. I was lucky enough to snag a few sets of the old/discontined Spyderco 701 Profiles. There are corners and radii on those stones that you can almost perfectly fit into the spikes and scallops of most of Spyderco's serration patterns.

For some strange reason I've talked to about 4 guys lately who have found some Spyderco 701 Profiles from Ebay Sellers and some knife dealers who must have had some left over stock. Spyderco is about to release at some point a new sharpening kit>> it is called the GAUNTLET. I've been waiting on pins and needles for some time now anticipating this new kit because I've heard it has some interesting tools to sharpen serrations with.

You can use Spyderco's 204 Sharpmaker system and if you do I highly recommend you buy all the extra stones you can buy with it>> i.e. the Ultra-Fine, The Diamond and the CBN stones you can buy extra for it. If you are serious about doing really good knife maintenance it is money well spent I can assure you. Or you can wait for the release of the GAUNTLET system as I am. Also there was some platter chatter about them doing some more 701 Profiles but they apparently lost some of the tooling. I do hope they remedy that because those 701 Profiles are a very nice sharpening tool. Keep us informed and don't get discouraged because sharpening Spyderedges isn't nearly as hard as a lot of guys have made it out to be. It is just a bit time consuming but the results are well worth it.
 
I just use the 30 deg setting on the sharpmaker and do 3-4 strokes on the bevel side to every 1 stroke on the non bevel side. Works very well, especially when working up to the extra fine rods.
 
I forgot to mention that I am using Lansky system with the various hones, I was thinking maybe the 30* with the course diamond to set a clear bevel then go to fine and ultra fine ceramic at 1000 grit? 1000 is the highest I have currently.
 
It's the same angle as the serrations are, whatever that may be.
 
I suggest using a sharpie to paint the edge and seeing where you cut. I still use a lansky for certain knives and there is an "art" to clamp placement and angle selection.
 
I have the Byrd Hawkbill and tested out the Sharpmaker today, seems to be 40degrees which is what I heard from most reports serrations are at. The last small plain edge portion of mine is the same angle.

Use a sharpie to mark up your bevel and check. It's the best way to verify.
 
blueblur said:
I just use the 30 deg setting on the sharpmaker and do 3-4 strokes on the bevel side to every 1 stroke on the non bevel side. Works very well, especially when working up to the extra fine rods.
Click to expand...

Yes this would work fine providing that your serrations aren't very banged up. Now when the scallops and spikes are really dinged up and damaged I've used some diamond files to get the worst of the minor damage eliminated. In many cases you can use those Spyderco 701 Profiles and just follow the angle on the serration side and you should do OK. Or even the GOLDENSTONE of Spyderco's would work well too.
 
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