San Mai core metal

K

Ken H>

Joined
Dec 31, 2011
Messages
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Hello all, as ya'll know I've been playing around making SS San Mai lately. I've used 15N20 for the core layer, but am wondering if 1095 (0r 1075) might be better for the core between the 416SS cladding. etching with FeCl makes a really nice black etch but it's not that durable in use, even with boiling in water to help set the oxide. I'm thinking with the 416 SS cladding the patina developed on the core would be a nice contrast and more durable in use. Perhaps cutting lemons to push the development of patina.

My question, will the patina developed with 1095 (or 1075) be darker and more pronounced than patina on 15N20 core?

Thanks for any info,
Ken H>
 
Ken H> said:
Hello all, as ya'll know I've been playing around making SS San Mai lately. I've used 15N20 for the core layer, but am wondering if 1095 (0r 1075) might be better for the core between the 416SS cladding. etching with FeCl makes a really nice black etch but it's not that durable in use, even with boiling in water to help set the oxide. I'm thinking with the 416 SS cladding the patina developed on the core would be a nice contrast and more durable in use. Perhaps cutting lemons to push the development of patina.

My question, will the patina developed with 1095 (or 1075) be darker and more pronounced than patina on 15N20 core?

Thanks for any info,
Ken H>
Click to expand...

Steel without nickel will etch darker.
 
That's my thinking also - and why I was thinking 1095 or 1070 would be a better choice for core in San Mai.
 
O1 will etch darker than either of those I think and develope more of a patina when the etch wares off
Plus it's a better steel than either of steels mentioned
 
Well shucks, why didn't I order O1 rather than the steels I ordered! :( Oh well, I'll "get by" with the steels I've got for now. Thanks for the info.
 
52100 is a common core I’ve seen with stainless San Mai. I used it once and it did well for color contrast. I’ve seen but not used CruForge V as the core, it appears to get pretty black. If 15n20, 1095, and 1075 are what you have on hand, I’d think either of the 10xx would do better than the 15n20. I’ve gotten a pretty good black on 1095 with a coffee etch in damascus. No experience with 1075 to help, but the lack of nickel has to fair better.
 
O2 is the ultimate for a dark etch. It’s not commonly available though. Look for high carbon and high manganese for dark etches. You want low chromium and low nickel too.
 
I will give my personal advice on this subject:
Picking a core steel for its ability to take a dark FC etch is like picking a wife by the color lipstick she wears.

You want the attributes of the steel, not the temporary look of an etch that will wipe off or wear away. 52100 is a common core because it gets HARD and holds a good edge. 1095, W-2, 1080, 1075, 1084, O-1 all are good core steels, too …. but not because the etch dark.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Picking a core steel for its ability to take a dark FC etch is like picking a wife by the color lipstick she wears.
Click to expand...
Oh, I would agree with you on that Stacy, but I do know one thing for sure - you let the wife pick her own color lipstick!!

Making San Mai has a two fold reason, I want to learn new things, and the wife LOVES the beauty of the dark edge of the core between the SS cladding. That's the force driving me for that dark edge, a dark edge that will last with use. I'm not at all sure any core material will hold the nice black etched color, but in use will more rely on the patina that will develop in use. Hence my question about what metal would develop the darkest patina in use.

Where I looking for the "best" blade here I'd stay with my AEB-L that is about the best "bang for buck" around. Even step up to the next level with S35V which is actually less expensive than making SS clad San Mai. The search for that fabled "dark edge" is all about giving the wife the "color lipstick" she wants :)

Ken H>
 
I know several chaps who married a hot pink pair of lips. It turned out to be a costly error. They would have done much better if they looked at what was under the lipstick … because just like the dark etched blade … when it comes off you have to be willing to live with it..
 
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