sanded a blade. Tips on removing the shine?

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Hi! So I used some 80 grit sandpaper on a Spyderco and I really like how all the writing has been removed. But the blade is now shiny and looks almost polished. Any tips on the next step to maybe remove that? Should I use a higher grit sandpaper? Or force a patina via lemon? Any ideas are appreciated. Thank you!
 
80 grit is pretty course, I don't see how it would leave much of a real shine. Removing the scratches by going higher in grits will create an even shiner finish.

What blade steel is it? Which knife?
 
80 grit is pretty course, I don't see how it would leave much of a real shine. Removing the scratches by going higher in grits will create an even shiner finish.

What blade steel is it? Which knife?

I was thinking the same thing, you can't even go all that much lower than 80 (compared to going higher). Tumbling/Stonewashing would get rid of the shine probably but not the easiest thing to do necessarily, I could see going a bit lower with the coarseness helping as well.
One more case of "pictures help", something to consider since it can vary would we and you might consider shiny.
 
I was thinking the same thing, you can't even go all that much lower than 80 (compared to going higher). Tumbling/Stonewashing would get rid of the shine probably but not the easiest thing to do necessarily, I could see going a bit lower with the coarseness helping as well.
One more case of "pictures help", something to consider since it can vary would we and you might consider shiny.
Gotcha. Will upload a pic asap!

80 grit is pretty course, I don't see how it would leave much of a real shine. Removing the scratches by going higher in grits will create an even shiner finish.

What blade steel is it? Which knife?
Its a Spyderco Ronin 1... VG10.
 
Pic doesn't show well, because I stink at photos. Will get one during the daytime. Will show much better!
 
images of the Ronin 1 online look like it has a dull gray bead-blast finish. "Shiny" to you is the reflection of light off the many ridges from the scratch-pattern created by the coarse sanding job that also cut away the bead-blasted surface. One option is to have the surface blasted again (could have done this in the first place to remove the writing). Alternatively, sand away the entire surface finish to make it uniform, then use SuperBlue or another caustic solution to force a stain on the "stainless" VG10. VG10 will not 'patina' easily, it is specifically formulated not to.

I suggest a bead-blasting - find someone with a cabinet near where you are or make a friend here who has one and would do the job.
 
You can take a piece of steel, preferably as smooth as possible but not mirror finished, and try out different grits of whatever abrasives you have on hand. Each on a fresh spot, and perhaps with different scratch patterns (in one direction, crossed, random.) See what you like the most, and aim for that. It won't take many minutes, if the test piece isn't hardened.
 
You can take a piece of steel, preferably as smooth as possible but not mirror finished, and try out different grits of whatever abrasives you have on hand. Each on a fresh spot, and perhaps with different scratch patterns (in one direction, crossed, random.) See what you like the most, and aim for that. It won't take many minutes, if the test piece isn't hardened.

Appreciate the advice. I think I may actually do as chiral said and find someone to bead blast it. I don't think I am capable of really improving it beyond what I managed. Truthfully surprised I didn't really mess it up.

images of the Ronin 1 online look like it has a dull gray bead-blast finish. "Shiny" to you is the reflection of light off the many ridges from the scratch-pattern created by the coarse sanding job that also cut away the bead-blasted surface. One option is to have the surface blasted again (could have done this in the first place to remove the writing). Alternatively, sand away the entire surface finish to make it uniform, then use SuperBlue or another caustic solution to force a stain on the "stainless" VG10. VG10 will not 'patina' easily, it is specifically formulated not to.

I suggest a bead-blasting - find someone with a cabinet near where you are or make a friend here who has one and would do the job.

Yes! Definitely a gray finish naturally. I loved that about it too. Don't know what SuperBlue is, but sounds like an idea. I will google it, thanks! Ah didn't know vg10 wouldn't patina easily. I am in nyc, doubt I find someone who would bead blast it for me. Maybe I can find someone on the forum who does that work... at a reasonable or less rate. :) Thanks for all the good info!
 
SuperBlue will put a blued finish on your steel similar to blued gun metal.
 
Hi! So I used some 80 grit sandpaper on a Spyderco and I really like how all the writing has been removed. But the blade is now shiny and looks almost polished. Any tips on the next step to maybe remove that? Should I use a higher grit sandpaper? Or force a patina via lemon? Any ideas are appreciated. Thank you!

What type of sandpaper (abrasive type) is it? If it's the garnet variety reserved for use on wood, that could explain it's tendency to polish instead of cut the steel.

An aluminum oxide or silicon carbide paper (Wet/Dry), would leave a much coarser finish at 80-grit, on steel. The garnet type isn't really hard enough to cut hardened steel effectively, which is why it could just burnish or polish instead, even at very coarse grit.
 
I don't think that super blue will blue stainless such as VG 10.
Oh, it will ;) I have a bottle that i have used on all manner of "stainless" materials. The finish rubs away relatively easily on such surfaces but it definitely works. I actually have never used it on non-stainless steel! :p
 
A piece of standard medium 7447 (maroon) scotchbrite should put a dull matte finish on it. Actually most any scotchbrite should.
 
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