sander/grinding question...

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Jan 26, 2002
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i was looking to buy a 4x36" sander, not for blade grinding (i already have a 2x72) but for flattening steel, some non-precision lapping of the backs of chisels, handplane blades and some stuff that's just too wide for a 2x72...i was looking at the Model SA446
Delta ShopMaster 4" Belt/6" Disc Sander

http://deltawoodworking.com/catalog/default.asp?cat_id=10&model_no=SA446

which seems to be ideal, especially as i can get it for $99....but the description says "for woodworking only"...now, i can't imagine why i wouldn't be able to do metalworking with it...maybe delta is just concerned about warranty issues since metalworking is a lot tougher on a tool than woodworking...can you guys think of any reason why this thing wouldn't be suitable? (with the proper belts, of course...)

another option is the grizzly combo sander, 4x36 belt, 6" disc but it's $20 more and i gotta pay for shipping...it's heavier, with a cast-iron body, but i don't know that i need to pay another $30 for that...but maybe you guys know it to be better than the delta?

here's the grizzly:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G1020&site=grizzly

and yes, i realize that these things might not be precision made with dead flat platens...so i figured on slapping in a piece of 3/16" precision ground O1...any reasons why that might not work out well with these kinds of sanders?

thanks muchly for your input...
 
one more question on that...does precision ground 01 come hardened or annealed? and if it's not hardened, do i majorly risk warping a piece that big, 3/16x4x15 (or so) in quenching it? or maybe it doesn't really need to be hardened for this application?

heck i don't even know how i'd get a piece that big to critical temperature anyway...
 
I have the previous model from delta ( Same tool, different paint job ;) ) Its got hundreds of hours with both wood and steel. I use the disc quite a bit for profiling and machining parts for folding knives. I don't grind blades on it any more but did a few, and the belt gets lots of use deburring and flattening parts.
I like it real well. Belt change is quick and easy, I leave the backstop/gaurd thing off. It doesn't work with thin stuff, and for thick stuff you don't need it.
The disc is aluminum, but I haven't had any trouble with the face going bad. And you could always put a peice of micarta on it.Its already drilled and tapped. I took the lower sheild off the disc also ( you would have to to put a micarta plate on it)just because it has to come on and off to change discs/paper. Not much of a safety issue when you have the work table on, and you pay attention to where all 10 fingers are. Something you should do with all power tools regardless of sheilds.
 
A few things to consider...heavier(griz) is more stable, less vibration. Also, Griz stuff is made in Taiwan (better shops and company oversight of all production and inspection) - Delta has made the cheapo move to mainland China and it shows on all the feedbacks on their products in recent years. Lots of warped castings and their service has gone down the tubes...my .02 & food for thought.

Bob
 
where did you hear that Griz's stuff was made in Taiwan? last i had heard it was all still from china. (at least their mini-mills and lathes)

i could be misinformed though.
 
I have used the belt like you have described for flattening steel and it worked great. What I did was remove the end cover and grind the blade lengthwise just downrange past the drive roller. I've also used the belt on the drive roller to grind lengthwise also. You do not want to use much pressure! What would help would be to use a wood block jig to hold the part, for safety and ease.Saves fingertips and knuckles! Keep checking so you don't burn your steel because heat build up is really quick.!
You will have to dip water cool quite often, more than you would probably think.
 
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