Sanding a handle without blending the lines/contours?

[SwissHeritageCo]

I'm trying to figure out if it's possible to properly sand a contoured handle (that I didn't initially shape) through the grits without blending it's crispy lines.

It's a scandi birdsbeak handle that I want to refinish but I like the crispy defined edges and don't want to accidentally blend them in the process. Whatever they did was on a belt sander and Ieft at a rough but functional grit... but I also have a few other scandi knives with these types of sharp edges that I'd like to tighten up too.

I'm not sure it's possible, especially if I really want to properly sand it through a few grits... but I figured I would ask you wizards for some tips anyway This would all be done by hand.

Any advice is much appreciated and I'll post the results!

 

[Hengelo_77]

Use hard backing.
I like differently shaped pieces of micarta for that.

 

[SwissHeritageCo]

Use hard backing.
I like differently shaped pieces of micarta for that.

That's a great idea, not sure why that didn't dawn on me. Thanks

 

[Taz]

I used to build fishing rods and I had some left over camo EVA grip material. Much harder than regular foam and they work well. Cork blocks also do pretty good, too.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I use micarta pieces or hardwood blocks.

 

[SwissHeritageCo]

Thanks fellas. I've been needing to get some of those smaller hard backed sandpaper holders for polishing my welts anyway, this seems like a good opportunity to try them out.

Some of the handles are dyed, so we'll see how crispy I can keep the edges. We'll know if I did a crap job because the ridges will be lighter in color

Appreciate the advice!

 

[Horsewright]

I too use hardwood blocks. I’ve glued a strip of leather to one side for a softer touch when needed.

 

[Crag the Brewer]

Having a hard backer block also keeps pins and hardware even with the surface of the rest of the handle material, especially wood

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Like Dave, I also have blocks of g-hard maple with leather on one side. That side is great for doing convex edge finishes. However, it will blend crisp lines fast, so don't use it on and delineated lines.

My favorite leather backed sanding/polishing stick is a 2" wide by 1" thick by 24" long piece of maple. I shaped both ends to a comfortable handle ( like a file handle). put a simple clamp setup just in front of both ends (2X2X1/2"slab of wood and a bolt/wingnut), and put leather between the clamps. I clamp on a piece of 2" wide abrasive strip and use it l;ike a big two handled file to sand down and then polish the convex bevels on Japanese blades. If I want a hard backing, I just switch the clamps to the other side. For polishing, I have a similar shaped stick which has leather on both sides. I use one side with tripoli and the other with rouge. I'll try and spot it when in the shop tomorrow and take some photos.