Sanding handle light colored G10

[SteweysForge]

So I'm working on my first few knives. This one has cocobolo scales that I laminated onto black and green G10 liners. I'm sanding the front edge first, and it seems like the black liner is polluting the light green liner (and maybe even the wood)? The pale green liner just looks dingy and I can't seem to get it clean, continuing sanding doesn't seem to make any difference. I've sanded with 120 and then 220 but haven't gone further yet due to this issue. Is there a trick?

 

[Taz]

Is it natural/jade green G10? It looks more like a grey color to me? If it is the natural/Ghost Jade G10, that material is translucent, so the darker wood and black G10 will make it look darker.

It's hard to tell, but the Cocobolo looks burnt at the front end of the handle at the flat just above the liners, too. The angled portion looks much lighter than the flat portion, which looks like it overheated? Try hand sanding with 120, 220, then 400. Wet sanding may help as well?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

From the photo, I'm betting the belt was running too fast. Cocobolo burns easily. Colored laminates, like your green G-10, may look very different on the end grain than the top surface. As with the cocobolo, it looks like it was sanded at too fast speed. The other thing is it needs to be taken to a fine finish. 800-200 grit is good for G-10. The cocobolo should be to at least 400 grit.

 

[SteweysForge]

Is it natural/jade green G10? It looks more like a grey color to me? If it is the natural/Ghost Jade G10, that material is translucent, so the darker wood and black G10 will make it look darker.

It's hard to tell, but the Cocobolo looks burnt at the front end of the handle at the flat just above the liners, too. The angled portion looks much lighter than the flat portion, which looks like it overheated? Try hand sanding with 120, 220, then 400. Wet sanding may help as well?

It was an assortment pack of G10 and just said green but yes its a little bit translucent... now you mention that maybe it was a bad choice between black and dark wood.

As for the cocobolo I'm sure its not burnt, the front edge had way less sanding time than the beveled edge (literally just seconds) and I was running the VFD at like 15hz and only on 120 grit. If the belt was burning the wood the bevels would had been burnt much worse and they show no signs of burning at all. After that it was all hand sanded but at 220 grit it seemed to just get darker and darker so I did not continue. I was assuming maybe the black dust from the G10 was embedding into the surface of the green G10 and cocobolo. I tried a brief bit of wet sanding - wasn't sure if it was a good idea or not, but didn't seem to make any difference with the 220.

If there isn't anything else to try I guess its not the end of the world if the front edge is darker. I don't expect my first couple knives to be perfect and I am doing a lot of experimentation.

 

[Taz]

Try going back down to 120 for a bit by hand with a firm backer. If the Cocobolo isn't burnt, it may be the oxidization on it? It will darken a bit over time, so if there wasn't much sanding, that may still be on there. Usually it's lighter colored, like on the beveled front of the scales, when it's freshly sanded. Darker means burnt or oxidized typically. Cocobolo can burn/overheat quickly, especially with the oils in it. Or if the sandpaper is clogged/gummy from the oils and dust, it could look darker, too.

Use some Denatured Alcohol on the front of the scales. It will help pull some of the oil out of the Cocobolo and wet everything down. Check the green G10 color when wet. Then sand 120, 220, 400 by hand. Often, G10 will be a lighter color when it's sanded until it's wet or very high polish. Edge view of G10 may look different than side view of G10 as well. Most Green G10 is either ghost jade/natural, OD green, darker hunter green, or toxic bright neon green.

G10 colors from a BFC sponsor:

G10 Sheet, Scales, Liners & Handle Material - Alpha Knife Supply - AKS™

Solid color & multicolor G10. Extensive selection of thicknesses and colors. Fast shipping and excellent prices on G10 Sheet, G10 scales & handle material.

www.alphaknifesupply.com

I am guessing you may have OD green? Do you have a piece we can see the flat side on?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Ghost Green G-10 isn't sold in sample packs. I have a 50# slab of it. It is becoming a rare commodity.

 

[Cliff Carter Knives]

Based on the pic, wood is burnt for sure. If it’s jade green it will absorb a lot of color from the sandwiching materials. Knock the fronts back down to 60 on your grinder at a snail’s speed, then work up the grits. Good luck!

Edit to add - when sanding any materials that are stacked, make sure to consistently wipe the slurry or you can imbed color/material in one another.

 

[SteweysForge]

Try going back down to 120 for a bit by hand with a firm backer. If the Cocobolo isn't burnt, it may be the oxidization on it? It will darken a bit over time, so if there wasn't much sanding, that may still be on there. Usually it's lighter colored, like on the beveled front of the scales, when it's freshly sanded. Darker means burnt or oxidized typically. Cocobolo can burn/overheat quickly, especially with the oils in it. Or if the sandpaper is clogged/gummy from the oils and dust, it could look darker, too.

Use some Denatured Alcohol on the front of the scales. It will help pull some of the oil out of the Cocobolo and wet everything down. Check the green G10 color when wet. Then sand 120, 220, 400 by hand. Often, G10 will be a lighter color when it's sanded until it's wet or very high polish. Edge view of G10 may look different than side view of G10 as well. Most Green G10 is either ghost jade/natural, OD green, darker hunter green, or toxic bright neon green.

G10 colors from a BFC sponsor:

G10 Sheet, Scales, Liners & Handle Material - Alpha Knife Supply - AKS™

Solid color & multicolor G10. Extensive selection of thicknesses and colors. Fast shipping and excellent prices on G10 Sheet, G10 scales & handle material.

www.alphaknifesupply.com

I am guessing you may have OD green? Do you have a piece we can see the flat side on?

Not oxidized I don't believe - it was not that dark to start with. It appeared similar to the bevels, and got darker with the light hand sanding at 220.

I will start over at low grit, would denatured be the best option for 'wet' sanding? I think I have some of that around.

I have a couple greens, neither seem to be on that list. Opal green from Pops... more turquoise colored. Though this one I am using now does seem to be very similar but a bit more pale than the Jade green in that link. Could just be the lighting/monitor color difference. I'll take a pic...

Here is from the same piece itself:

Edit to add - when sanding any materials that are stacked, make sure to consistently wipe the slurry or you can imbed color/material in one another.

It seems to me this might be most likely whats happening, I just need to start back at lower grit and sand wet and wipe as you say. Would be nice if I can get this front edge not so dingy looking, thanks all!

 

[Taz]

That looks like natural/jade G10 or G11 or whatever the technical name for it is. There is some variation between batches.

You can use water for wet sanding and wipe down with Denatured alcohol between grits.

 

[ea42]

That jade green is a basically opaque G10 so when it's sandwiched between two dark layers it's going to reflect that absolute lack of light making it appear dark and black. That's what you're seeing and it's not really going to change no matter what you do. You can see that with the piece of black G10 you have underneath it. Now imaging another piece of black or dark material sandwiching it and you wind up with grey, which is exactly what you have on those handles. It's best to use that G10 as a surface material with a light background underneath. I don't believe G10 absorbs any kind of dust or color, it's too dense. The only thing that might occur is the fibers might become a bit tinted, but in my experience any foreign coloring disappears with buffing.

Eric

 

[navman]

Try wet sanding through a few grits.