Sanding/Refinishing Khuk handles

etp777

etp777

Joined
Aug 12, 2002
Messages
2,259
OK, I'm going to Truoil my villager handle here.

Was wondering how far y'all would sand it down before applying the oil. This will never be a beauty queen, as wood in it is rather oepen grained for my taste, and has some flaws that I'll never be able to sand out(in chakma and karda) without completely changing handle shape and making it rather unusable.

So anyways, sanding before oil finish. I've taken handles to 400 or 600 in past with good results(bocote and oak, respectively). Or maybe other way around.

So want suggestions both for this khuk, which is one of the 12" villagers, which will be my carry knife for camping now.

Then want additional advice on the two prettier khuks (15" AKs), which I'll be refinishing for show, and probably end up selling cuz I'm poor(but love being able to work with these great blades) so that I can then spend the same money on more khuks to play with. These khuks will get nicer wood handles. Probably tulipwood, redheart, bocote, oak or East indian rosewood(or some combination of those) just because that's what I have around right now. Once I get get idea of how much I want to sand them, am going to take a chunk or two of each, sand them down, and finish them, then play around with way they look with brass and plastic spacers, and see what combinations look best. THen will also rehandle chkma and karda to match(one with each wood if I use two, or both with same if I only use one wood).

As always, all adivce is appreciated. And all three will be recieving my attempt of a convex edge, thanks to Dan's CD.
 
Here's what I did on the wood-handled Patang I got from Uncle on Friday:

1. Clean completely with Mineral Spirits to remove as much "red" as possible.

2. The handle was too big around for my fat fingers, so I sized it down a bit at the belt sander starting at 50 grit. Hit it with 80 and then 120 grit belts until I got the final shape I desired.

3. At this point, I switch the power tools off and clamp it down in a vise and begin to hand-sand. There is a great temptation to sand it "shoe-polish-style" (which does work well - and fast)...but, I wanted this one to be extra special, so I made sure to carefully sand it along the grain, not across it. I did this with 1" wide strips of sandpaper starting at 150 and going up to 800.

4. After I have achieved an even smoothness, I took it to a buffing wheel with white (not green) rouge. I could have left it right there and it would have been just fine. The buffing really brings out the grain of the wood.

5. With it completely buffed, I cleaned it again - this time with acetone, then started putting on layers of my "wiping oil" finish.


I cannot begin to explain the difference in appearance. After it dries, I'll take some pictures (forgot to take "before" pics....oh well).

It's almost dreamy - the best of both worlds. You get the gloss of a buffed finish without losing touch with the wood. Technically, it's still a satin finish, but it's very grippy and not oily. It's also shiny, but not like varnish/lacquer.

I'll make sure to do a proper write up later. Too excited right now to put it all together in a way that makes sense.


This process works the same for horn - just stop after buffing (no oil finish).
 
Can't top that.

For more reading, Search on the following keywords:
oil sand wood
for a good list of threads.
 
Well that sure seems to about cover it. GOnna have to get buffer up and running(which hoefully will jsut involve some wheels and compound).

This villager I'm being lazy on and did some work against the grain, but the finish on this one is mainly for protection, not looks. But definitely will keep with grain on others, and thanks for the reminder. That will also help choose how Ihandle them, as I think at least one of those boards is cut at weird angle, grainwise.
 
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