this is my method for producing a truely mirrored edge (yes I own a Sebenza):
1. Get some Micromesh sandpaper, this is very high quality sandpaper. It goes as high as approximately 4000-6000 grit. It is commonly available as acrylic and plexiglass polisher at auto stores, and even more common at well stocked plastic scale hobby shops as part of a high-gloss polishing kit for model cars. It can also be purchased directly from the manufacturer (Micro Surface). contact me if you need to find out how to get it. It is not a must, but it produces superior results, especially if you are after a high polish (in general). Else, get all grades of paper as high as you can (I think regular common silicon carbide sandpaper goes as high as 2000 grit).
2. I use a Lansky for this method for reasons I will soon mention.
3. Using the Lansky, reprofile the edge to the narrowest angle (I believe it is 17 degrees on the Lansky). Do this on each side of the blade until you raise a burr, then do the other side. Continue through with the smoother stones, as smooth as the stones you own will allow (I bought the ultra fine yellow stone).
4. Now, starting with 3200 micromesh, roughly 320 grit, TIGHTLY wrap a piece of the micromesh around a lansky stone, make sure it is as flat on the stone as possible. Use the Lansky in the normal fashion with this wrapped stone except instead of moving the stone INTO the blade edge, move it AWAY from the edge, else you will dull the edge most likely. You should be able to discern a difference in surface roughness on the edge. Do this for each side of the blade.
5. Repeat step 4 with the next grits (3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000).
6. You will have an edge that is truely a mirror and is truely shaving sharp. Whether this is the kind of edge you want is another matter entirely.
Notes:
1. On Micromesh:
Micromesh is special in that is engineered to be extremely consistent in roughness. Regular stones or sandpaper rated at grit 'X' actually is only roughly that roughness, with spots that are rougher or smoother, not enough to feel, but enough to effect a polishing (of any sort). Also, 3200 micromesh is only roughly equal to 320 grit, but because of the property I mentioned above, will produce a finer polish than with 320 grit of regular sandpaper.
Micromesh is more expensive, but lasts easily 3 times longer than regular sandpaper, and results are by far more consistent. It is also available in extremely fine grits not available with regular paper or stones.
2. On using the Lansky:
This is the only time I advocate using the Lansky, it is by far superior to the Sharpmaker for reprofiling and mainting a consistent angle. The blade is reprofiled initially so that later, when you use the sandpaper wrapping method (step 4), the sandpaper meets the edge at precisely the same angle. I don't know about you, but I am unable to match an angle by hand on a stone, never mind with sandpaper and a phonebook or something.
Using this method will NOT produce a convex edge. However what you DO end up with is an extremely fine mirrored edge that cuts like crazy. If you take a regular edge (non mirrored) such as the edges that come on Sebenzas these days, and slice a piece of paper, looking closely you will see that there are fibres of the paper that were not 'cut' but 'torn'. (i.e. it was not a 'clean' cut) Slicing a piece of paper with the mirrored edge produces a much cleaner cut, far less (if any) paper fibres. Of course you can feel it too, the blade glides through far more easily. You can produce a pseudo-convex edge using the Lansky though. This is a method that has already been discussed on the forums: sharpen at 17 degrees, then a little at the next higher degree, and then very little at the next, etc. I hope you see what I mean.
Anyway, this is not a post about whether such an edge is more utilitarian or what not, but how to produce a fine mirrored edge.
They carry from 100 grit to 2500 grit, with the finer grits being harder to fine in most ordinary hardware stores. As they note on their page, "You have a choice between plain backed paper and PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) backing." 
