Sandpaper Question (Calling David/Obsessed with Edges)

AFAustin

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I use sandpaper for a lot of things with my knives---sometimes for sharpening, and frequently for modifying or shaping the blade, smoothing the scales, etc. I have a good progression of grit sizes, from 100 to 3000 and almost all sizes in between (and lots of micromesh pads, etc., which are great). I know that wet/dry silicon carbide is recommended and that is mostly what I have. However, in the coarser grits---100, 150, 220, and P320, I have plain old "hardware store" yellow aluminum oxide, simply because I had a bunch lying around and wanted to make use of it.

I know the wet/dry is more durable, but does it also have other advantages in my applications? In other words, should I replace my coarse grit aluminum oxide with wet/dry silicon carbide, or am I OK using up the AO?

Thanks for any advice. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone, but I mentioned David/OWE because I know he makes great use of sandpaper.

Andrew
 
Wet and dry has another advantage, if you use it with a sheet of glass, you can just wet the paper and stick it to the glass. It'll stay flat and not move until you peel it off.
The AO tends to lift and peel itself off.
 
If you find the AO useful, I see no reason not to take advantage of it. As mentioned, the backing on that paper may be the issue, if it curls up. If you use it dry (and if it's never been previously wet), that might not be a problem though, so long as the paper stays relatively flat. I think the AO paper ordinarily used with wood may not refine edges very well, because it's grit is so large and 'blocky', compared to SiC. But, it may still be useful for quickly hogging metal off a blade, if wanting to thin it or otherwise alter the grind/profile of the blade.

I have an aerosol spray can of temporary adhesive that I sometimes use with my wet/dry SiC paper over glass. It's called 'Weldwood Multipurpose Spray Adhesive', and it can be sprayed on the back of any paper you wish to stick down. You spray a light coat on the paper backing, then wait a few minutes for it to become dry to the touch, but still tacky. Then it can be pressed onto glass or whatever hard surface you might be using under the paper. When you're done with the paper, or after it wears out, it can be peeled off relatively easily, leaving minimal residue. I think glass is ideal for use with it, because it cleans up so easily. If you have issues with any of your paper curling up at the edges in use, this is one way to make it stay flat, if using water isn't an option.


David
 
David and parbajtor, thanks for your comments and info.---just what I needed to know. :thumbup:

Andrew
 
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