Sandpaper sharpening

You really need a good, elevated stand/holder, if you want to (seriously) sharpen with sandpaper. And still you'll have to change the paper quite often, so clamps should be easy and fast to operate. I'd imagine you wear a lot of sandpaper when maintaining an edge on an "over HRc65" knife.

I fashioned a sandpaper holder myself a while ago. Not anything so refined like that one. But it holds the paper on a flat surface, without any glue or tapes.

I find sandpaper pretty messy too, especially when worked with a lot.
 
nozh2002 said:
Wet sandparer has silicon carbides whish works better on high vanadium steel then aluminium oxides (ceramic)..
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Silicon carbides are plainly harder than alumina, iirc. But wouldn't adhesion be a great factor when sandpaper is concerned, more than the type of abrasive even? I've had some cheap paper shed particles very fast.
 
This is a version of the "Scary Sharp" method which has been on the internet for many years, Steve LaMantia first posted it on the woodworking usenet group :

http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM

Yes the quality of the sandpaper makes a huge difference. The blurb on the webpage about hones being inferior because the grains are masked and inconsistent is not factual.

Lee studied both the nature of the hones and the edges they produced under high magnification in his book on sharpening. Some hones have inconsistent abrasive grains, some are quite consistent.

-Cliff
 
3M and others also make very high quality microfinishing and lapping films (some with PSA backing) in everything from ceric oxide to chrome oxide to diamond (Corning even makes diamond films for lapping fiber optic cables) from coarse grits down to .3 microns in Aluminum oxide and 0.1 microns in diamond. 3M films seem to be the most widely available though, and I haven't had any shedding with their SiC, CrO or AlO films.
 
This link is from Anton who live in Tokyo (I know him from Russian bladeforum). He speak Japanese and know those guys personaly. He also sad that Rokstead edge is flat on one side and convex on another, to sharpe flat one you use flat basement (most important part of this device as I understand) - which must be very flat, for convex side you should use special soft rubber insert on top of basement.

Rokstaed made knives exactly 64-65HRC from ZDP189 and YXR7. So this is how they recommend to sharpen them.

...I always amaized to what extent of sophistication Japanese can came and not only in knives...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
It is very unfortunate also that in Russia in major cityes like Moscow and St.Petersburg you may just come to knife shop - "Style and Classica" and buy those Rokstead knives and it is almost impossible to buy them here in US.

Thanks, Vassili.

P.S. They still too expensive for my, but sill it is kind of limitation on my opinion.
 
I use sandpaper with my Sharpmaker for reprofiling work. The Sharpmaker rods serve as guides.

Cut the sandpaper in strips of 4 cm. Then, apply scotch tape to the back of the sandpaper lengthwise, using only half of the scotch tape thickness. You'll need the other half to complete the wrap.

Then, wrap the sandpaper around the rod. Simply stick the edge to the remaining half of the scotch tape, and you insert the wrapped rod into the sharpmaker base, and you have your regular angles. You can only use the flats, but at lower grits reprofiling is really quick.

I find that if I cut a sheet of sandpaper in two lengthwise, I get 4 inch strips, maximizing the amount of strips from a single sheet. You can go a long way with a single sheet.

Another advantage is that the sandpaper is completely removable. I usually only need one flat per knife. I then remove the sandpaper and use the rods normally for the finish.

Guy
 
Lavan said:
What's wrong with this? Sandpaper sharpening with the mousepad effect.
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Nothing, it will just convex your edges, the above knives need a flat grind on one side. You don't need anything beyond a piece of wood, or glass, or plastic to lay the sandpaper on .

-Cliff
 
You know what would be great? If there was somewhere you could buy that entire grit-progression spectrum, from 180 to 2000, in one package. Like a sandpaper variety pack. Buying them all separately is expensive!

Is there such a thing?
 
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