Sandvik 13C26

samuraistuart

samuraistuart

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Dec 21, 2006
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I have this Kershaw Leek, 1660CKT Oct07. They had just changed from 440A to the Sandvik 13C26 in May of 07. I don't know about you guys, but I LOVE this 13C26 steel. For me, it seems to be the perfect knife steel, and I understand it was developed for straight razors. It can take a scary sharp edge, it doesn't take much to put on that scary sharp edge, and will hold it quite well. And with right at 13 points Cr, it is corrosion resistant. The only thing is, as a new knife maker with limited equipment, I would have to send this steel out for heat treatment. I think AKS has it, and they also have AEB-L which seems identical.

For those of you who have worked with it, how was it to file and sand (by hand). Were you able to heat treat it with your equipment, or send it off? How did it perform? I have an itch to build a few paring and petty style kitchen knives out of it. Thanks!
 
I actually heat treated a piece of 13C26 earlier this afternoon.

Unless you have the proper equipment, I would strongly suggest sending it out for heat treat.

It seems to work well with hand tools, and seems to be a great performer.

It will take an extremely fine edge with minimal effort.

I'm seriously thinking about making a few kitchen knives with it.
 
This steel is one of my favorites to work with next to 52100. Make sure the company you send it to can do a cryo treatment that will bring its full potential out.

This stuff grinds easy and can take a fine edge. I personally have only bought the aeb-l version of it, but from what I understand its the same steel just made in different places. Chuck at Aks has .130 in stock and says he had to beg the manufacture for that thickness. So I wouldn't plan on making any woods choppers in this steel.
 
You might be surprised how many big-time makers of custom kitchen knives and razors are using AEB-L/13c26 in some rather expensive and highly-respected pieces. I certainly was.

It's fascinating stuff. Actually one of the older stainless steels and pretty low-tech compared to today's modern steels, but it has very high corrosion-resistance, easy sharpenability,good toughness, and exceedingly fine grain with respectable edge-holding. Retained austenite is reported to be a problem without cryo; pro-level HT is indicated. It also happens to be very affordable.
 
The other pice of good news from what I have heard is that you can "cryo" it with dry ice and solvent. That is not the case with some of the newer PM steels like Elmax. Their recommended minimum "cryo" temp is about 20-30 degrees colder than you can get with dry ice and acetone or kerosene.
One little rumor that I have heard about the simple old school Swedish stainless steels like 12C27, 13C26 and AEB-L is that with their realtively low alloy content, very fine grain and fine carbides, they are supposedly a fair bit TOUGHER than other more "modern" cast stainless steels and also cleaner than some of their fellow low priced competitors.
 
I really adored my Kershaw Skyline with a Sandvik blade. Made the mistake of packing it in a box when I moved.....:grumpy:
I think I've given up searching- will have to repurchase.
 
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