Satin finishing a blade

spyken

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Apr 29, 2002
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ok, I want to try my first satin project. I've got a black ti ni coated blade which I want to satinize. I've gotten 200,400,600,800,1000 and 1200 grit abrasive paper. How do I go about it? Also, what's a scotchbrite finish? Is it the same scotchbrite green scouring pad for cleaning dishes (can't be, rite?)?

thanks for your help...
 
To satin finish it is a matter of preference. The best idea is to start with 600 grit wet and dry paper using a couple of drops of kerosene and rub along the blade with some stiff to back the paper - thick leather will do. If that is not getting the job done move down to 400 grit then back up to 600 grit. When you change the grit change the angle so as to pick up any scratch marks. For satin finish normally there is no need to go higher than 800 grit but again thats a matter of preference.

Scotchbrite is what you think it is but there are different grits available for different jobs also you can get it in belt form to go on different grinders.

Have fun.
 
Whelp, I'm sure no knifemaker. I have put satin finishes on a few knives, as much as is possible given the handle was obviously in the way and you can't really get down into those tight transition areas.

Scotchbrite works ok... there are more colors than green, and the real Scotchbrite brand is probably better than a lot of the cheapies sold as scouring pads. Gray, maroon I remember, but not what grit they are. Scotchbrite would be fine for removing the black coating.

Then I'd switch to sandpaper. Seems like the wet/dry sandpaper did a cleaner job, more uniform grit it seems(?). Another idea for something "stiff" behind the paper... try using popsicle sticks or stop by a medical supply place and get a box of tongue depressors (unsterilized are cheaper).

I've wrapped the sandpaper around it, worked ok. Agree the pro's start at one angle, then switch to finer grit and another angle to make sure they got all the previous scratches out. If you are sure you want, say, 400 or 600 final, you can start and finish with same grit. I'd do like JDEEBLADE suggested and try 600 grit first and you may be "done".

If you go past 600 to 800, 1000, 1500, it'll get progressively closer to mirror. In fact, 2000 is all but a buffed mirrored finish with a very fine "matte"-ing of the surface. Quite nice, but shiny.

Wet/dry is often sold in autoparts stores in the Bondo section.

Be careful or you'll round over crisp grind line transition from a flat to the (e.g.) hollow, blurring that nice change of surface. Stay on one surface at a time. Do the hollow or flat ground area first, then come back and do the flats. And tape the very edge of the knife with something more than thin tape, else you risk a really nice stupid mark on your fingers.
 
Can you tell us the knife you are working on and whether it is hollow or flat ground? Titanium Nitride is hard and you won't know exactly what the factory finish is like underneath until you get there. If there are significant vertical scratches and you want to convert the finish to horizontal to run parallel with the flats, you might have to back off to 320 grit. Try spray-gluing strips of wet/dry silicon carbide paper to a block of wood that is radiused to fit the hollows...
 
2000 is definitely about mirror finish. Have one now that I took to 2000 and I haven't gotten a picture yet that doesn't make it look like a mirror finish, though you can tell when you hold it.

That technically was hand rubbed though, not satin, as all in one direction, length of blade. Subtle difference(to be honest, not sure I know the extact nuances of difference between those two), but it is different
 
If run you a Grey Scotchbrite belt on it it will Put a nice satin finish on the blade. I am not sure how it will fair against Ti nitride though. Its the lazy knife makers method and has worked for me and many others.
 
Originally posted by Jeff Hall
Can you tell us the knife you are working on and whether it is hollow or flat ground? Titanium Nitride is hard and you won't know exactly what the factory finish is like underneath until you get there. If there are significant vertical scratches and you want to convert the finish to horizontal to run parallel with the flats, you might have to back off to 320 grit. Try spray-gluing strips of wet/dry silicon carbide paper to a block of wood that is radiused to fit the hollows...

crkt M1. it's sabre ground (flats + hollow ground). Do I need to dismantle the knife? Also, will starting with 240grit remove ti ni effectively? I'm quite worried about the hollow ground portion...

Is there a way I can protect the edges, or, will I just have to sharpen it up again?

thanks
 
I don't know too many knifemakers who'd recommmend rubbing out a sharpened blade from start to finish...Take the blade out of the knife, dull the edge, do the work, re-sharpen, and re-assemble. Always play it safe!
 
dismantle it
there are portions which you will not be able to access unless the blade is no longer attached to the handle
this is assuming you want an uniform finish
blunt the knife before rubbing, or wear cut resistant gloves
be very careful

tape up facets you are not currently rubbing
you'd hate to blur transition lines between surfaces

that's all i can think of
hth
 
What the other guys have said.

Ti Ni is not usually very thick, so the finish under the coating is likely to be reasonably fine that you won't run into too much work if you're interested. I mention this 'cos I did exactly the same thing years ago with a black epoxy coated Ontario knife and the grind on the steel looked like a bare 60grit and was an absolute bastard to hand rub. Could never get all the deep gouge marks out.

Also, its a folder, right ? Be careful that if hand rubbing all over the blade, you could end up altering the thickness, which might affect the lockup and create side to side play because of changes in the pivot area or at least make it open roughly.

Just a couple of extra ideas. Jason.
 
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